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mounting solar panels

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just the way it is sometimes

Not sure how they mount them down w/o getting roof leaks, but I know that alot of the RV'ers run the power cable down the refridgerator vent.



Would imagine they use good wood screws into the plywood, and seal the heck out of em. Just hate to drill through a rubber roof if you have one. Have heard not to use silicone on that, but have to use a rubber roof sealer.



Either way, 2 50w panels should give you a decent charge, and make the batts last quite a bit longer just from keeping a higher average charge level. Youll love em once they're installed.
 
Panel mounting

I mounted my 2 panels to some 5/16" slotted angle with carriage bolts to keep them side by side parallel to the roof, then used some 1" thick washers to keep them off the roof and allow for water drainage, etc. Drilled four 3/8" holes through roof and bolted them down. Cut the excess bolt length off inside RV just below the nut with a sawzall. Used 50 year caulk to seal them. Been there for 2 years without any leaks.

Mike
 
bill threlkel: Thanks for the url, great info there.



Lordsman: How did you get through the paneling on the ceiling on the inside? I'm pretty sure I have a rubber (whatever) over aluminum roof with insulation and paneling.
 
My solar panels came with 2 "Z" shaped stainless strips to mount them. The panels are then about one inch above the roof providing drainage. The panels bolted to the strips and the strips were screwed to the roof with 1" #12 stainless sheet metal screws.

I did this in 1991 using silicon on a EDPM roof as there was no rubber sealant available then. It is still fine, no leaks, today.

At the same time I mounted a new TV antenna using silicon. It also does not leak.

I have heard that silicon did not work on a rubber roof but it did for me. I since have obtained the proper sealant for a rubber roof.

I will say that drilling holes in my roof was real hard to do.



Happy camping...
 
Texas Diesel, They make a selant called Parr/Parlastic sealant that is made for RVs external sealing and when it sets up it remains flexable, won't UV degrade like silicone. Once it sets up you would be amazed at the holding strenght. I put a 75 wt solar panel on my Lance with this stuff after doing some research to come up with something comparable to what Lance uses. I would also reccommend you use 4 brackets to hold down each panel. A bracket in each coener. Also, the reason you see alot of people running their wires towards the refridgerator vents on the roof is because that is where the manufacturers have a waterproof recepticle for units that are "prewired" for a solar panel or an array.



http://www.alaskatravelers.net
 
I just used some aluminum L stock, some butyl patching tape to make "gaskets" and butyl caulk... three trailers, no leaks! Used stainless steel screws long enough to get through the decking and into the rafters. :)
 
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You're right, drilling into the roof is worrysome. I removed the powervent to see the construction, EDPM, 3/16" plywood, 1 inch of styrofoam, 3/16" plywood, and the the ceiling material. The rafters are in there but I dont know how to find them, and I am worried that the SS sheet metal screws would pull out of such thin plywood. I bought a Nova cool frig and really would like to find a way to mount the solar panels. The key seems to be finding the rafters.
 
I had same question on finding the rafters, so I called the manufacturer... in my Sunnybrook the rafters are 16" on center and to start measuring from one of the roof vents.
 
Yeah the Zircon should do it; the old magnet stud finders are now junk and IMO always have been garbage. I think the one I have is sonar but it works great and had it for about 3-4 years
 
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