Here I am

Mounting new hitch

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

To TRade or Not

water leak

Status
Not open for further replies.
Has anyone mounted a new class V hitch on an '06? From what I gather, you need to cut off the factory hitch. Is this much of a project? Does it require removal of the bed?
 
A search should turn up some pictures.



I bolted a towbeast hitch to my truck, it sits under the stock receiver tube so I lost ground clearance. But I did not have to cut the stock hitch and I now have 2 hitch heights to choose from.



The hitches that have you cutting the stock hitch generally will have you cutting the receiver tube off the stock hitch, the main bracing will remain in place.



I wanted a bolt on installation because I did not feel like cutting anything and I kind of like being able to use my drop hitch and choice of hitches to get a level tow setup. I tow different trailers so one setup does not work for everything in my case.



Like I said, run some searches and see what pics show up.



If I just towed my stuff all the time I would have gone with one hitch and kept more ground clearance.



But so far I have not even scratched the paint on the lower hitch so I am not too worried about it.
 
I cut the hitch off my truck to mount my hitch.

You basically need a couple long milwaukee "metal" sawzall blades and the reciprocating saw of your choice.

It takes a while to cut off completely but you'll get it done.
 
StevenJ said:
Has anyone mounted a new class V hitch on an '06? From what I gather, you need to cut off the factory hitch. Is this much of a project? Does it require removal of the bed?



Cutting on my '03 not required. I mearly unbolted it. Did have to lift the rear of the bed a few inches. Removed the rear 2 bed bolts and loosened the front 2. Not a hard job.



Below is the text from the shop manual:



TRAILER HITCH



REMOVAL



(1) Remove the rear bumper. (Refer to 13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/REAR BUMPER - REMOVAL)

(2) Remove the hitch bolts. (Fig. 34)

(3) Disconnect all wire harness support push pins.

(4) Remove the rear two cargo box bolts and loosen the remaining bolts. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/CARGO BOX - REMOVAL)

(5) Using a suitable lifting device, lift and support the rear of the cargo box and remove the hitch.

1 - HITCH

2 - HITCH BOLTS (4)

3 - BUMPER BRACKET BOLTS (4)

4 - BUMPER SUPPORT BRACKETS



INSTALLATION



(1) Install the hitch onto the frame rails and make sure the locators on the inside of the hitch brackets are engaged with the holes in the top of the frame rails properly.

(2) Lower the cargo box and install the rear bolts. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/CARGO BOX - INSTALLATION)

(3) Install the hitch bolts and tighten to 170 Nm (125 ft. lbs. ).

(4) Connect all wire harness support push pins.

(5) Install the rear bumper. (Refer to 13 - FRAME & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/REAR BUMPER - INSTALLATION)



100 Proof
 
Last edited:
jwilliams3 said:
The reason for cutting with the putnam is that you get both hitch structures (old and new) to work as one superstructure.



Well that makes sense.



In my case, I was replacing the rear bumper with a MUCH beefier unit that incorporated an integrated hitch. Old hitch superstructure was in the way. Besides, I had been rear-ended and no longer trusted that hitch and the bumper was bent. Worked out well for me, the other guy's insurance paid for a nice bumper and hitch upgrade for my truck. :cool:



BTW StevenJ, this bumper/hitch is rated for a 5,000#+ pin weight and 20,000# pull. If you are interested, check out the photos in my gallery to see what I ended up with. It might be another option for you to consider for a hitch upgrade.



100 Proof
 
100 Proof, Did you install your own rear Ruenell Bumper If so do you have any install pictures ?l



I did install my own. I did not take pictures. The instructions above cover the most difficult part of the removal of the stock stuff. It is really pretty easy and obvious once you crawl under there and look around.



The installation of the new Ruenell bumper is pretty easy also. The Ruenell weighs about 175#. A floor jack and a buddy will help this install a lot. Especially if you can get the buddy to bring the beverages.



I would rate this 2 beer project on a 6 beer scale.



Good luck and please let us know how this goes for you.



100 Proof
 
I have a 2004 and the Reese CLSV just bolted on and would clear the factory hitch... needs to be low to clear the bottom of the camper when the stinger is slid in. Only had to increase the size of two holes in frame to take the bigger supplied bolts... not hard at all just time consuming, that's why I had some good helpers that had the tools at my camper dealer. THEY are so cool down there!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top