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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) More problems setting the timing...help

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Well, I have been trying to get my timing set on and off for 3 weeks now. It has just been setting in my shop til I have time to get to it. Well, first off I sheered the TDC pin off. No biggie, I got a guy to make me another one out of Billet Aluminum, so I won't have that problem anymore.



Next thing I did was borrow the Miller timing kit, 6860 I believe the kit # is. Did I all was suppose to do like pull the delivery valve holder out, take out the little cylinder and then the little copper washer. Then I screwed the dial indicator holder where the delivery valve holder was, and screwd it finger tight.



Now the thing I am lost on, the dial indicator that the inscructions say to use is Miller #5859. On the back of the dial indicator it says 6860. WHY... . WHY does it say use Miller kit #6860 and then use the indicator #6859????? I am very lost there, cause the #6860 indicator does not have a shaft long enough to reach through the indicator holder. Now there is an extension with the #6860 kit, but then it is too dang long.



Someone help, I am lost. If I can get past this deal, I can take it from there.



Appreciate any help,

JD
 
Can't answer on the #s of the indicator,but you need to remove the delivery valve for that extension to work. The reason for the plastic pin is to not cause any damage when you forget to pull it out at the appropriate time;)



Bob
 
I have the same kit with the same numbers. No problem at all doing the timing. That's the correct dial indicator. Are you sure you followed the instructions?
 
Originally posted by Joe G.

I have the same kit with the same numbers. No problem at all doing the timing. That's the correct dial indicator. Are you sure you followed the instructions?



Yep, read them 46 times so far. Something isn't getting through my head clear. Do I use the dial indicator extension that comes in the kit? I put the extension on and put it back in the delivery valve. The indicator will go to like 15mm or so before I can use the screw on the indicator holder that is screwed down to hold the indicator in place.
 
Will someone that has set the timing by plunger lift method before please call me and help me out? Maybe I can explain what I am doing better on the phone.



Thanks,



Justin

903-720-2979 cell
 
It will turn over a few times when it is installed. Count the number of times it turns over. Then take it out and see if it will turn over more times than that just by pushing up the plunger by hand. You may be ok afterall.
 
Originally posted by Joe G.

It will turn over a few times when it is installed. Count the number of times it turns over. Then take it out and see if it will turn over more times than that just by pushing up the plunger by hand. You may be ok afterall.





OK, maybe I got it here. In the instructions, it says to set it up between 7. 0 and 9. 0mm. I couldn't do that. I had to set it up to 20. 0mm to set the indicator to the holder. Then I turned the crank counterclockwise from TDC on #1 and it stopped at 14. 6mm. I subracted the two and came up with 5. 4mm which is 11* timing.



I guess thats it. Will go to advance it now. Maybe I can get it.



Justin
 
The initial setting of 7. 0 to 9. 0 is to insure that there is enough travel in the plunger so that it will follow the injector cam to the bottom of the lobe. My service manual says that after you have it set to "rotate the engine in the direction opposite normal direction of engine rotation 1/4 turn or until you see the dial indicator reading stop dropping. This is the inner base circle of the injection pump cam. Zero the indicator and note the reading on the inner dial. " The initial setting can be anything that is enough to allow the plunger to follow the cam to the bottom. Then you have to ZERO the indicator dial and note where the inner needle is (you can't zero it). This gives you the starting point to measure lift when the engine is rotated to TDC. No math needed. Just count the ticks the inner dial moved. That's the mm part. The big dial needle points to the fraction of mm.



I have a note in my manual where I say that the 7. 0 to 9. 0 setting is not possible. I used 13 and it worked fine.
 
OK, I got the thing running. It idles perfect now, since I readjusted the govenor springs.



I timing seems to be at 16. 5*. I did set it up for 18*, but after I tightened the nut to 144ft lb. and then rechecked it, it had slipped down to that, but that will be enough for now.



The truck is still popping when I goose it from 2,500rpm, which it way better then it did before. I think it is the dang 4' glasspack that has been under the truck for God knows how long. I just bought the truck a couple months ago. I will take it off to see if it still pops.



Justin
 
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