Motorcycle oil ?

[KPittman]

I recently bought a '99 Honda shadow A. C. E. Tourer, 1100 cc.

At the honda shop their dino. oil is $3. 99/ qt. and have a rating of sf or sg. Is there cheaper oil prices on some other brand, that is just as good or better?

Also is 4,000 miles too far to go? Also, what about synth. ?

Any advice would be greatly apprecated. Kirk Pittman, Jr.



ps, I'll need some tires before long. where's the best place to get some?

 

[lschultz]

Go to http://www.amsoil.com/ and check out there motorcycle oil 10w40 and 20w50. Its not cheaper than 3. 99 but its better oil. Become a preferred customer and get it at cost which puts it closer to the 3. 99. I have been running the 10w40 in my Kawasaki mule since its first oil change. Its a 98 model.

 

[illflem]

Should a motorcycle be broken in before changing to synthetic just like our trucks?

 

[fest3er]

Originally posted by illflem
Should a motorcycle be broken in before changing to synthetic just like our trucks?

Motorbikes should be broken in by 500-1000 miles. I had to run mine at 3K RPM or less for the first 500 miles!

Now, allow me to be a bit winded here. The first year, my bike ('95 Suksuzi DR650 dual sport) ran nicely. Then I retorqued the head and adjusted the valves (one of them had zero lash). Ever since, that bike has run like a raped ape. Except it never had enough cajones to lift the front wheel off the ground. A friend had to work it *really* hard to lift the front wheel.

This summer, I installed Amsoil in it. Now, if I am not paying attention, the motor will lift the front wheel maybe 1" off the ground if I dump the throttle in first gear at around 3K RPM. (The lifting *includes* 3"-4" of suspension extension. )

Is this due to the Amsoil (I had run Spectro in it since new)? The oil is the only thing that changed.

I dunno. Nor do I care! Whilst I often accelerate quickly, I usually try to control the 3rd derivative, to keep operation reasonably smooth (as I do in my truck). . And Amsoil will help my engine last a good deal longer.

So, if the OP wants to keep his scooter for a long time, he should put the best oil he can find or afford in it, *not* the least expensive oil. I would suggest he use a suitable synthetic; Amsoil would be nice, but any good synth would likely be adequate for most intents and purposes.

Fest3er

 

[Bigsaint]

I don't have much too add other than I'm happy to see another diesel/ biker on the site . I'm still breaking in the 12R and haven't decided if I will go with syn. oil. I like wrenching on the bike, even if it's just a oil/filter change. So far, I have been using the Kawa oil/filters. I changed the oil at 200 miles, 500, and will change it one more time before I put her down for the winter. Then I plan on 1,000 mile oil changes. Overkill but what the heck, it's only 3 qt's of oil .



Have fun and ride safe !



Scott W.

 

[Chipstien]

I run only synthetic oils in everything from my truck, dirtbike and even my chainsaw and weedeaters.

 

[Bigsaint]

Originally posted by Chipstien

I run only synthetic oils in everything from my truck, dirtbike and even my chainsaw and weedeaters.

I run Rotella T in my lawn mower



Scott W.

 

[TPCDrafting]

I have an '84 Ninja 900 with 12k miles and have been using Golden Spectro 4 20w50 (synth. blend). I don't think it's the oil, but I can get the front tire off the ground in the first 3 gears w/o ever going WOT. By then I'm going well over 100 mph and perhaps the wheel lift is partly due to my a$$ sucking up the seat!



I only ride the bike enough to change the oil once a year and I don't remember how much the oil was. I can imagine being able to ride year-round in FLA. and cost is something to consider.

 

[The patriot]

If I ran synthetic oil in my motorcycle, one change would double it's value.

1982 Honda CM 450A

Eric

 

[sdalton]

I have an Suzuki Intruder 1400, and use the cheap Suzuki oil. Because I dont drive much, but I do like to change regularly. At least 1-2 times a year. . I know that isnt much, but Amsoil is just a little too pricey.

 

[Champane Flight]

Syn

I ran a 85 Suzuki Cavalcade 10,000+ miles average per season and changed oil/filter every fall. It ran well on dino oil, but jumped three mpg on Amzoil and was much smoother. I used to change every 1500 miles on my old air cooled Harleys, Ducs, Hondas, BSAs, and Triumphs. But on watercooled bikes you can jump it up to 3000 and with synthetics even higher. I have logged over 20,000 miles on many touring years and never had a oil related problem with Amzoil.

 

[jwoelfle]

I've run Rotella T in all my V twins for many years now... and many miles. Never had a problem, although I did have one Yamaha Virago that shifted a teensy bit firmer with Rotella.



Qualifier: 5 different Viragos, all totaled ~25K miles each on Rotella, 1 Kawaskai Voyager12(inline 4) ~20K miles on Rotella before switching to Golden Spectro... it's clutch actually like Golden Spectro better.



YMMV



Jim

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I've run Golden Spectro 20w50 synthetic in all my bikes since the 80's. I ran it in all my racebikes (road racing) as well, including a 24 hr race at Willow Springs (talk about abuse!). The biggest thing you have to be careful of with oils today is that the latest spec oils can cause clutch slippage because of the additives. I've always run motorcycle specific oils because in a bike your oil has to dealing with shearing forces in the transmission as well as the normal engine operation. JMHO

 

[TPCDrafting]

Question for you seasonal riders, is it better to change the oil in the fall before hanging it up till spring, or do you change it in the spring?



Also, are there any online forums for street bikes, or even specifically ninjas?

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I do both. I change the oil in the fall and put in any cheap auto oil to store it for the winter - that get's all of the acids, etc out for the winter storage. I get the engine fully warmed up to get everything in suspension and then dump it. Put the new oil in (I don't change the filter in the fall), put stabil in the fuel tank and fill it, then go for a 20 mile or so ride. Then I use fogging oil to fog the cylinders, pull the battery, wash it, then cover it until spring. In the spring I warm the bike up fully and then dump the oil, change the filter and put in the Golden Spectro.

 

[Champane Flight]

Fall

Change oil and filter in the fall, get the oil good and hot, dump it and the filter. Once the new oil is in fire it up and let it circulate, then shut her down. I usually check or change all fluids at this time, including battery water. Hook up the battery maintainer/charger. I fire my bike up every month throughout the winter, just long enough to warm it up to operating temp. I always schedule any maint during the winter months, including tires, tune up, carb rebuild, or major rebuilds. In the spring shes ready to go!

 

[Harley152]

I run all my stuff on amsoil and ride year around (the rules here---if there's too much snow to get up the driveway---I don't go to work). During the rainy season I sometimes have to convince myself that its only WATER!!! I change oil at 3000 to 3500 miles and primary and transmission anually. I use amsoil 75-90 in the primary and no clutch problems here. 61000 on the springer, 53000 on the shovelhead, 24000 on the buell, and 16000 on the sportster.

No mechanical problems with any of them!!!



Jerry

 

[Shovelhead]

What oil are you runnin' in the Shovel?

 

[Harley152]

the shovel

Currently running synthetic 60 in the bag and 75-90 gear oil in primary and transmission---used to mix 20-50 and 75-90 in equal parts in the bag until the 60 came out with good results. No mech. problems and it starts much easier than dino--downside- she marks her spot with more authority!!!!Actually, haven't ever had to add any oil between changes, but seems to weep more from everywhere(maybe its just quicker or I'm more spoiled on the EVO's.