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Mountain / Road bike riders - Advice on getting started

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Softside Waterbeds

What have you learned.

Howdy all,



I am interested in getting into biking and wanted to ask your advice. I'll give as much info as I can to help you answer my questions.



1. I currently own nothing in the way of bikes or riding equipment - nothing.

2. I am interested mainly in exercise, not serious trail riding, marathon long distance road riding, or any sort of racing. I don't have a group of friends that I'll be riding with, just me.

3. I've never been a fan of road bikes, I have always preferred mountain bikes, or hybrid types, but no pure road bikes.

4. I will be riding probably 85% or more on pavement, with an occasional off-road ride.

5. I'm a big dude, hence the need for exercise. 6', 270 #'s.

6. I know I don't need the top of the line Trek or Cannondale, but I am not interested in the junior beginner $99 Kmart special either. Like my truck and it's BOMBs, I want to start with a good, fairly high quality product that will last me a few good solid years at least. I am thinking that with the bike, and whatever other equipment I may need/really want to get with it, I am willing to spend up to $800 - $1000 total.



I have done a little Internet research at various manufacturers websites just to get a feel for what technologies are out there. I don't think I really need a bike with full suspension, 27 gears, the latest super light weight frame or the highest end Shimano components. I have no particular preference for bike brand.



I'm asking for any advice on:

* Bike brand - good/bad brands and models - are there any I should really avoid if at all possible

* Additional equipment - the saddle is the one thing I can think of that I might be very interested in replacing, as I can't tolerate those teeny tiny little things of years past. Helmet, clothing, ?????

* Anything else you want to toss my way would be very appreciated.



Thanks,

Tom
 
Tom,

I recently made some changes to mtn bike - '90 Diamond Back/no suspension - to make it more road friendly and comfortable for me - 6'4"/260. I added a suspension seat post and one of the 'split' seats. Huge improvement for ~$50. Forget about buying the lightest weight bike - you're too big. Make sure you get a large enough frame and that the bars are high enough so you aren't bent over like a motorcycle roadracer. Personally, I would get a hardtail - suspension forks/no rear suspension - because it eliminate some of the abuse to your wrists.



My buddy - 6'3"/230 - recently bought a Specialized Sirius(sp?) and is pretty happy with it. It's a hybrid/commuter bike - no offroad - and he paid ~$700 for it.



Good luck,

Brian
 
Tom,



before you buy ride several, not all 20" frames are the same. Go to a shop and tell the salesman you want to ride for 30 minutes, or more. You will probably need to leave a license or something. But a few extra minutes on the saddle will help you make the right decision.



Depending on your definition of off road, there are several tires that make it much nicer for asphalt riding than the big mud tires.



good luck steve
 
Thanks guys

Thanks all, I am going to check out a local bike shop tonight that has a very well done web site, with tons of great FAQ info about every aspect of bikes, gear, how to properly fit the bike to you, etc. Looks like I'll be spending quite a bit of time with them to make sure I get started properly.



Ken - after checking out your accident pictures and X-rays, I think I might have to sell my truck, skip out on the bike and hole up in my house for the rest of my life :eek: Glad you made it back to good shape after that spill. Yeouch!!!!



Tom
 
It Fun!!!

The exorcise will do you good Tom. I own four bikes and I've learned a thing or two.



1. ) Don't go for a cheapo, you'll spend too much for repairs and maintenance. I bought a entry level Trek and had trouble with it. Mostly with the wheels. I was forever replacing spokes, seems when us big guys chug up the hills it puts a lot of torque on the spokes. So get at least a medium grade ride with sturdy wheels.



2. ) No aluminum frames for us large boys. Nvr Fnsh hit on this. Go with the chrome moly frames.



3. ) Pay careful attention to the shifter style. I like the trigger shift mtn. bike style. Never got used to the grip shift. The road bikes are another story.



4. ) Consider a hybrid for a starter. I purchased a Stumpjumper from Specialized and I really like it to this day. I installed bars with a 4" rise to save my back and make for more comvort. I switched the knobbys for a hybrid tire to make road riding more fun. Never cared for clip on pedals. I always used a large "Bear Trap" style pedal. They are hard on your shins if you wreck though!



5. ) You will likely want to invest in a large gel seat or some sort of cover for the seat. Takes time to get comfortable to the narrow seats. Once you shed some LBS you will be able to fit into riding shorts which have a reinforced crotch. Till then wear two pairs of shorts to make life easier on the bum.



6. ) Once you get past the initial discomfort in the posterior area, you will find the hills are gonna kill ya. I used to spend time on a stair step machine to build my wind and thighs. Blend stair step training into your routine a couple times a week. You will find you can stand on the pedals and charge up the hills.



7. ) Consider a road bike once you get going. They run much narrower wheels and tires which makes them much faster. I have the most fun firing down a country two-lane. You have great roads for just this type of riding up in your area.



Some of the best riding I ever did was around Pennryn, Newcastle, Auburn, Penn Valley, etc. It's awesome in the spring when everything is still green. Lots of irrigation waterways. If you've ever chugged through the foothills on a Harley you know what I mean. No helmet for me, that's just me though:confused: I want the air in my face for effect:cool: Kinda like turbo charging my lungs:eek:



GUYS---post your fave riding areas.



Mine would include the carmel, monterrey, pacific grove area. They have a trail that is paved. Also the seventeen mile drive is best when on a bike. I like riding in the Tahoe area, check out the "Flume Trail". I really like the Graegle area north of Truckee. too. It's wide open and scenic, not much traffic.
 
Nowel, I really appreciate your response. Yes, I do live in some beautiful areas for riding, and I have family in the Monterey peninsula area, will be visiting them in early April. More great places to ride.



I'll post my choice(s) for a bike and gear here when I make the final decision.



Tom
 
Tom,



I just bought my first bike since my 1968 Schwinn Stingray (I'm 40). Your description of needs sound a lot like mine - mostly pavement riding, etc... I've been a runner for several years, but my feet are getting beat up by that, so the bike should be a help in that area. I bought it for exercise and just enjoyable bike riding.



After several years of thinking about it and putting it off, I bought a Giant Sedona. It's a comfort bike - looks like a mountain bike with a little less agressive tires. It has a shock in the seat post and shocks in the forks for a more comfortable ride for a geezer like me. My wife bought the same model a couple of years ago, so I knew it was a good match for me. It cost less than $300. - so it's not a cheapo, but not insanely expensive either. It does have an aluminum frame, so I don't know if that's a problem for you (as HVAC indicated). As you can see, I'm not all that knowlegeable about bikes, but I do know this one is a good one for me. Good luck!
 
I just bought a Cannondale Bad Boy (that's the name of the bike, Bad Boy) It is a full fledged mountain bike with narrow high pressure tires. Low rolling resistance on the pavement. A quick swap to knobbies, which it has clearance for, and I'm ready to hit the trails. I will most likely run a 1. 5 or 1. 75 inch wide Advocet Cross tire and most of the time and limit the "off-roading" to dirt roads. This will be my third Cannondale and my fouth alluminum bike. I'm just shy of 300 pounds and have no fear of aluminum. As big as I am, I've powered past a few people that were flat-out amazed.

BTW, I still have one of my StingRays and my Schwinn Varsity(very heavy). I've got the StingRay set up as an old school bmx'er and only use it in the pits at the dragstrip.
 
Yeah, I still have my old Stingray too. It still has the same first edition motocross handlebars on it. I got them when they first came out - must have been around 1974 or so - and converted the bike with those and a small seat and knobby tires. The handle bars are a lot wider than the newer ones ended up being. I also have the original banana seat and handlebars, but the bike is still decked out in motocross trim - complete with number plate. :D
 
Aluminum Fear?

Regarding frame construction---



QUOTE:

"have no fear of aluminum. As big as I am, "



Would you say that aluminum is stronger then chrome-moly?



Would you say that aluminum is cheaper then chrome-moly?



If you crack a aluminum frame is it easily reparable?



Why would you choose aluminum over chrome-moly?



Don't tell me it's the weight :-laf



I don't fear aluminum. However I'm smart enough to know that chrome moly is a better choice for someone of my presence.
 
getting into mountain biking

Tom,



I echo what has been said but emphasize buying from a reputable bike shop that will fit you to the bike and then ride it! It is so easy to get discouraged especially in the beginning when you are trying to get into shape and it is 'no pain no gain' time. I have never been an athlete and regularly ride a bike for exercise and to some extent fun and it is always a 'workout' for me to ride. It is easy to get discouraged. Ride on fun rides like the Flume Trail at Tahoe and the riding becomes more fun than just pure exercise and a workout. Mountain biking is real good for the heart, legs and lungs. Your lungs might take the longest to get into shape.
 
Get a bike with good gearing, you will need a real granny to grunt up the hills at your size. If you haven't ridden much before, I recommend getting a lower priced bike to start with - you'll be crashing it a time or two most likely so use 1st one to learn and plan to upgrade.



Important: Get a pair of those faggy looking neoprene / spandex bike shorts, and the best padded gel seat you can find. At your size and weight the boys WILL be taking a pounding. Been there, done that. Jock strap and shorts will do in a pinch if you cinch 'em up till you squeak, but you sure 'nuff will know you have been riding.



Be suspicious of rat trap pedals unless you are very experienced, on the trails you frequently see a new rider go into a hill or lean and not be able to get the feet off the pedals in time to avoid cracking up.



I am about 350 now, but several years ago I did a lot of riding on our flatlander version of "rugged" terrain on trails around the little hills that surround Lake Grapevine. I was around 300 pounds then, and the first couple times I went my buddies really kicked my butt, all I could do to finish the trail and I near passed out too. But I rapidly learned to master "conservation of energy" on the hill climbs and within a couple of months I was able to keep up with the skinny boys. Had a blast.



I didn't know jack about bikes, so I actually used a K-Mart Huffy 10-speed "mountain bike" that was basically a hefty 10 speed with knobbly tires. Amazingly, with a 300 pound guy thrashing it up and down hills and rocks the frame never cracked and the wheels and tires held up good too. My $90 Huffy did pretty darn good alongside the more expensive bikes, just didn't have the gearing. I broke a few chains trying to grunt up hills, even 300 lbs standing on a pedal wouldn't move me in some spots so I did a lot of jogging up hill with the bike on my shoulder. Later I got to ride a "real" mountain bike with 21 speeds - woo hoo, what a difference actually pedalling up a hill! Gearing - the biker's friend.



The worst problem I suffered was the beating the boys took. Arggh. Bought a good gel seat but couldn't find the faggy pants in my size in the area so I improvised with some tight thermal drawers. Thermal drawers are not the best solution in 110 degree Texas summers, the boys were sorely challenged that year :D



I have always wondered why bike riders insist on the arrowhead wedge seat design and the resultant pounding. I believe a John Deere tractor seat mounted at the appropriate angle would be a lot more comfortable :D :D :D :D
 
Re: It Fun!!!

Originally posted by HVAC

.



. . Once you shed some LBS you will be able to fit into riding shorts which have a reinforced crotch. Till then wear two pairs of shorts to make life easier on the bum.








YIKES!!!!!!!!!!!



the thought of seeing either Tom or Nowel in riding shorts



:eek: :eek: :eek: :--) :--)









the other thing you should consider is the tailpipe factor of those pesky diesel trucks... ... .....



:D :D :D



big jake
 
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Got a new ride last night

Hi all,



I really want to thank you guys all for your helpful suggestions. I went to a pretty large and well known bike shop in Sacramento last night. I had spent a couple days on their very informative web site, researching everything a newby needs to know, how to have a bike properly fitted to *me*, what equipment to get, etc. , then headed down after work. Spent a good couple hours there, talking with a tech and trying out various different bikes and combinations of setups. Rode a bunch to see what felt good to me.



I ended up with a mid line Trek bike - the 4900. Here is the link to it on the Trek page Trek 4900



It is an aluminum frame, but the techs at the shop were absolutely certain that with the sort of riding I expect to do, this won't be a serious concern for me. Besides, I started the Weight Watchers program about 6 weeks ago, have so far lost 25. 4 pounds, and the main motivation to finally get a [good] bike was to add a solid exercise program to further assist in weight loss. I am aiming to get down to 210 #'s, which I hope to be able to achieve by July or August this year :D



Along with the bike, I got a good helmet, riding glasses (Smith "Sliders" brand, removable lenses), a good lock, a locking truck bed mounting bracket so I can carry the thing with me, good gloves, a water bottle, a "swiss army" type repair tool, spare tube, saddle bag, air pump, chain lube, a Nite Rider brand light setup and a pair of baggy cargo-style riding shorts. Can't stand having the boys bunched up too tight - spandex :eek:



After I decided on the particular bike, the gal working with me said "oh, and that one is 20% off". Really, you guys are having a sale, huh? "No, you see here on the 'Trek' logo, how the sticker has a little piece of the 'R' missing? That's from the factory, and we are selling it as a blemish for 20% off. " Now, on somethings I am vain enough to want it perfect, but the Trek brand name sticker??? The water bottle/air pump mount basically covers that up anyway..... so I got the bike for just under $400 :D:D:D Of course I visually inspected it as well as a novice can, and detected no other blemishes or structural problems, so I bought it! And, a couple of the other items I got ended up being on sale too!!



Can't wait to break it in this weekend. Supposed to be ~70* in my area all weekend :D



Thanks again all.
 
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I got most of my riding info Bicycling Mag. I started in the 70`s.

There is a lot of info in the mag. Water bottle? Is it a frame mount? I like the Camel Back(Mule 96 oz). Set goals and try to ride at a steady pace. Try and get away from stop signs ans stop lights. Take a snack on longer rides. It is easier when you have someone to ride with(wife)? Get good petals,they last longer.

When you try off roading do the little suff first. Vacent lots,flat groung foothills. Get a bike carrier to enjoy the bike in other locals. The Cal coast is great pleasure ride. Good luck;)
 
mountain biking

Tom,



You live in a fabulous area to mountain bike, the foothills and mother lode are of California. I have ridden many times in the area near Nevada City, Grass Valley and Downieville. Just watch for the poison oak as I have gotten into it a few times and it is no fun. If you think you encounterred it take a shower as fast as possible with the special soap for poison oak. I don't know if it helps but it might.



If you ride with clipless pedals as most everybody else will be using that you will encounter, just remember to unclip before you fall down. If you are in an area that is somewhat technical or in traffic you might want to stay unclipped (or use regular pedals) until you are sure you have the clipless pedals figured out. A person I work with rode his bike to an intersection where the traffic light was red and a van was waiting for the light to turn. He forgot the pedals and fell into the side of the van as it was waiting, kind of embarassing especialy when the driver got out to see if the rider was OK. I think the pedals are the hardest thing to master. If you are unclipped before you need to be and before you go below your minimum balance speed and need to stop you will be fine. I have fallen down several times getting the hang of clipless pedals but the advantage of them is worth the learning curve. Your pedal stroke becomes much more effective and efficeint with the pedals.
 
HVAC, Every aluminum bike I have ever owned has had large diameter tubing. Aluminum is stronger pound for pound than steel, but fewer pounds of it are used. Given equal wall thickness doubling a tubes diameter does not double its stiffness... ... . it increases by a factor of six! Higher end aluminum bikes are made with very high tech tubing, most of these tube sets vary wall thickness along the entire length of the tube, relatively thin in the middle and thicker at the ends. If I trash a bike enough to damage the frame, I'll either replace the frame or write the bike off. I cannot think of ONE racer who rides a steel mountain bike, they are a lot harder on a frame than I am. Also, the smaller diameter Cro-mo tube bikes I've ridden (only a few so there may a superior one I'm unaware of) have felt like they flex under me. Note: I'm no engineer, the data I quote is second hand ,If I'm wrong then I'm wrong I will not argue with science.
 
aluminum bikes

Parcher,



Aluminum bikes are stiffer and flex less. Steel (cro molly) will flex some especially when standing on the pedals climbing. They also tend to absorb some of the road vibration, while aluminumm does not. Many purists like the 'feel' of steel. Aluminum is very strong as it is in the wings of airplanes, etc. But, once it is damaged it is almost a useless frame. Virtually every manufacturer of bikes make aluminum frames as they are very well accepted in the industry. I suspect the rims, spokes and tires would fail long before an aluminum frame.
 
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