Here I am

Time for ball joints and more?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Gear shift ball top, Ram hood emblem

Military style truck bed conversion

Status
Not open for further replies.
The problem with that thinking is the current offering parts is frequently substandard to the OE. If it ain't broke don't fix it has a lot of meaning here.
 
The problem with that thinking is the current offering parts is frequently substandard to the OE. If it ain't broke don't fix it has a lot of meaning here.

I Agree if it ain't broke don't fix it, I had the death Wobble and there was not one item that I could put my finger on that told me that is what was causing it, even took it to a trusted mechanic and he as well said the same thing. There are hundreds of post from people with the death Wobble and what fixed one truck didn't fix the other. That's why I opted to replace it all.
 
If you're doing ball joints, might as well do the wheel bearings. When pulling the axles for the ball joints I had one of my seals in the front diff start weeping. The axles have to be slid in and out of these seals, obviously one cracked. That lead to chasing the seal in the diff and if your in there might as well get the pinion seal as well. Those are the 4 components I would look at when taking the axle down far enough to get to the ball joints.

Its the same thing with a water pump, if everythings coming off, might as well do the 2 hoses the serpentine belt and tensioner pully as well. They're cheap preventative maintenance. Draining the coolent leads to popping the radiator hoses at the same time to avoid draining/changing the fluid again for a cracked hose.

http://lorenzindustries.com/products_ball-joints.html

We carry the Fox and Bilstein stabelizer but like the other guys said, if thats not broken, then no need for a new one. It's not saving you any labor by doing it now like the other components will.
 
Hmmm, it's working for me?...


image.jpg


image.jpg
 
Do you like the DynaTrac ball joints? I have not made up my mind on brand yet (except no Moog!)......I had been thinking of going with Carli.
Given some of the comments in above threads, I am likely going to shell out the money for the SpynTec hub conversion kit and then I'll have new hubs and wheel bearings.
My tie rod ends and drag link bushings all seem nice and tight, so I am not planning on replacing those items. I will put on a new Bilstein steering damper, though.
 
Tried it again and it's good.
Can we compare the different ball joints? Construction, features, etc? Between these premium joints?
 
I just did my axle U-joints and hub bearings this weekend and had all the same thoughts you are grappling with. Should I do a freespin kit? Should I do a set of Carli/Dyna Trac ball joints? Should I do (insert upgrade here)? If you are doing the work yourself, then I'd only fix the items that are worn. I say that because once you have the hub bearings out once and they survive the removal process, then liberally apply some anti-seize and the next time is much easier. My axle joints were shot and making loud noises, so they got swapped out with new Spicer units (non greasable, super sealed OEM type). The hub bearings were kinda questionable, and I wanted a free spin kit badly, but found timken replacements locally for $115 each. I couldn't justify the freespin kit at almost 7x the cost ($1600) so I stayed with a quality timken hub bearing. I don't have any odd tire wear, I'm stock ride height, steering is good so I left the ball joints alone too. when the time comes, I'll spring for the Carli/Dyna Tracs, but these front ends are so sensitive I didn't want to upset something that is currently tracking nicely.

Now if you are paying for someone else to do it, then it gets tricky, unless they are willing to work with you on the labor. Or if you are on the road for long stretches and far from home, that changes the thinking as well.

my 38 cents
 
Thanks, Chris.
I won't be doing the work myself and I will be on the road a long way from home pulling a 28 ft trailer for most of the summer.....so, I am leaning towards the Dynatrac ball joints and the Dynatrac hub conversion kit. I have checked the tie rod ends and the track bar bushings and all appears OK with them. But..., my shop told me the ball joints are ready to be replaced and if I have to do those, then I have to think about the hubs, too. So, instead of putting oem hubs back in, I would rather put n the conversion kit and have serviceable bearings for not a whole lot more expense.
Jim
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top