Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) mufflerdectomy

[Sticks]

MUFFLE-WHAT



I am going to extract the muffler from my 3500 OEM Exhaust system Saturday. I have the section of 4" and a reducer from 4" to 3. 5".



Anybody done this procedure at home have any tips? I have a feeling that I am going to have to either come up with a sleeve or take the 4" section to a shop to have one end expanded to slip over the section coming out of the resonator. I don't have a large enough set of calipers, so my pipe diameters are a eyeball guess that it is 4" out of the resonator, and 3. 5 on the other side of the muffler.



Suggestions anyone?



Sticks

 

[mgoncalves]

Yes, the resonator is 4" outlet, however I think the outlet of the muffler is only 3". If you are going to go 4" all the way eventually, just get a 4" tailpipe and then all you have left is the downpipe and a different muffler or resonator. My 4" tailpipe was about 50$ and was well worth the effort of installing it.



Just my . 02

Matt

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Heck Sticks , even if you tear the whole dang thing off ... ... ... ... ... You will be I herad a few guys where they just move the resonator down stream and use it as the muffled scource but again it only has a 3" inlet so that won't do ya any good for performance.

 

[dshawhan]

Tak'em all out!

You will be glad you did in the end. The pipe is 3" and if you want to take the muffler and resonator out the pipe will be around 65 inches long May be longer on your QC Not sure on it but a right 18 degree and a left 18 degree turn in it somewhere to make up for the offset muffler and it will sound great. This is what is under mine and it was about half an hour to do you will need two 3" clamps also. Good luck

 

[Sticks]

The weather and other obligations prevented me from the operation.



The reducer that I have will go down to 3" ID and is clampable. I am going to weld the reducer onto the 4" piece so I can just reuse the two OEM clamps. I lack the funds right now to do the full exhaust system. I am planning on the 4" from the resonator back. I need to stick with the stock turbo to resonator because of the e-brake that I just purchased. It is the remote US-Gear HD model that is 3. 5".



Hopefully Tuesday or Wednesday.



Sticks

 

[Straight6Jeff]

the pipe can be straight with no fitment problems. It actually gives more clearance. A straight piece of 3" , 59" long, a 3" coupler on the rear and a band clamp in the front that is butted tot eh front pipe.

Fab up some hangers and it's done.

 

[Sticks]

Originally posted by Straight6Jeff

the pipe can be straight with no fitment problems. It actually gives more clearance. A straight piece of 3" , 59" long, a 3" coupler on the rear and a band clamp in the front that is butted tot eh front pipe.

Fab up some hangers and it's done.

Is this removing the muff an going straight out the back, no turn to the passenger side?



Sticks

 

[Straight6Jeff]

Tihsi is removing the muff and resonator. It connects to the factory tail pipe and factory intermediate pipe. one thing is that if you get rid of both muff and res, make sure you get 12 ga tubing. the thinner guages tend to amlify drone if you have it.

 

[Sticks]

The operation was not a success

:{ :{ :{



Finally got a chance to crawl under the barge at work. Had to grease the fenders to get it in the garage at work (1/2 on both sides .



I loosened up the clamps (only one nut seized on the exit side of the muff, even with it lubed). I got the rubber bushings holding the hangers off with no difficulty. I lubed and mildly beat both ends to break the "weld" between the two connections of pipe. I even had visible movement. The U-bolt clamps were tightened so much that it left a healthy dent 1/3 around the top of both sections, and would not let me slip the muff out.



The main objective behind this was to salvage the muff in the event that I would be able to reinstall it if needed.



I there a trick that I am missing, or do I have no choice but to cut the muff out?



Sticks

 

[Lsfarm]

Muffler removal

Sticks: do you have a short hydraulic jack, sometimes called a bottle jack? I just put one between the muffler and the ressonator and with a block of wood or metal plate against the end of the muffler to prevent dents.



Once I started to jack the two items apart, I kept wiggling the muffler and with a bit of patience, they slid apart. You might need a second set of hands to use this method.



Good Luck. Greg L. The Noise Nazi

 

[keimmmo]

Yes, there is a trick. I used to own a muffler shop and have dealt with the problem thousands of times. You need to get a torch with at least a big welding tip... a "rose bud" is even better. Heat the dented area and twist the muffler/pipe. The heat makes the metal soft and the twisting will remove the dent making it possible to separate the joint. Have fun!



Steve

 

[rashwor]

Muffler shop...

I had my muffler removed by a local muffler shop and left the resonator in place. Cut the muffler out, cut the hanger off the back of the muffler, weld strainght pipe in place, weld hanger back to straight pipe. $45 for 10 minutes and



Had it done in November 2002 and no regrets since then. Save yourself the time and trouble and fire up that torch!Oo.

 

[Sticks]

Thanks for the tips everyone! My oxy-acetelyne kit is on one end of town, and the shop I am working in is on the other.



I got two quotes for the job at different shops, and they were both over $60, and I was supplying the pipe to replace the muff with .



I will try a combination of the above hopefully Friday. Thursday is going to be busy.



Sticks

 

[Udaloy]

Mufflerectomy

Hey Sticks,



I used a sawzall to cut the pipes just before and after the muffler. Had a 4'' to 3'' reducer and it fit fine. Measured the gap and needed a 34'' piece overall length with a 3'' offset. I think dshawhan had it right with about 18 degree bends. It needed to be expanded at one end to fit over the tail pipe. The whole job took maybe an hour including running to the parts store to get the pipe. Now I just can't wait for spring to arrive so I can ride with the windows down

 

[Sticks]

Udaloy,



Just turn the heater up all the way



Sticks

 

[Sticks]

Success!

I had to mostly trash the OEM muffler pipes, but it is fixable.



First opinions, I don't notice anything in the cab, with the windows open, except at around 2500 rpm. Then just a little murmur from underneath. Sounds a tiny bit different at idle standing by the tip. I have just a couple of leaks, so I either need new clamps, or go after it with a welder.



If I did'nt know any better, I would say that I lost power. Maybe my SOP measuring instrument needs calibration, but it just feels like I lost power. Also only got 14 mpg on this last tank, that is down 3mpg from normal. Going to check the IAT, and all the intake and exhaust connections today.

 

[Chris N5CWM]

I did mine back in October of 2001 after I heard one.



Took it to a local muffler shop where they cut the OEM muffler off and welded in a section of replacement pipe and a reducer. They even put it in their tubing bender and shaped the pipe so it's not a straight shot. Kept the resonator in place of course.



No funny vibrations, no anoying drone. Ought to sound like this from the factory! I've heard most of the 4" aftermarket systems but the mufflerectomy sounds best (my opinion).



I understand your perception of lost performance & MPG. With the new sound, I'll bet you're in the throttle a lot more (thus the increased use of fuel) and I guess the better sounding exhaust just makes you desire more HP!



My understanding is that the stock exhaust flows fine for trucks that are BOMBED up to around 375 HP before going to a full 4" system is necessary.

 

[Sticks]

MPG has to be a different issue. I only had about 30 miles on the muffler free system when I filled up (46$ worth ) Loss of power feeling is what I noticed after the surgery. Hopefully I am just imagining things.



Sticks