Most 2013 and some 2014 NO fuel heater engaged

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

NMEA or other Interface to Nav?

2013 2500 Laramie Backup Camera Issue

Status
Not open for further replies.
Got my truck back yesterday. I was the first one for my area, dealer was convinced that it was simply a fuel problem until I showed them the Star letter and they checked it out. Oh well the next person with this problem in Peoria will get their's fixed quicker. They also updated the Transmission, seat memory & Radio. Thank you for the Star case number sag2
 
I do not think that they were replaced (not listed on the invoice ) , I had told them that both filters were replaced 2 weeks ago (got mine fron Geno's) when it happened the first time. I was sure that I had gotten either bad fuel (while traveling) or my normal fuel stop (Mobil near the house, they do go through a lot of diesel and I have been filling all 3 diesels there since the station was built) was not quite ready for the cold. I still think that my fuel was borderline ready for the cold, and if the trucks still had only the Engine mounted filter (with a heater that works) I would not have had any problems.
This issue could easily become a saftey issue, it will allow you to travel 10 miles before you have any noticable problems and then you lose power and speed very quickly , luckily I was in town at stop lights very close to work when it all went to ****.
 
Sounds like your good to go, If the filters plug again they must be replaced. In MN the biodiesel creates problem with the media, years 2/3 back we just warmed the filters, the new media fails and %6*@ get plugged much easier the 2nd time.
 
Thank you for the heads up.
When I changed filters at the first of December (at 7,500 miles), I found the the engine filter was like new (the media was still cream colored, but I still replaced it), then on the rear frame mounted filter I did open up the sealed canister and it was black but nothing obviously clogged,growing or other.
Does anyone know what the rear fuel filter micron rating is?
 
My guess is 10MIC @ 98% - 7MIC @ 75% on 1st Pass at 8psi. I am making calls to change the entire rating system...its completely mis-leading in some cases out right deceiving, the convention for the industry meets in NW next month.

The people I have talk to in the Gov agree with me the entire ratings game is flawed....I've tried to get the manufacture(s) to change the way they use the rating systems, I don't like using the Gov to change anything but its the only avenue that can possibly punch a hole thru the worthless system in use today. Racor and 1 or 2 other companies are the only ones publishing correct ratings (Filter labels)
 
? I'm sorry but I fail to see the logic of have both the primary and secondary filters at the same filtration level. If this is truly the case, then we will rarely have to change the engine mounted (secondary filter).
 
I incorporated TRUE 3MIC filter in the system (when I installed the auxiliary system) and the factory intank pump couldn't pee thru it, again again I will mention this IF THESE FILTER(S) DID WHAT THEY CLAIM 90% of HPCR seller would be out of business.80% 0f the time I see contamination is relate to water, but my Bank account increase is liking the system now in place.MY 2003 with 147K has 76ML back leakage Rate, that's equal to Virgin/New rates, keep in mind that truck BD/Bank stacked for 8 years.

The 2013 system is improved and in most cases is adequate, WHY would I install auxiliary True 3MIC with Bypass 10MIC if I thought for a micro second that the factory setup is enough.

If I did not have the auxiliary system in place the 1st time the factory system failed, it would have needed to be towed, the intank pump will fail ....its only time that separates its failing. Now the intank pump must push thru 2 filters, Yes the GP produces 25HG but as soon as the frame mounted filter gets dirty it NO help form the GP to Tank, the system is is going to have some effect on the intank pump life.

1 other side point NEVER run your tank below 1/4 in fall and winter and try to keep 1/3 or more in the hot summer months, the hot fuel returning form CP3/Injectors will shorten the intank pump life.
 
"1 other side point NEVER run your tank below 1/4 in fall and winter and try to keep 1/3 or more in the hot summer months, the hot fuel returning form CP3/Injectors will shorten the intank pump life."

I fully agree with that, and preach it to my friends. Do not run your fuel tank below 1/4 (gas or diesel) on a regular basis, the fuel in the tank is cooling the pump so it will last longer.
 
CEppinger.. the more passes (filters) the cleaner the Fuel, if fuel was to travel 2 passes thru the factory setup, its going to be very clean. Its always the same statement ,I just fill up and the truck started to run poorly,BC the 1st pass some contaminates made thru the filter(s) and damages the HP component's. the 6.7 HP system returns about 1L PM @ 1000RPMS this rate includes Pump & injector returns.
 
This is from the 2013 new model features.
This new filter features a spin-on replaceable filter element that offers a 4-micron filtration rating. It also features its own dedicated water-in-fuel (WIF) sensor as well as its own fuel heater to prevent gelling in cold weather.
In addition to the new frame-mounted filter, the engine-mounted filter has been improved and now provides 3-micron protection for the fuel system (Fig. 22.)
The 3-micron performance is achieved through new nano technology filter media.
The filter also features a new hydrophobic screen to improve water stripping capability.
The 2013.5 6.7-liter Ram features a fuel filter change interval of 24,000 km (15,000 mi.) for both the frame-mounted and engine-mounted filters. When the fuel filter change interval is reached, the customer will receive a maintenance reminder in the EVIC (Fig. 23), if equipped with a premium cluster.
Another change to the engine-mounted filter is a new feature that prevents the engine from running if a filter is not present. This “no filter, no run” feature uses a check ball that blocks fuel flow (Fig. 24) unless a filter with a special pin is present to unseat the ball and prevent it from blocking flow.
 
I like the statement "improve water stripping capability" TRUE Aqua-Zorb (many companies make these) filters will plugged and stop flow instantly unfortunately these Type of filters are Illegal for direct injection systems (filter fuel for combustion) that's Why I always promote Auxiliary filtering system/support Water will NEVER penetrate these filters, they don't improve water stripping, they OUT RIGHT stop it.
 
Bump....


During our recent 1200 mile haul from KC to SLC we crossed Rockies on I70 and at the upper elevations the temps were -5F and engine started cutting out / sputtering. I thought it was caused by typical crappy backwoods Kansas fuel no matter I fill up at Love's truck stops.

Arrived to Utah and started googling and found this thread, went to local dealer and my frame mounted filterhead heating was dead so they ordered new head assembly. I'm not sure if the activation was off or was it really dead but as the frame filters are on backorder, they ordered whole assembly so they for sure would get the filter as well...
 
I have 2013 built in august have had gel 4 times now and they just told me Monday about this problem I take it to the dealer they tell the filter is not warranty after a bit of arguing they dropped that charge since I have purchased 200 dollars worth of them. They told me they did the program up dates and you don't need to change the rear filter that is only for water?
I go start it to me is does not seem right but drive it home leave it out last night only got down to 5 degree F. I started it let it this morning warm up to 140 degrees backed up put it in drive once again it fell on it face.
So I read this thread I figure if I get under the truck with a temp gun I should be able to test the lines the filter housing for temp change ? I put it a heated building it is 35 degrees in there I check the temp on the lines and filter housing with the key on and the motor off not temp change after 2-3 minutes lines housing ect never changed temp? I would think if it was working something would have started warming up? The one on the motor was at 50 F and it never changed temp either. Is this a method to check it or not? I also would like to know about the rear filter should it have been changed out or not?
 
Because it's supposed to be really cold here tonight and tomorrow with some pretty nasty wind chill (at least for central Maryland), I took mine to the dealer this afternoon to have it checked and sure enough, I had to have that heater turned on as well. According to the repair receipt, this issue has a TSB assigned to it, TSB 14-005-13. I also inquired about the transmission/e-brake update that Ed Dankievitch mentioned in another thread, but there were none (at least for my truck). However, they did perform a reflash for the ABS, TSB 08-001-14. I didn't get a whole of of info on this one, so if anyone knows the specifics on this please post it. They also performed a radio update per RRT 13-071 that addresses a number of issues for the RA3/RA4 and equivalent radios. I was experiencing some of these, so it was a good thing. This RRT updates the UConnect software to version 13.48.3. Here is a link to the RRT for anyone who is interested: http://www.wk2jeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wk2_0804913e.pdf
 
Last edited:
I a few weeks ago I just came thru -35F to -43F up the Yukon and into Alaska, there of course all fuel was #1 this time of year.

For those not running fuel mixed for low temps, wouldn't it be much better to just use some anti-gelling additive such as Power Service, etc.

Guess I don't understand how a second heater at the back filter would matter much if the entire tank is already gelled.
 
The fuel clouds up (Wax crystals) these small particles are trapped in the Filter media, even -40 artic diesel will cloud up so you need some type of heat element to stop the formation of the waxing. Once the media is inundated it will degrade and plug itself (filter).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top