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Trying to button up ball joint set #5 :mad:.



Since my warranty ran out, I've been using Napa NCP ball joints. The current set lasted 1 year and 6 months :{.



I tried Moog this time however I'm having trouble with the Moog uppers #K7460. The lower joints pressed in as usual. The uppers literally fall into place without the need of a press. I know this fitment isn't correct and completely unsafe. I tried the other upper and it too falls into place; not good. I guess there is a possibility that the Moog joints I received are boxed improperly but what are the chances of getting 2 wrong parts in 2 boxes??



The only noticeable difference between the Moog and NCP's is the lack of knurling on the Moog body. While poking around Dynatrac's website, I noticed they make an additional special ball joint with knurling. Supposedly, the knurled joint is to make of the difference for those of us who have been using non OEM knurled joints previously. It sounds to me like knurled ball joints are in fact opening up the yokes holes in the housing causing damage.



Here's the tech bulletin from Dynatrac: http://www.dynatrac.com/products/freespin-dodge/images/DynatracServiceBulletin.pdf



Anyone else have some input on this? My truck is down and out for the weekend but I need it up and running by Tuesday; time to haul my kids critters to the fair!
 
A local garage I use is sold on Dynatrac and Carli bj's. They've installed dozens of sets. The knurled version might be the way to go.
 
If you are on BJ set #5 that is part of the problem, the axle housing itself is worn out. You have maybe 2 or 3 changes of BJ's and then the holes are just going to stretch and wear. No way you should be changing that many times, should have gone to Dynatrac or Carli's long ago.

The knurled BJ's are problem solvers just for that issue when the press fit is no longer tight enough to hold the OE size, but, when you put them in a good axle stock sizes will no longer fit. If you can get the Dyntrac's with knurling that will be your best bet, otherwise you need a different axle housing.

Are the lowers usffering the same fate? Oversized holes or did they not have the knurled units in them? Any time one sees a splined or knurled base on these BJ's you should mic the new and old to make sure the wrong parts were not provided.
 
The wrong part in the wrong box thought got debunked this morning.

The Moog upper (no knurling) mic @ 1. 89". The NCP upper (w/ knurling) mic @ 1. 9.

BUT,... ... ... both Moog and NCP lower ball joints have knurling's. Why knurl the lower but not the top??

NO way in H E double hockey sticks will I pay $800 bucks for ball joints! Plus, some customers have had problems with Dynatrac and Carli's so it makes absolutely no sense to pay $800 for ball joints that will fail at some point. Also, Napa isn't going anywhere anytime soon and Lord only knows how long Dyna or Carli will be around. What good is a lifetime warranty if the company no longer exists? I can replace these cheapo's all day, every day for a lifetime under warranty. Only takes me about 30 minutes per side now :D.

$800 would be of more benefit if spent towards having a custom front axle made from Curry or Diamond.
 
The wrong part in the wrong box thought got debunked this morning.



The Moog upper (no knurling) mic @ 1. 89". The NCP upper (w/ knurling) mic @ 1. 9.



BUT,... ... ... both Moog and NCP lower ball joints have knurling's. Why knurl the lower but not the top??



NO way in H E double hockey sticks will I pay $800 bucks for ball joints! Plus, some customers have had problems with Dynatrac and Carli's so it makes absolutely no sense to pay $800 for ball joints that will fail at some point. Also, Napa isn't going anywhere anytime soon and Lord only knows how long Dyna or Carli will be around. What good is a lifetime warranty if the company no longer exists? I can replace these cheapo's all day, every day for a lifetime under warranty. Only takes me about 30 minutes per side now :D.



$800 would be of more benefit if spent towards having a custom front axle made from Curry or Diamond.
 
I sprung for the Carli's and am glad I did. I should never have to remove the bodies, thus wearing out my housing, since they are rebuildable. I should also be able to rebuild them for free, with the lifetime warranty - in the off chance they should ever wear out.

How much did you save if you have to replace the axle housing?
 
The wrong part in the wrong box thought got debunked this morning.



The Moog upper (no knurling) mic @ 1. 89". The NCP upper (w/ knurling) mic @ 1. 9.



BUT,... ... ... both Moog and NCP lower ball joints have knurling's. Why knurl the lower but not the top??



NO way in H E double hockey sticks will I pay $800 bucks for ball joints! Plus, some customers have had problems with Dynatrac and Carli's so it makes absolutely no sense to pay $800 for ball joints that will fail at some point. Also, Napa isn't going anywhere anytime soon and Lord only knows how long Dyna or Carli will be around. What good is a lifetime warranty if the company no longer exists? I can replace these cheapo's all day, every day for a lifetime under warranty. Only takes me about 30 minutes per side now :D.



$800 would be of more benefit if spent towards having a custom front axle made from Curry or Diamond.



I put the Carli joints in my 03, it was money well spent. The old adage you get what you pay for held true in this case.
 
Sure sounds like that lifetime warranty is paying off!!

Since your axle housing sounds worn out from replacing crappy joints too often I would say you are money behind buying a new axle housing.

Dynatrac's are not $800, I paid just over $600 and are once and done for 2-3x the OEM life.
 
big tires and lift kit? I have 180k on original joints in my 2004 and they are still good. Well before 5 sets is time to seek the source of the recurring problem.
 
big tires and lift kit? I have 180k on original joints in my 2004 and they are still good. Well before 5 sets is time to seek the source of the recurring problem.

Wow, that's impressive. I made it to 85K with OEM or close to OEM size, and my dad made it to 95K with the same tires.

Thou road surface has a lot to do with it I would guess. I spend a lot of time on dirt roads with over 5K on the front axle.
 
My truck went 180k on the lowers before they were too far gone and starting showing tire wear. Two sets of OE uppers in that same time frame. Pretty sure they would have been about 1/2 that on rough gravel roads. Changing BJ's is my least favorite job, I would not even consider doing it more than twice on a single truck or something would change. The cost for my time is well worth the $600-800 for DynaTracs or Carli's, if one was hiring that done it would be overly expensive. Lifetime warranty or not, junk is junk and the bulk of the NAPA line anymore is NOT suited to these heavy trucks that get used hard.
 
That makes sense. My lowers were fine, it was the uppers that were going. My right upper starting showing signs of needing to be replaced around 55K miles. I was in the once and done mindset, so all 4 got swapped out and shouldn't have to be touched for a very long time, if ever.
 
Well, you should be dam n good at replacing them by now. Couple of hours ought to do it. :D

Try (1. 5) hours for both left and right. Pretty easy when a guy has the right tools for the job. Okay,... . I pay another dude for alignment.

To me, buying Carli's or Dyna's for the AAM is just a bigger, more expensive band aid for a poor design. Whether I buy the big band aid ball joints or take a trip back to NAPA, the front end has to be disassembled regardless to properly replace or rebuild either version.
 
I made it close to 170K on my OEM's, mostly highway. They were worn, but you could not tell it by my tire wear or by the way the truck handled. I could have left them alone but I was going to put on new tires and figured it was time to tighten things up, so out they came.

That was one of the worst jobs I have done in a long time as the bearing units were welded in with rust. I had to cut the king pins and remove the whole knuckle to press the hubs out. After that, it was cake. Funny thing is the much maligned hubs were is great shape, so back in they went; after a generous coating of anti-seize...
 
Try (1. 5) hours for both left and right. Pretty easy when a guy has the right tools for the job. Okay,... . I pay another dude for alignment.



To me, buying Carli's or Dyna's for the AAM is just a bigger, more expensive band aid for a poor design. Whether I buy the big band aid ball joints or take a trip back to NAPA, the front end has to be disassembled regardless to properly replace or rebuild either version.
You missed your calling. Charging book for labor and only taking 1. 5 hrs could net you a handsome reward.
 
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