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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) More discussion of the Connector tube o-rings

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I can't quite figure out this 24v fuel system, seems really complicated to me. I guess if the fuel tank was above the injector pump level there would not ever be a drain back issue. I guess the Ford Model T and farm tractors of the day knew that:)

Nick
 
Yes on skid plate. If you can see in pics my trans/t case skid plate is off. My buddies and i are working up a skid plate that will cover that entire area frame rail to rail. Im going to add an auxiliary trans cooler on the adjacent fram rail. 4x4in out in the sierra nevada mountians here in CA I beat my truck hard on trails going out camping and sometimes work. The faster you go the smoother the ride! Im very active out there and have never had any problems. Heres some more pics to show how nice it tucks up close to the cross member like KATOOM was saying.
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Anyways....back to the matter at hand.
Im very interested in finding out where you losing prime. My moneys on the can. My can would never seal up correctly even with a new oring after changing fuel filter. The cap is plastic and i think get warped from many heat cycles. Theres also a fuel heater plug on that thing that can be finicky.
I also was losing prime from a raptor lift pump mounting bolt that was too long and slightly cracking in to the pump housing on the inside. Again there was no sign of fuel leakage. I only noticed when i cracked the bolt loose and then fuel came out.

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if it is the canister ill mail you my old one to experiment with. The housing is good. Has a new drain valve. Both the heater and water sensor are still in it as well.
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Sam, I'd like to have that canister. Let me know what the shipping is and I'll pay that + $10 for your trouble. I appreciate the offer more than you can know.
 
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I got it partially figured out, but not completely. Truck can sit now for several hours and fire right up, but overnight it leaks down slightly.....takes about 3 or 4 seconds of cranking to start. The problem was
the valve on the canister. When I redid the screw holes I had to shorten the screws I bought. They held, it seemed, the valve on tightly. Tight enough I couldn't wiggle it, and tight enough there was no fuel
leak. Unfortunately, there was still an air leak. I removed the canister and then the valve, and shortened the screws another couple of threads...that fixed that part of the problem.
When checking the canister for an air leak....if you use a clear hose like did, on the outlet of the canister, and bleed that air out of that hose, and then close off the end, the canister has to be lying on it's side to show the air leak. You want a straight shot from the closed end of the hose, through the canister, and on to the fuel tank. The inlet to the canister can't be higher than the outlet end where the
clear hose is connected. Hope that makes sense. I did that check first and had considerable air leaking into the closed end of the hose, That showed me there was an air leak in the fuel delivery system.
Then I connected a length of clear hose to the outlet of the lift pump, and did the same test......no air, so I knew the problem was between the outlet of the filter canister and the lift pump. Since I had done that earlier work on the mounting holes for the valve, I just assumed there was still something wrong there, and there was! Now, I still have something leaking air.....could be the cap on the canister as
Samsonite said. Once I have that old canister of his, I'm going to make a new aluminum cap for mine, assuming I have the correct thread pitch available on my old South Bend lathe. I'll be surprised if I
don't.
I'd like to thank everybody that contributed to this discussion through several threads.....I couldn't have done it alone. I'll keep you all updated as things progress.
Jim
 
Yes on skid plate. If you can see in pics my trans/t case skid plate is off. My buddies and i are working up a skid plate that will cover that entire area frame rail to rail. Im going to add an auxiliary trans cooler on the adjacent fram rail. 4x4in out in the sierra nevada mountians here in CA I beat my truck hard on trails going out camping and sometimes work. The faster you go the smoother the ride! Im very active out there and have never had any problems. Heres some more pics to show how nice it tucks up close to the cross member like KATOOM was saying.View attachment 97859View attachment 97860View attachment 97861

Anyways....back to the matter at hand.
Im very interested in finding out where you losing prime. My moneys on the can. My can would never seal up correctly even with a new oring after changing fuel filter. The cap is plastic and i think get warped from many heat cycles. Theres also a fuel heater plug on that thing that can be finicky.
I also was losing prime from a raptor lift pump mounting bolt that was too long and slightly cracking in to the pump housing on the inside. Again there was no sign of fuel leakage. I only noticed when i cracked the bolt loose and then fuel came out.
Yup...pretty nice setup, and should be fairly simple to rig up a skidplate to protect it. When i was a kid, I lived in Simi valley. used to go up to the east side of the Sierras on family vacations. Lundy Lake,
June Lake, Shasta Lake...all that country. I still get through Bishop now and then.
Jim
 
I pulled the filter today and mounted the cap in the lathe. No way to check the warpage, if any. There are no machined surfaces to use as a reference. The only way would be to make a large "nut" for the
cap, and use that as a reference surface to be sure the cap was mounted square to the threads. Then a dial indicator to check the o-ring lip for warp. I imagine these caps are simply injection-molded with
the treads molded in. I may try making a nut, and checking the cap at some point. The threads are 12/inch. Diameter is 4.363" on mine.
Jim
 
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