My 600 runs like a POS..

[mikepvg]

SOMETIMES! But not all the time?



I was having an EXTREME amount of BLACK smoke upon cold soak starts. Dealer installed TSB 18-037-04. Cold soak starts now produce WHITE smoke for many minutes.



Another very disturbing development has materialized..... a STUMBLE or MIS-FIRE between 1000 & 1200 rpm. Enough to make me think its definately not running on all cylinders! Curiously this extremely annoying symptom disappears & the engine runs perfectly smooth from idle on up. I can not observe a pattern for when it materialzes.



The other thing that I have noticed is that this symptom existed from new but is getting worse & more pronounced. It was barely noticeable when new but for sure was there all along. Truck now has less than 5K.



I need advice since the stupid dealer has NONE!

HELP!



Mike

 

[JVolpe]

This is summary of my post on another site, hope it helps.



Summary:

First 7500 miles smooth idle, no ticks/knocks, no smoke any time and start cold just like when warmed up.

Then started rough idle, tick/knock at idle and low rpm acceleration, some sputtering/misfires on cold start and white smoke on cold start. After warmed up it started and ran ok.

Finally took it to the dealer on Wednesday morning and told them the problems.

First day the ran tests with nothing showing out of normal ranges.

Told them to keep overnight and then tell me everything normal. In the morning they called and agreed with me about symptoms.



Picked up the truck today at lunch, the service invoice and info follows. It appears that the dealer has some flexibility in dealing with Star and Warranty work. Some Service Departments are better than others. I am very happy with my dealer's Service Department.



This is the Service Invoice.



J# 1 14DOZ DRIVEABILITY TECH(S): 238

Customer states hard to start in am. A lot of white smoke out of the exhause/knock or tick noise. Seems to run better when warmed up.

Duplicated concern.

DRB tested performed diesel injection diagnostic testing. Testing determined leaking fuel injector when cold. Leaking fuel directly into cylinder.

Contacted Myron at Star Center for information on determining which cylinder is leaking. Myron stated to remove exhaust manifold and restart engine to determine which cylinder has smoke. Removed exhaust manifold as instructed. Cylinder #6 injector failure.

Diagnosed tested and replaced #6 fuel injector. Removed and reinstalled exhaust manifold as part of diagnostic procedure per Star instruction.



Parts QTY 1 FP-NUMBER R5135790-AB DESC. INJECTOR 14099006 Price 0. 00



Truck is running great now. No rough idle, no low end knock, no misfires on cold start, no white smoke anytime and starts like new. Mileage is up at least 1mpg also. I did not realize how bad it was really running.

 

[MichaelWright]

Sounds like a bad injector(s). Do a search for "Crayola Crayon" here on TDR. Easy way to check for bad injector. At least you can tell the dealer which one is bad.



Mike

 

[mikepvg]

Sounds like a bad injector(s). Do a search for "Crayola Crayon" here on TDR. Easy way to check for bad injector. At least you can tell the dealer which one is bad.



Mike

Did a search & nothing relavent came up. Pls advise...

 

[bmoeller]

I found a couple for ya-



QUOTE=TowPro]welding supply places sell these things called temple sticks, its like a crayon. YOu mark the end of the probe with it, heat just the end of the probe where you marked it. When the mark changes colors its the temp the temple stick is designed for, have your buddy check the gauge.



I used a 1000 deg stick.



It takes 2 people because the probe will cool off before you can run around and check what the gauge says.



You want to heat the end of the probe, as It was explaned to me, they are actualy telling you the difference between one end of the probe and the other. -QUOTE

 

[bmoeller]

Here's why your gauges read 75-150 degrees when cold:



Thermocouples don't read absolute temperatures. They produce a voltage which is proportional to the temperature *difference* between a hot junction (in the turbo elbow, etc) and a cold junction. The cold junction is actually formed by the connection of the wires at the meter. Now comes the tricky part: Simple analog meters don't know what the cold junction temperature is, so they just assume you're going to try to be a comfortable human and set your heater or A/C to around 75 degrees in the truck. So they assume 75 degrees for the cold junction temp. Now when you get in your truck first thing in the morning, both junctions would be at the same temperature. The voltage roduced is zero. So the meter reads the 75 degree offset it *assumes* for the inside cab temperature. A good way to calibrate your meter is to stick the hot junction end into a pan of boiling water, which boils at 212 degrees at sea level. If the cab temperature is 75 and the gauge reads 212, you're right on.



-HotVP44

Blue Chip R&D

 

[MichaelWright]

Mikepvg



This is how you check to see if you have a bad injector. You will need one Crayola Crayon and a cold truck.



Start the truck, get under the hood and start marking each of the six exhaust manifold tubes, closest to the head. If there is a bad injector, the crayon will not melt, or it will melt extremely slow, and I mean real slow. I found a yellow crayon works best for me, easier to see.



Sounds silly, but it works. Been there, done that.



Mike

 

[mikepvg]

Thanks for the tip/info. We got plenty of crayons around here w/ a toddler in the house & it certainly sounds like a good experiment/test.

 

[KevinO]

could also start truck cold have a laser temp gauge and run it down each of the exhaust ports and note the differences in temps