more pictures of dream garage

[TowPro]

Just got steel delivered. Here is some more pictures



In one you can see how we poured concrete (and re-bar) into some of the front wall holes to help stop it from cracking.



The steel is 6. 5" x 12", no columns in the middle of this garage



Dream Garage



This weekend I hope to finish those couple solid cap block you can see missing, then finish the 4" x 6" wood frame which is wall mounts on, plus its the outer form for the concrete for the top floor. Then comes the fun part. I would much rather be building wood walls then block walls.

 

[rmrc]

A Real Garage!

That looks like one "Hell of a GREAT GARAGE"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



In the house we just built, I had them make my garage capable of holding 4 vehicles, so I can really appreciate what you doing!!!



To bad I don't live closer. If I did, I'd be happy to give you a hand. Then again, maybe you wouldn't want too much help because it would take away some of your "FUN"!!!



Keep those pictures comming as it progresses!!



Enjoy!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[TPCDrafting]

It looks like it's coming along nicely. I'm curious as to what the deck gauge is? Is this going to be a composite beam-deck-slab system? That is, are there going to be headed anchor studs welded (they look almost like a rivit head) through the deck into the beams? This would ultimatly anchor the slab to the deck and beams making it "one" or composite. I'm just curious, it works both ways, composite and non-composite. I used to detail a lot of steel frame construction with slabs on top. I have also done quite a few garages this way. It works out very nice. I've even done garages with wood frame construction. Foundation walls to the top, then using wood I-joists (14" tji pro 550's) spaced at 12" o. c. with 2-layers of 3/4" ply, the top layer being pressure treated. Both ways work, your way likely better. I did one a few years back with 11 7/8" tji's at 12" O. C. W/ 2 layers of 3/4" ply. There is a column and center beam underneath. The guy parks 2 powerstrokers on it. He turned the underside into a mother-in-law suite. He said he didn't totally mind if it caved in.

 

[TowPro]

Being as I am not an Engineer, but have a buddy who is one (and has been answering a lot of questions when I designed this) I am glad you threw those terms in here. Now I know what they mean!



Anyway, I was planing on using either 1/4" or 3/8" bolts with washers, then drill and tap them into the steel beams to hold the 18 gauge pan in place. I guess that makes it a composite beam-deck-slap? how often would you place these bolts across the beams?



Once I have the pan ready, its time for concrete.

The concrete will have fiber in it, plus the HD wire fabric at 4" thick (5" where the pan has its ribs)



Not sure how I want to finish it. I plan to paint both floors, and all the paint I look at says to etch the floor if its machine troweled.





I think I will float it, then do just enough hand troweling to remove the lines, place 3/4" deep cuts into it to break it up into 6 sections, then cover it with plastic. Then after around 30 days (and once the roof is on) I will paint it. This float/hand troweling should leave it rough enough for the paint to grab onto without etching it. Then the paint will self level, making it smooth.



Besides, the paint is cheeper then renting the power trowel and labor to run it.

Originally posted by TPCDrafting

It looks like it's coming along nicely. I'm curious as to what the deck gauge is? Is this going to be a composite beam-deck-slab system? That is, are there going to be headed anchor studs welded (they look almost like a rivit head) through the deck into the beams? This would ultimately anchor the slab to the deck and beams making it "one" or composite. I'm just curious, it works both ways, composite and non-composite.

 

[TPCDrafting]

I would ask your engineer on the spacing of the headed anchor studs. There is a calculation for that, not necessarily a SWAG. Also, he should suggest welding them down rather than drilling though the flange of the beam.



One thing you might look at before painting is if the fiber hairs are sticking up out of the slab. They usually are, I read once about a large building being constructed of a slab floor and "tilt-up" constructed walls. That's where they pour the floor, then after it cures, pour the walls on the floor, then tilt them up into place. Well the contractors were new to fiber-mesh. The fibers were sticking up out of the slab and the new poured wall actually bonded to the floor. They had to tear both out and start over. Anyway, I might suggest taking a brush burner tip on a propane torch and burn off the hairs before painting. It'll give you a nice finished look to the floor.

 

[TowPro]

Thanks for the tip on the fiber sticking out of the floor, I will watch for that before painting.



This morning I did a lot of research on the composite floors. I see how there doing it, spacing of anchors, etc.



My original design (that the engineer reviewed) did not have these anchors, thats probably why they have spanning under 5' between the 12" steel. Looking at all the info I found, seems they are able to do 2X the spans I am doing by using the composite floor.



I will check out the cost of finding a welder, the time, and cost of anchors to see if I want to do this. The amount of steel I have underneath again was designed to hold the weight not using a composite floor, so I might have to stick with that design.



I still think I might hold the floor pan in place by drilling and tapping the steel for some 1/4" pan screws about 1 every foot. All I have is a small wire feed welder and it don't have enough power to get the 1/4" steel hot enough to weld the 18 gauge pan to it.

 

[TPCDrafting]

Your right, if the floor is designed non-composite, then stick with it. I was just curious which way you had it designed. Small screws, even self tappers should be enough to hold the deck down, spaced according to your engineer's specs.



Just a side note, in the steel fab shops I have seen a tool that holds the headed anchor stud on the beam and puts a clean weld all the way around it. Does it in about 2 seconds too! They feed in a bunch of H. A. S. and plug in the spacing over the beam and hit go. CNC type stuff has always intruiged me. These were for bridge type beams where the deck butts up to the HAS's rather than they being welded through the deck.

 

[TowPro]

Got 13 yards of concrete coming tomorrow



This is for the roof of the bottom garage, or is it the floor of the top garage



4000 psi with fiber.



Then Saturday I get to backfill and plant grass. Can't wait to get that hole around the garage filled.



I will try to remember to take some more pictures.