most bang for the buck

[roadking]

talked my son into buying a 92 td w\auto trans. , it needs more power, whats cheaper a torque plate or injectors? i think the old owner changed the turbo ,were to buy?

 

[Paychk]

Torque plate doesn't apply to the 1st Gen, that leaves injectors. You may want to read the stickies about fuel pump tweaks first.

 

[LEggers]

Is it a intercooled truck or non-intercooled truck.

Get a set of gauges and then start the below.

I would put money down on a good set of injectors first then add a exhaust housing later.

 

[CDegner]

Is it a intercooled truck or non-intercooled truck.

Get a set of gauges and then start the below.

I would put money down on a good set of injectors first then add a exhaust housing later.

If it's a 92, It's intercooled. I would go the other way around. it you added injector first, you might end up with some serious smoke issues. That 21cm housing just doens't allow the turbo to move much air. A 16cm housing, followed by a set of 190 injectors from PDR (185's if you could find tham at a reasonable price ) and you will have a rig that can start giving the transmission fits. :-laf



Qualifier, The injectors should only be added after a pyro is installed. I would definitely suggest a transmission temp gauge as well for that auto.



Carl

 

[LEggers]

I would go the other way around. it you added injector first, you might end up with some serious smoke issues. That 21cm housing just doens't allow the turbo to move much air. A 16cm housing, followed by a set of 190 injectors from PDR (185's if you could find tham at a reasonable price ) and you will have a rig that can start giving the transmission fits. :-laf



Qualifier, The injectors should only be added after a pyro is installed. I would definitely suggest a transmission temp gauge as well for that auto.



Carl

He is looking for bang for the buck the exhaust housing is not going to do much in the HP department thats why I went with the injectors before the housing.

Smoke will only be there if he kicks it hard in the but off the line.

 

[Philip]

That 92 should have a 18cm housing on it. The injectors would give him more to start with. Then a 16cm housing if he doesn't tow with it.

 

[CDegner]

That 92 should have a 18cm housing on it. The injectors would give him more to start with. Then a 16cm housing if he doesn't tow with it.

I may be wrong (wouldn't be the first time, won't be the last) but I thought the 91. 5 and 92 had the 21. In 93 they went to the 18. 5.



With the housing, you can turn the pump up with the stock injectors and make some pretty decent HP. Put in PODs or soemthing similiar with a stock turbo & housing and it is gonna smoke like hades. On top of that, EGT's can quickly get out of control without adequate airflow. $150 or $400. Bang for the buck, I'd still go with the housing.



Carl

 

[LEggers]

I may be wrong (wouldn't be the first time, won't be the last) but I thought the 91. 5 and 92 had the 21. In 93 they went to the 18. 5.



With the housing, you can turn the pump up with the stock injectors and make some pretty decent HP. Put in PODs or soemthing similiar with a stock turbo & housing and it is gonna smoke like hades. On top of that, EGT's can quickly get out of control without adequate airflow. $150 or $400. Bang for the buck, I'd still go with the housing.



Carl

I here yah Carl..... By the way good luck on making 300 on the dyno down south.

I am still kinda knew at this stuff so I think I will listen a little bit more to what you have to say.



NWBOMBER = TLRMAN

 

[Greenleaf]

My 92 w/ 21 cm housing. The 93 models have 18cm.



GL

 

[SteveMiller]

You know my 92 had the 21 also and I put on a 12wg from a 2nd gen and really like the extra get up and go motion it gave the truck. Its true the EGT's can get a bit high when towing up the mountain but it seems getting that turbo moving is a big help no matter what size housing you get.



That and the gauges are all I've managed to do (I have a list for the future) but at least it will get out of its own way now.

 

[y-knot]

Since your son has just bought this truck, why not forget the go fast or at least faster parts and look at the obvious. It is pretty old, so I am sure there are many areas that could use some attention before you blow all your money on engine parts.

I would think getting a baseline first would be the way to go. Start with a tune-up, replace all filters, oil, and adjust the valves. Many overlook the simple stuff and miss out on it's gains. Your truck Will have many lines and hoses that are in need of replacement, do it now and be done with it. Flush the radiator while you are their and fill with good quality anti-freeze. Look over the brakes, they are probably the most important system you have to deal with. Really look at them, and replace whats needed with quality parts. The hoses are a no brainier, they should be replaced front and back.

Go Thur the electrical system, how's the battery and all the connections? Look over the lights, turning signals and brake lights. Are the headlights aimed correctly? Does all the lights have the correct bulb?

You have a automatic transmission, drain it fluid and adjust the bands, also replace the filter. Look at the rear differential oil, drain and top off with new fluid. Hows the spare tire? Check it out, and make sure you have all the right tools to fix a flat. Dose the jack work? check it all out. How about the tires and their wheels, does each wheel have the right number of lug nuts? Is the air pressure correct?

Also check the steering, the older trucks are known to have loose steering problems, this is your second most important area. How are the ball joints? Can the steering box be adjusted? Tie rods and shocks, check them all. Look over the rear leaf springs for broken leaves, this is very common.

Point is, this is a new "to you" truck, so make certain it is road worthy and safe for your son to drive. To often people want to rush out and install the go fast goodies without looking at the basics. There is plenty of time to add that stuff, believe me they will not run out of parts before you get to order. Enjoy your new truck and teach your son the right way to do things.

 

[cerberusiam]

If you want more power:



1. BHAF



2. Free flowing exhaust system



3. Pump tweaks



4. Injectors



5. Tape a pine cone to the go pedal and drive barefoot.





Even with a 21 cm housing steps 1 thru 4 will bark the turbo till dies, destroy the auto trans, consistently bald the rear tires, and find every weak piece in the drive train.



Ignore step 5 and you just get there a little sooner.



Steps 6 to ?? start costing exponential amounts, but, thats the "slippery slope" of BOMBing.

 

[bgilbert]

I second what y-knot said. My 89 was a used farm truck and I spent my first two years getting it up to snub, doing the things y-knot mentioned, before I even thought about bombing. Now I feel my truck is in decent cross country shape, time for engine parts.

 

[Philip]

I was under the impression that the 92's came with 18cm housings also. Guess I was wrong.

 

[CDegner]

I am still kinda knew at this stuff so I think I will listen a little bit more to what you have to say.



NWBOMBER = TLRMAN

Hey Lance. I knew exactly who you were! BTW, congrats on smoking all those guys at DT! Speaking up is the way we all learn. Just because my HP # is higher than yours, doesn't mean I know more. EVERYONE's opinion should be heard. Then the original poster can make his own conclusions, or ask another ? if he feels it necessary.



Hopefully see ya at a nother NW BOMBer party soon. Bob V's is the 25th!



Carl

 

[roadking]

thanks

thanks for all the replys the truck only has 80,000 miles and was well maintened buy a good freind and tdr member wayne x

 

[dpuckett]

Great advice, y-knot. I see that kind of stuff as "well- DUH" items that I check out/ get taken care of before insurance and tags. But it is a good reminder. WE sometimes get so concerned with power and MPGs and smoke that we overlook the obvious safety/ operation items.



18 vs 21cm. Everyone is right for the 92 model year. The 21 came with the 91s that were intercooled, than sales started slipping by early 92, due to the increased lag, so they went back to the 18 in mid 92; I want to say around April. The 18 made a difference in Mom's Jan 92 pickup.



If you dont do much towing, and plan to stay under 200-225 RWHP, with an auto/OD and 3. 54s, I think the 12cm take off from a 94-98 12V would be a good start after getting a baseline with the gauges. Dont even bother with the wastegate- you will need more than the 16-18pis it pops at, and you wont make more than 22-25psi with stock injectors unless you get into some wild pump tweaks. Between the gearing difference in the transmission and rear end, Mom's pickup has nearly another gear over my 4. 10s/ 5spd (3. 54x0. 69o/d vs 4. 10x0. 77o/d); and it would be much better for her lower RPM cruising and lower power output. THe 12 wasnt such a hot idea in my pickup. Or at 30+ psi, it was a little too hot.



Get the injectors pop/ spray tested. If it only has 80K, it has done a lot of sitting, allowing fuel to break down in the fuel system and possibly clog injector tips. Not that I'm knocking the truck- if you can live with it, I can, too. I'm just giving my opinion and theses. I have 200K on your son's truck, and I had 5 good injectors at 250K, after a life of towing and hauling. I prefer them run hard and used. That way, I have an excuse for BOMBs.



Daniel