My Conversion 79 F-350 Whats it worth??

[Red Stroke]

My Conversion 79 F-350 What do you think it worth??

1979 Ford F-350, 94 Cummins, 4r100 Auto, Np205 Regular Cab Long Box



Motor Cost $

• 94 160 hp 2500

• 200k miles

• 191 delivery valves (stock 161) 300

• #4 cam plate full forward 195

• 4K governor spring kit 125

• 370 marine injectors

• 60 lb valve train 400

• 16cm exhaust housing 175

• Used factory Dodge Intercooler 100

• 4 core Ford Radiator 300

• Tymar Air Filter

• Stock Down Pipe (3”) to 5” Straight

• Dual Batteries

• Push Button Heater Mesh

• Rebuilt Starter with HD Contacts 150

• New Block Heater

• Stock Timing Dynoed at 338hp

• Haven’t ran ¼ but faster than a 6. 0 with 100hp Edge (low 15s)





Transmission

• 4r100 Ford Trans out of Superduty 1000

• Factory Rebuild 500

• Trans Go HP Diesel Shift Kit 100

• Suncoast Triple Disc TC 1350

• Transmission Adapter 650

• Baumannator Stand alone Controller 500 http://www.becontrols.com/

Fully adjustable with a laptop, with software.

• Dual Trans Coolers (doesn’t get hot) 300





Transfer Case

• NP205 Cast Iron Gear to Gear 150





Drive Train

• Dana 60 Front 30 spline axle shafts 1000

Rebuilt king pins, Brakes, Knuckles

Re-Packed Wheel Bearings, Open

• Rear axle Dana 60 Lincoln Locked 200

• Add-a-Leafs Front and Rear 100

• 1310 Series U-Joints (Same size as front Driveshaft on a Superduty)



Frame ? 500

• I used one of those rust converter systems

On the frame worked O. K, Frame is solid.

• Removed half of the front frame crossmember and

Lowered and moved motor towers rearward.

• Removed factory transmission crossmember and replaced with

Narrowed superduty crossmember.

• New brake lines and 3/8 Fuel lines

• New Fuel Tank 150

• 3” Body Lift to allow engine fitment. 130

• New RS 9000 Shocks Rear 175

• RS 5000 Front



Gauges

• Autometer Tach picks up signal from alternator 150

• Autometer Trans Temp 100

• Autometer Pyro 130

• Boost 0 to 60 psi 30

• Oil Pressure

• Water Temp

• Voltmeter





Tires

• 285/75r16 Super Swamper TSL Radials

• New Hubcaps





Body

• Needs finished, Cab and Box Both Solid but need paint/body work





About Truck

• Truck has been driven in summer, pulled, silver lake once (with the way it looks I was nervous going, never had so many people pull up and talk to me before, it got a lot of attention and it wasn’t from the body)

• Set up is great the way it is (power level), I want to go bigger and this truck would have to be completely changed to do what I want, Runs out great and set up perfect for this power level, great fuel mileage, and more power than any new stock truck.

• I did the whole conversion myself, over 100 hours on the conversion.

• With the estimated prices I could remember I have over $11,460. 00 in this conversion, plus the countless hours of fabrication.





Pictures





More Info

 

[btanner]

I think you are going to have a hard time getting the money you think it's worth. First the body doesn't match so it look incomplete. There are some good parts in the truck but it seems like parts of it are slapped together. Wiring and plumbing doesn't look all that clean. Underside of truck the t-case is caked with oil. The crossmember looks like it was cut with an alligator.



If you really want to get some money back on this truck have it painted and clean up the wiring and clean up the underside and take some more pictures. It's going to be a hard sell though for a couple of reasons. First most people looking for conversions are actually looking for crewcab trucks because dodge didn't make a real crew cab until last year. So the single cab is going to work against you. The interior is a little rough although it's pretty good for a work truck that's 26 years old. If you really want to just get rid of the truck I'm sure someone would buy it for about 7500 if everything is in good working order. if you want your money back you're going to have to wait for that perfect buyer (the guy that wants exactly what you built) or spruce it up some.



I have built a chevy conversion and I have a pretty good idea of the amount of time and money it takes and it pretty much comes down to that you'll never get the money back out of it so build what you want and keep it. Best of luck



-ben

 

[Red Stroke]

Thanks for the excellent feed back, I am to a point that I would like to see what it is worth the way it is without sinking alot more money into aesthetics. Crossmember alligator?? that was with a plasma cutter.

Thanks Ben



Adam

 

[btanner]

no problem. put a piece of angle down and clamp it down when you are cutting it'll come out straight as an arrow. Doesn't matter what you used to cut it you can get a pretty finished look with either a torch, cut-off wheel or plasma obviously plasma is a little easier but free handing it usually comes out about like your's did. I would at least go after it with a grinder and smooth it down some. I don't think you have to sink a lot of more money into it, but I think you'll get a significantly higher amount of money if you clean some things up.



-ben

 

[Red Stroke]

I dont know if you realize, but the piece of crossmember in the picture is from the front of the frame which is not straight in any way and these pictures are from the removed piece, the finished weld is on the frame and it is done properly. Thanks Adam



Look Here

 

[btanner]

right but you can still makes those straight lines and make it look better.



Look I'm not trying to argue with you I could care less what you truck looks like, but you are trying to sell it. If a potential buyer sees the cross member hacked like that they are going to assume the rest of the truck is hacked too. it doesn't matter if it is or isn't it's all perception.



I had to notch a couple of different areas in my truck for the engine to fit and none of them look like that. Also with the weight of the engine I hope that you replated that crossmember so that it'll have the strength that it originally had. if it isn't I would be concerned that you could start folding the frame together.



-ben

 

[Red Stroke]

Thanks for the advice

Adam

 

[PKirby]

Adam:



I am in the same boat as you on having more money in my truck than what it is worth. But I am not looking to sell mine.



If the truck is not suitable for your needs, you could either sell it and take your loss, or find a mid 90's F250 or F350 and put your engine and trans in it.



In my area Ford turbo diesel trucks have a good resale value, but the gas burners are dirt cheap. A guy priced me a 1995 F250 4x4 with a 351 and a bad manual trans a few weeks ago for $1500. I have seen others cheap also.



Just an idea.

 

[Red Stroke]

Yeah I am thinking about selling and taking a loss, I just want to see how much of a loss, or I can finish the body, putting more money into it, that I dont know if I can get back out?? Would someone rather pay more for a complete truck or get it cheaper and do some body work??