Motor Oil Brands

[illflem]

Originally posted by LightmanE300

Guys, its a techical fact - verifiable through oil analysis - that pretty much any oil you're using in an 03+ non CA engine is going to be wasted changing the oil at 3k miles. There is just so much oil compared to contaminants and wear, that it's silly. Cummins oil recommendations are based on tons of testing, and are conservative if anything... Then again, some enjoy wasting their money and time changing every 3k

Even on older rigs 3k can be a waste. The conservative intervals in the manuals were based on the oils available at that time, things have changed tremendously in lube oil quality in just the last five years. Cummins sure isn't going to go back and retest older engines with newer oils just to change some wording in the manual.

Oil analysis is the only way. I've found that Delo 15w-40 is still good to go at 10k but change at 8k just to be safe.

 

[Cooker]

As typical with corportate America, the mergers and buy outs, as well as increased standards for the API, most oils are reformulated every few years. Sometimes the oil no longer even comes from the same refineries and/or the additive packages have changed. My point is just because it was bad 5 or 10 years ago, doesn't mean it is a poor choice now because it certainly isn't the same oil. Likewise, just because it was a good oil some time ago, doesn't necessarily mean that it is still the best choice.

 

[2broke2smoke]

what about the synthetic rottella at walmart?, 12$ a gallon and a fleetguard stratapore make for a reasonable oil change dollar wi$e and good protection all around i would think

 

[Dean Upson]

That's about twice as much as the regular Rotella .



Dean

 

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by 2boke2smoke

what about the synthetic rottella at walmart?, 12$ a gallon and a fleetguard stratapore make for a reasonable oil change dollar wi$e and good protection all around i would think

At that price, I suspect that it's a Group III "sorta synthetic", not a PAO Group IV oil. Not having seen the data sheets, I'm certainly willing to be corrected.



Rusty

 

[Cooker]

Originally posted by RustyJC

At that price, I suspect that it's a Group III "sorta synthetic", not a PAO Group IV oil. Not having seen the data sheets, I'm certainly willing to be corrected.

That's right, it's a Group III

 

[2broke2smoke]

fair enough ... if it seems too good to be true ...

 

[Cummins_gal]

Delo

I have a first gen with over 1/2 a million now, and I have always used straight 40 delo. Before you go tellin me that is too thick of an oil, let me explain, I live in east Texas, and we dont know what cold is here, so multiweight is not that important. The straight 40, has 1/3 of the additives 15-40 has, and is a cleaner oil as far as sludge and build up is concerned.

Now, on my 02, I use multiweight because I change it so much more often, and build up is no concern.



As far as the best oils, no contest Rotella T and Delo, it is all we will sell, and I have found, we sell about the same exact numbers of each. I have noticed though, the Stroker boys prefer Rotella, and the Cummins boys usually buy the blue.



Amanda

 

[illflem]

Amanda, is right. When you read a Cummins B manual for engines destined for warm areas outside the US they recommend straight 40w.

 

[Hohn]

It's hard to say whether Rotella or Delo is better-- they're both good oils.



Personally, I would go by engine condition. If I had a dirty engine (or an older one) I would run Rotella. If I had a newer engine that was cleaner already, I would run the Delo.



I used both Rotella and Delo when I was breaking in. Both seemed to be great, but the engine seemed to prefer Delo-- It ran a little smoother with less clatter.



Once you try the Redline, you will see just how big a difference the oil can make in the "feel" of the engine. The engine seemed to LOVE the Redline, even if my checkbook didn't!



My wife says it's weird how I can "feel" what's going on in a vehicle and the engine and transmission and such. I insist that she call me the "truck whisperer" from now on



Justin

 

[Cummins_gal]

haha

Justin,



I know what you mean, my truck is my soul mate. I can tell when something is botherin him, if he does not have the best fuel in him, when he needs his filters changed. If people dont think a Cummins has a soul... . they have never owned a couple.



Amanda

Take care of your trucks, they will take care of you



KEEP THAT OIL CLEAN, AND FRAM OFF!!!!

 

[Ramafid]

It is not so much how many miles are driven it is the amount of engine hours that are on the oil. I run 7500 miles before I change and total engine hours are between 160 and 170 . Dodge recommends under 200 hours and I think Cummins says 400 hours for non Dodge applications. It all depends if you drive highway miles or city miles.

 

[lilwilbur]

Just a thought and it may have been dicussed on here aleady, but this site: http://bobistheoilguy.com/ is an excellent source of information on all types of lubes and filters.



will

 

[Hohn]

It's important to remember that not all miles are created equal. If I were running nothing but hwy miles with no towing, I would run a dino oil and chance it every 12K.



If i did all city driving with lots of cold starts and short hauls, I would run at least a group 3 oil, and change it every 10K max.



Since the latter is closer to where I am, I run a synthetic and a medium drain interval.



Justin

 

[Big Best]

Oil

I change my filter at 3500 mi. and my oil and filter at 7000 mi.

 

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by Dl5treez

Group 3, Group 4, who cares... it all meets the same specs that are of interest to me.

And there's nothing wrong with that approach. Heck, a lot of trucks have made it well over 500,000 miles on dino oil and regular filter changes.



I think the Group 3/Group 4 discussion really is for the benefit of those looking for the last bit of protection for the Cummins.



Rusty