Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Moving lift pump to frame - have a question.

[Tom W]

Can I take the mounting bracket off the engine or will I have to make a new bracket?

Thanks

 

[Partyat33]

Gonna have to fabricate something. Its not all that hard. I just did mine. Used a couple of big holes in the frame with stand off and mouted the pump to that.

 

[Bandit2]

Like the man said, you can make your own bracket. Or do like I did, get the kit from Vulcan Weld. It is complete with all the hoses, wireing, fittings and braket. I went a step beyon, put a filter head and filter (fuel and water with a drain on bottom of filter) just ahead of the LP. Now I am useing two filters like a lot of BIG trucks and tractors. Works great! Less than fifty from NAPA

I am not connected with Vulcan Weld.

 

[Tom W]

Thanks for the replies. I thought I might just remove the bracket from the engine and mount it on the frame but I haven't started yet and I wasn't sure what the engine bracket is like. I have previously upgraded with larger lines and got rid of the banjo bolts and I'm now waiting for a new lift pump.

 

[jjohn]

Can I take the mounting bracket off the engine or will I have to make a new bracket?

Thanks

Tom,

Don't remove the factory bracket it seals a hole where the old mechanical fuel pump accesses the block. Big Oil leak!

 

[Cummins Thunder]

You will need a Chevy 350 sb fuel pump block off plate...



I got mine at Oreilly auto parts for $4. 95 its Mr. Gasket brand, chromed steel finish.



Link to a few that will fit...

 

[MikeC]

Lift pump to frame

TomW

Be sure to put something between the bracket and frame or the pump will be noisy.

 

[Tom W]

I just got my new lift pump and have some more questions. I see that the wire connector is on the wrong side to be able use the mount from the engine, it will be facing the frame rail. How near the fuel tank should I try to mount it? Should I cut the metal line to get a couple of feet closer? I could order the Vulcan kit but I hate to spend $100 for a bracket and a piece of hose. Any suggestions?

 

[Cummins Thunder]

Use the bracket that currently holds the pump and plug the hole the bracket covers with the product in the link I posted above.



You will need to cut the metal fuel line and use TWO hose clamps in OPPOSITE directions to secure the rubber hose so as not to have a leak.

 

[klaybus]

Contact Eric at Vulcan... You can't go wrong!



Clay :-laf

 

[Tom W]

O. K. , I got the cover plate from O'Reillys. I might do it this weekend. Should I wait until the fuel is low? Will the fuel siphon out when I take the hoses off?

 

[rivercat]

yes it will pour out like **** out of a boot! wait and do it with at least half empty tank. I cut my line with a big set of cutters that wouldn't go all the way around the line and it drizzled for almost an hour till I got a friend to bring me a small tubing cutter the little box style. Was not fun the shirt/pants I had on still smell like fuel after 10 washes.

 

[Tinman]

Get a FASS

After my lift pump crapped out on the block at about 50K, I moved it to the frame rail and very near the tank. Then I when thru 2 pumps in about 30K miles with the pump on the frame. Go figure???? After the 2nd frame rail mounted pump, I got a FASS and now I have 15 psi all the time. The Carter pumps are just crap, no matter where you put it. Putting it on the frame helps but doesn't solve the problem. Save your money and time and get a FASS or RASP,then its done.

 

[Joe Mc]

Tom - I moved my LP and Fuel Filter to the inside frame rail about a foot in front of the tank. Used some angle brackets and mounted utilizing almost all the factory stuff save for a ball valve to shut off fuel pre LP for filter changes and the what happend when an unwanted preson tries to drive away with your truck. I'll take some pictures and send to you PM only - as it's not pretty and I'd hate to make everyone on the site laugh so hard they'd have a heart attack, especially those with the deep pockets that can readilly afford a FASS or the like.

 

[Tom W]

I sure appreciate all the input. How can anyone get in trouble with all the advice on this website?



Thanks to all.



Tom

 

[Joe Mc]

The site is a wealth of information and no one would knowingly steer you wrong. However, you can get in trouble by listening - especially when the topic of Bombing comes up. Finally got proble with PC cleared up - should be sending pictures email shortly.

 

[rivercat]

PM me i wanna see

 

[Ncostello]

I spent weeks and weeks and nearly a thousand dollars on two different ideas with the lift pump back by the tank on the frame. Look at my photo albums. See what I did.



Note that none of it worked. One lift pump lasted almost a year. The other almost a month.



People can say what they want... but the Carter pump will not last. If you get one that goes 100K... then your lucky. How could any person expect such a little toy motor to pump fuel for 200K?



I was stupid and believed I could make the pump last. Waste of time. Just save your money and replace the motor where its at. Its much cheaper. Either way your gonna have to replace the Carter pump.



Don't mean to sound negative... but the facts are the facts.



First Attempt (complicated approach)

Photo Set 1



Second Attempt (more of a factory look approach using OEM filter and fittings)

Photo Set 2

 

[Joe Mc]

I put the GM fuel pump block off plate on mine when I relocated the LP and it leaked, was not flat. After a slight tweaking it sealed up fine and hasn't leaked since.

 

[Tom W]

I am goin to wait until next weekend to move the pump - fuel tank almost full. Trying to everything ready - what I/D hose will I need to go over the steel line from the tank?