Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) My automatic

[firemanmarc]

While pulling a load of hay the other day my transmission has started to shutter. I know it is the Torque converter as it happens after lockup and before rpm's build. My question is the transmission was rebuilt by a shop(before I knew of TDR). I asked him about the and he said he could put some friction modifier in it and it wopuld cure it???? Is this true?? Or is this why I have read people turning up their line pressure. ?? I really want this damn transmission to last at least until spring, when the manual is going to go in. Any help will be appreciated, and lastly when this transmission comes out it will be free to any one who wants it!! Thank you, Marc

 

[BillGotthelf]

I do not believe the friction modifier will help. There are different pressures the trans uses to shift through the gears and to lock up the TC. As far as I know all aftermarket TC's use higher pressures to insure complete lock up under high torque/horsepower use.

 

[jimk]

Originally posted by firemanmarc

While pulling a load of hay the other day my transmission has started to shutter. I know it is the Torque converter as it happens after lockup and before rpm's build. My question is the transmission was rebuilt by a shop(before I knew of TDR). I asked him about the and he said he could put some friction modifier in it and it would cure it???? Is this true?? Or is this why I have read people turning up their line pressure. ?? I really want this damn transmission to last at least until spring, when the manual is going to go in. Any help will be appreciated, and lastly when this transmission comes out it will be free to any one who wants it!! Thank you, Marc

If I were you I would extend the shifts and not go into overdrive until 2500 and let up on the throttle when I shift from third gear lock to forth gear and ease into the throttle.

When I have a trailer that has a load on it I will start in manual low and ease on the throttle till I get 2400 then I shift after I let up on the throttle, into second then 2400 or so then I let up on the throttle and shift and ease on the throttle. I do the same with 3 gear, but I use the lockout to extend the rpms to 2500. I made a bracket to hold the throttle lever on the transmission from returning all the way back to keep the pressure up at idle and extend the shifts in auto. This way the transmission will shift later and this helps extend the life of the auto.

I am not interested in DRAG RACING or any thing else like that just a DEPENDABLE truck that is ready to go to work and not be pulled home every time I go on the road. I would not use the friction modifier and use ATF 3. I will continue to do this till I can find a truck with a 5 speed. My truck has 90k on it and the transmission works good for a stock auto. JimK

 

[LSMITH]

The friction modifier will hide the shudder quite well, but it is not the right thing to do UNLESS the shudder is when the TC is trying to lock AND you are running other than ATF3 or ATF4. If the shudder is after it is locked and you add power then there is a problem. Get it fixed or it will cost you a LOT more later.

 

[tgrfan2]

Shudder

A good cheap solution is to go to the TST web site and get the instructions to put in a switch to control lockup. I did this because the power control module on my 95 is bad. I like the extra control of being able to lock up when I need to instead of at preset specs. I always let up when shifting into lockup and the shifts feel much like a manual would. It has worked great for 70k miles. I do use Lubegard in both my trucks, but you can overdose them.

 

[98rammer]

or do like i did... . install a switch for stock programming/UNlock on the torque converter. forcing lock up will just compound the problem since you can only force it for earlier-than-stock programming... not later.



Tom

 

[tgrfan2]

lockup

I wasn't referring to the info on forcing lockup. There used to be a description on that site showing how to override the computer to keep lockup from engaging until you flip a switch. I have used it for several years and it only disengages lockup or keeps the PCM from engaging lockup until you are ready to lockup. Bsaically you just run the ground through a switch if my memory is correct.

 

[98rammer]

oh ok, i guess i read that wrong. forcing ground makes it lock up. keep it from grounding keeps the converter from locking up. i simply have a switch that doesn't allow the wire (B11 if i remember right) to get to the PCM, then i flip the switch and it does. hence the pcm tells the converter when to lock (stock programming).



shudder isn't always just converter clutch failure. Bill K says that it's 40% stronger than any other clutch in the transmission, but gets a bad rep due to there being internal leaks (lowering pressure to the lock up cltuch), etc.



i would NOT use a friction modifier as there can be many side effects, however it may for for you fireman.

 

[ehettman]

any power mods, my stock transmission held 300 hp but not 20,000 lbs of bulls. fixed the fried disc and seals and blown out transmission lines nand took it to 400 hp with TC lockup switch that jumps from third to fourth and eventually broke input shaft while towing.

your shuddering could be input shaft clutch housing, now that mine is new there is no sluggishness towing and little shuddering into 4th.

keep the auto you cant outshift em put in a Suncoast TC and valve body like i am planning.

 

[98rammer]

Originally posted by ehettman

any power mods, my stock transmission held 300 hp but not 20,000 lbs of bulls. fixed the fried disc and seals and blown out transmission lines nand took it to 400 hp with TC lockup switch that jumps from third to fourth and eventually broke input shaft while towing.

your shuddering could be input shaft clutch housing, now that mine is new there is no sluggishness towing and little shuddering into 4th.

keep the auto you cant outshift em put in a Suncoast TC and valve body like i am planning.

wow, i can't believe you put over 400hp through the rebuilt transmission- mostly stock components? the tc is weak anyways. i feel that i'm pushing my trans fairly hard if i drive it a certain way. 370's now?... .

 

[firemanmarc]

I most certainly appreciate the replys. To clarify some things, the shudder occurs as I accelerate after lock-up, whether in o/d or not. If I ease into it helps, only makes it easier to see something is slipping as rpm's increase. I too am only looking for a dependable truck, truck has been ok other than transmission(3 rebuilt ones). I have considered my driving habits and do not believe they should affect it that much. All I do with this truck is work with it on the farm, hauling water,feed, and pulling loads of hay to customers. I have never hooked to wagon, hell I beat the crap out of my*ford powestroke* and it kept coming back for more too bad the motor would never start or I might have have never found out how good the Cummins could be. All I want is a truck that I don't have to baby(drive like my wife's van). Again thank you, but my mind is made up and out goes the auto for a manual. Thanks, marc

 

[jimk]

automatic

Sir I do believe that the auto can be fixed to be reliable, it wont be cheap though. My friend is getting his fixed this weekend. He likes a auto and just wonts one that will stay together. My friend wonted to know what his options were as he has never had a auto that would stay together. If you are willing to spend the money then it can be done.

I just don't care for the gap between 3 and 4 gear. A governor kit will bridge this, how ever some times that is where I tow and that is really a drain on my attitude.



4. 2k+ for a automatic and a gear vendor to split the gap for towing along with the electronics support (boxes) for control. Or a standard transmission in good shape ( fully splined main shaft ) south bend clutch or what ever you wont and the rest of the things you will need to do the conversion.

Either way is a lot of money. I am going to keep driving mine and baby the transmission and when I find the truck that suits my needs, my brother will buy mine as he all ready wonts it and will pay cash for it. He does does not tow so it is good for him.

If a new truck is what you wont then If 0 percent finance was available and a good break on the price that would be an option. I get fleet price on ford or dodge and I think Chev. Just a matter of choice. If only Ford would put a cummins in there truck, ( one ton) I would go for it. lol Jim

 

[RLuster]

ATS is all

If you want to keep the automatic call ATS. The torque coverter they sell will cure all and will last longer than a clutch and sore leg