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Mud Flaps

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Need some help? Mud Flaps I dont like them on the trucks, but I am getting stone chips. Looked at Mopar flaps and after market. All the flaps need drilling for the front, rear bolt on, not to happy about making holes in the truck. Need Help
 
I hear ya JJuliano, especially with new tires, the small rocks stick in the tread & fling out against the truck. I have about 2 miles of gravel between the house & the highway, & quickly installed a full length set of aluminum "Diamond Tread' running boards, & matching tool box, with the standard Dodge mudflabs behind the rear wheels. At 135k & 5 years, & have little or no rock chips.
 
I just installed my Mopar mudflaps yesterday (the longer ones for the 4X4). Didn't at all care for drilling the 16 holes in my truck, but in the end they look nice and have already been in use since they are repaving nearly every street around my home! After drilling I touched up each hole with paint and the screws that come with the Mopar flaps have a wax coating which is supposed to protect the freshly drilled sheetmetal.
 
Mopar Mudflaps

Scooby:

If yours are like mine they are moulded around the body a little. Go out and look and see if they touch the side of your fenders. I was thinking about getting some from NW Custom http://www.omnicast.net/nwcustom/ to replace mine but the paint is all rubbed off where the moulded flaps rubb on the body so it is either keep the ones I have, or do body work, repaint and get new ones. Anyone that is just thinking about flaps, give Jason a call and he can hepl you out. Don't know how you are going to install mudflaps without drilling.

Tracy
 
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Just wanted to post a bit of information regarding the Mopar mud flats. Got my truck last Feb and put them on immediately, as I had them as a Christmas present from my brother, also a Ram/Cummins owner. Well, the Mopar flaps are a bit weak in that they essentially aren't long enough to prevent dirt/ rocks etc. from hitting the paint behind them. I modified each of mine with a piece of conveyor belt material about 8 inches long, the width of the flap that I added to the bottom with stainless steel hardware. They flex back some at speed, but now protect all of the painted areas of the truck.



SPIKE
 
I just installed the Mopar mud flaps (from Geno's) front & rear on my '00 2500 - I used the 3M 8mil clear tape that Geno's sells to hopefully prevent the paint rubbing problem.



IMO the Mopar flaps look the best - least noticeable - but they don't have as much coverage as some of the others. My 315/75R16s on stock alum wheels barely stick out past the flaps.



Brian
 
I have the molded mopar flaps, that were to short.

I went to "plop boys" and found a set of just plain flat mud flaps that were much longer. I replaced the Mopar flat pieces with the Plop boys version and solved the problem. They are so long, on my 2wd they hit the road at times when I go over large ruts (like my driveway)



Originally posted by Jakebud

Just wanted to post a bit of information regarding the Mopar mud flats. Got my truck last Feb and put them on immediately, as I had them as a Christmas present from my brother, also a Ram/Cummins owner. Well, the Mopar flaps are a bit weak in that they essentially aren't long enough to prevent dirt/ rocks etc. from hitting the paint behind them. I modified each of mine with a piece of conveyor belt material about 8 inches long, the width of the flap that I added to the bottom with stainless steel hardware. They flex back some at speed, but now protect all of the painted areas of the truck.



SPIKE
 
I've got the Mopar flat(un-molded) mud flaps and like them pretty well, they look good and seem to be long and wide enough to block the majority of rocks, mud, etc. There are two versions of this flat flap, long ones for 4 x 4's and shorter ones for 4 x 2's. Jakebud, I wonder if yours are the 2wd versions? My 4 x 4's are over 12" I'm sure (truck is home, I'm at work so can't measure).

I believe this type of mudflap is called "deluxe anti-spray" or somethng like that in the Mopar accessories catalog. I prefer this type of flap to the molded type... I think those look sorta sissified. Although you do have to drill a few holes, you don't have the paint rubbing problems like the molded versions.
 
I got the Mopar moulded ones from Genos about a year ago. I like mine, haven't checked for paint rubbing off, but they help a lot from flying debris beating the sides of the truck.
 
Another option for you guys that don't want flaps would be to paint the lower portion of your truck with a rock guard. Most body shops can do this and can match the rock guard to your paint color. This is similiar to most of the spray in bedliners available now, but thinner with very little to no texture. I don't recall the cost, I did this on my old Blazer back in 1994.



Just a thought.



Eric O.
 
Attaching Stock Mopar Flaps

I have the OEM flat mudflaps on the front, and real truck flaps on the rear as part of my flatbed.



I have been having trouble with the front flaps coming loose. It seems that if you drag the front flaps on anything (easy to do if you ever go off of pavement) it will tend to yank the bottom sheet metal screw out. I keep tightening these up, but there has to be something better for fastening these. I believe it is a blind hole, so no way to easily attach a nut and bolt.



Was wondering if there is something like a sheetrock toggle bolt or similar made for sheetmetal applications.



TIA



Shelby
 
Originally posted by EOliver

Another option for you guys that don't want flaps would be to paint the lower portion of your truck with a rock guard. Most body shops can do this and can match the rock guard to your paint color. This is similiar to most of the spray in bedliners available now, but thinner with very little to no texture. I don't recall the cost, I did this on my old Blazer back in 1994.



Just a thought.



Eric O.



I've had all the rocker panels on my truck done in the rocker coating. No chips yet and it's been almost 6 months. Not sure of the cost because I had some other stuff done at the same time. I've got some pretty good pictures of it on the website in my signature.
 
I made small angle iron or channel iron brackets to extend out into the wheel well and hold the flap. Holes drilled into sheet metal last about 3-4 yrs tops in Wisconsin. And I had to splice onto My cheap flaps bought at Farm & Fleet too, 3 pair became 2 pair! Keeps the wheel wells, fenders, etc. from packing up with snow. Don't make them TOO LONG because as was said before, they'll drag. And if You happen to back up You'll pull them off! And if they're mounted into Your sheet metal, You'll really screw up your fenders. :eek:

DENNY... ... ... ... ... ... ... .....
 
Hey Homestead!,



I hear ya, didn't want to drill the holes either. Take the lesser of the two evils, holes or stone chips? Drill the holes then use a little touch-up paint in the holes and on the threads of the screws just before you put them in. Or, use a dab of silicone gasket sealer the same way. Try to protect the fresh metal from rusting out somehow, especially with all the salt they use around here in the winter.



Just my 2 cents.



Joe Mc
 
Thanks

Thanks for all the info, Well went with Mopar Molded Flaps,did add clear tape to help with paint rub. Filled all holes that I drilled with paint,silicone, used the wax screws that came with it.



Thanks Joe:)
 
<blockquote><small>

Shelby Griggs asked:

&quot;...

Was wondering if there is something like a sheetrock toggle bolt or similar made for sheetmetal applications. &quot;</font></blockquote>



Blind rivets (Pop&reg;, Cherry&reg;, etc. ) are the answer, especially if you can get a backing washer on the mushroom end. Very permanent installation, until you take that drill after them...



I've got fiberglas flairs and running boards. I too need some mud flaps as the exposed corners are very eroded from normal driving. I'm not looking forward to this job as nothing off the shelf will fit.



Does the Herculiner sold in many autoparts stores have any use for rock ships. You can get a kit that will coat a short bed box for under $100. 00

Maybe it will work for the rock panels?



-John
 
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Rocker panels

I used Herculiner to coat the rocker panels on our last truck. It was very effective and very tuff. After many miles the rocks had not affected it, and the only down side I can see compared to the commecially applied coatings is that you are stuck with black.

Bob
 
UH OH! :eek: Tracy... ... those are the mudflaps I just installed - I never heard about the paint rub..... now I'm worried..... Perhaps I should go back and pull them off and use that clear tape as well?
 
Clear Tape

Originally posted by Scooby

UH OH! :eek: Tracy... ... those are the mudflaps I just installed - I never heard about the paint rub..... now I'm worried..... Perhaps I should go back and pull them off and use that clear tape as well?

Scooby;

Good idea. It is too late for me. :( :(
 
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