Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) My first post, look at 96 3500 with 200K, any ideas

[smote]

My first post, looking at 96 3500 with 200K, any ideas of problems

Hello everyone, this my first post.

I been reading for a couple of years and finally decided I needed to join.



I going Saturday morning to look and drive a 96 3500 4x4, 5 speed. The odometer reads 200K. Now for the question. What should be the things to look out for? Of course KDP damage, check the turbo for play and damage, big oil leaks, ???????

I know this truck has allot of miles but it's in my price range of under $13K, they're asking $10900.



Thanks in advance.

 

[RVPILOT]

The thing that I think most important is the maintenance schedule, what kind of oil and what kind of driving. I have over 500,000 milels on my 96 3500 and the only thing replaced that was Cummings was a water pump and idler pulley at about 400k also the exhaust manifold as precaution as they have a tedecy to shrink and damage the mounting ears on the head which could mean a new one (ouch). stormy

 

[Berrigan]

Welcome to the gang!



Same as a ferd or cheb with 200k with the only difference being the engine should go another 200k or more if it was maintained and not abused. Expect to put some money in the rest of the truck.



Ask the seller for proof of maintenance. If the motor was not maintained and or has been bombed or otherwise worked hard that 200k left in it may be much less.

 

[Tom C]

Welcome.



I always look for oil on the underside. I find that the trucks that have been driven hard usually leak somewhere. Not to say its dripping all over but the seals may have weeped enough to make a mess. Don't confuse a leaking mess with the mess the crank case breather tube may make. If all your seals are tight you know you wont have to replace seals anytime soon. I then ask his/her maintenance schedule (engine oil, transmission, diff's, filters, belt). what kind of oil do they use, etc. . Some one who keeps good care of there truck will use quality parts and oil. Then I ask about everything (fuel sender problems, ac last recharged, brakes pad life, tire tread, etc) I try and get an idea of all the items that they had to fix over the years and make a list of what needs attention so I know the history and what I'll have to fix if I buy. might also see what factory recalls there have been on that model and see what they had remedied.



good luck,



Tom



edit: you can also check for a salvage or flood title. there are different agencies that ccan do this. I think one is called carfax.

 

[BillGotthelf]

Check the front rotors to make sure they are not scored. If you are luck and they are okay you'll save yourself over $500 each as the hubs and rotors are one piece. Check startup to see about batt and starter condition. Truck is hard to kill but it can be done.

 

[bighammer]

Originally posted by BillGotthelf

Check the front rotors to make sure they are not scored. If you are luck and they are okay you'll save yourself over $500 each as the hubs and rotors are one piece. ...

Is the 3500 a different design than the 2500? On mine they separate by tapping out the lugs.

 

[BillGotthelf]

The 3500 is completly different from the 2500. I got one of each. 2500 rotor and hub $70 3500 hub and rotor dealer only-over $500.

 

[Kernel]

One thing I was told by a fella when I was looking into buying a diesel was to causally ask if it has ever needed ether to get it started. If the seller says yes, then stay away from it, unless you intend to rebuild the engine anyways.





Scott

 

[RedRamer]

Check the injection pump top screws to see if they were touched.



If not, get the engine warmed up, take on an open stretch and you should still be able get from 0 - 60mph in 16 - 16. 5 seconds WOT.



If not, take it to a Cummins dealer and get it dynoe'd and blowby tested.



The rest of the truck should cost you no more than the same as any other pickup for maintenance.

 

[HomerDog]

You can seperate and replace the rotor from the hub on a 3500 4x4. I just had it done this week. Rotors were shot but the rest was ok... . Dave

 

[smote]

I looked at the truck last Saturday.

It;s a little rusty in the front fenders and the botton part of the doors on the inside. The exhaust from the muffler back is gone and looks like it's been missing for quite some time. The tailgate has to be picked up on the left side to open. Tires look good, engine starts right up and sounds good, it has the normal oil seepage. I forgot the check for missing exhaust manifold bolts and check the turbo play. It seems to drive fine. At $10900 does this price sound about right? I know if I want make it nice I'll have to have doors and fenders replaced, new paint, new chrome front bumper, new carpet and lots of elbow grease. I just need something to pull a 10,000 5th wheel to some local camp grounds and a reliable vehicle to get me back and forth to work.

 

[Tom C]

I would get the book value and then subtract for any repairs needed to bring it up to spec.



Good Luck



Tom

 

[BillGotthelf]

HomerDog you are correct. You can get aftermarket rotors for the 3500 but no one sells the hub assembly by itself. You cannot get replacement seals to allow you to repack bearings-WHY DODGE?

 

[6shotz]

96 Dodge

I would definatly check to see if any front end work has been done. With those miles I would hope you at least have new ball joints and a trac bar. Check tie rods also, those parts can get expencive if you have to do alot of front end work.



Steve