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My Fluidamper saga.

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48RE shifting problems "start in 2nd"?

Code PO868 Sluggish transmission

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Check the bolt heads. Unless things have changed, they are grade 12. 9 and should be torqued to 92 ft-lb. No torque and turn is used; that kind of bolt will have an angle mark on the head and the degrees shown, like <90. The bolt holes in the crank don't go all the way through the carnk; they are deep but blind.

From the 2005 and 2006 SM: 2. Install the crankshaft damper and bolts. Tighten bolts to 40 N·m (30 ft. lbs. ) torque, plus an additional 60°.

This is video of the internal movement of all CP3 Dodge applications... As you will see it always Stops @ 10 O clock always,once install it will stop open.
My Movie - YouTube

The location of the noise from the CP3 discussed in this thread is not even shown in your video.

Again, you know the internal workings of the CP3 as good as anyone but do nothing but cause confusion on anything outside of it, even if attached to it.

"Timing" the CP3 is a practice that has worked for many people, and is not masking anything inside the CP3 simply changing the position in the gear case for a smoother operation. It does not change, modify, or effect anything inside the CP3.
 
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Are any of you using the roll pins when mounting the FD? I know FD states they are only necessary in high RPM applications, but I wonder if possibly the folks with no noise used the pins and the ones with the noise didn't? Just thinking.
 
From the 2005 and 2006 SM: 2. Install the crankshaft damper and bolts. Tighten bolts to 40 N·m (30 ft. lbs. ) torque, plus an additional 60°.







The location of the noise from the CP3 discussed in this thread is not even shown in your video.



Again, you know the internal workings of the CP3 as good as anyone but do nothing but cause confusion on anything outside of it, even if attached to it.



"Timing" the CP3 is a practice that has worked for many people, and is not masking anything inside the CP3 simply changing the position in the gear case for a smoother operation. It does not change, modify, or effect anything inside the CP3.



Confusion... . Look in the the Mirror... You are the poster child. Prove that such Timing is factual. It will just go down another challenged YOU will weasel out of with keystrokes.







Sorry OP another thread Killed by the Keystroke King.
 
Confusion... . Look in the the Mirror... You are the poster child. Prove that such Timing is factual. It will just go down another challenged YOU will weasel out of with keystrokes.



Sorry OP another thread Killed by the Keystroke King.

Your so full of yourself it's comical. . Your being told time and time again that what your saying is not related but yet you won't even slow down to look at your posts. You even went so far to make a video to prove your point, yet is has NOTHING to do with the conversation. Thanks for the daily laugh!

The thread derailed here. Input is welcome, but at least know what the conversation is about.

Do some of your own research on the subject, you apparently have enough time on your hands to make comments you have zero knowledge of, so you should have enough time to educate yourself.

No way the CP3 is causing the noise (Unless its on its way out) There are 3 pistons that are constantly under pressure or Spring force,3 tappets that are driven by a cam that is rotated by the shaft ,which is supported by front and rear bushings. . Its quite. . I tried to post video ,but the sound was so quite you could not even hear it, the GP will whine but cannot be heard over engine combustion knock.
 
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Are any of you using the roll pins when mounting the FD? I know FD states they are only necessary in high RPM applications, but I wonder if possibly the folks with no noise used the pins and the ones with the noise didn't? Just thinking.



No roll pins on mine, just the factory pin on the crank. My noise was evident at low rpms, from idle to 2000.
 
AD It many steps above You. . At least It required More effort then Keystrokes. . Your invisible support awaits.

Laughing. . Hmmmm these 2 owners are trying to resolve what has been determine to be related to FD problem. Enough info has been dispense on your real motives and lack of concern.



Their are 100s of FD owners that have NOT had the Noise Got HO and PD have. So someone that has the FD with the Noise should swap. . its that simple,this way FD can be removed and the host being the problem or install.
 
Fellows, I also have a fluidampr that sounds like a cricket convention. It has got to go. Some of you guys know about 12 dillion times as much as I do, but I wish you would quit attacking each other. Say your piece and how you have arrived at that conclusion. If someone says something that you feel is incorrect, and you want to comment, can't you do it without getting into "politics"? Try, before the moderator has to jerk somebody's chain (horse talk) and we all lose. By the way, it won't hurt anybody's moxie to say "I don't know, but I want to learn" Mark
 
Installing a quiet FD from one trk onto another that is noisy would be only partially helpful.
I still don't want that noise on my truck no matter what the cause and I'm sure FD doesn't want their customers having this issue even if they aren't the root cause.
 
Mark31... Are you willing to allow someone to swap With you?



TC, yeah, I think I would. I kinda have reservations about what might be accomplished by doing it, though I think I might like to have Ivan's OK before doing something that might jeopardize any warranty. I believe (hope) he has the equipment and savvy to figure this out, and is therefore our best bet to find out what's going on. Mark
 
O I agree ... But debating by Keystrokes Proves Nothing. Many just cannot comprehend the frustration Problems that are Next to impossible to prove on test bench or reproduce.
 
TC, yeah, I think I would. I kinda have reservations about what might be accomplished by doing it, though I think I might like to have Ivan's OK before doing something that might jeopardize any warranty. I believe (hope) he has the equipment and savvy to figure this out, and is therefore our best bet to find out what's going on. Mark



Of course with FDs blessing. . This will make Good reading. Back in Oct 11 Customer purchased 80% 6. 7 CP3 form T&C,The unit was install and began to leak,It was remove and factory pump re-install,Yep it leaks on the test bench when it was returned,I replace the suction Valve, counter-bore the seat and replace O-ring and New plug. Re-tested,No leak I ran it for 10 minutes to confirm it was good to go,I said to myself I need to send it out to have it check on another machine BC it pass the 1st time on the 1st sale,OK it comes back with No leaks and Passed. So I shipped it to the customer again,all is well until the truck reaches running temp and is driven XX miles, So when he get back home and check the leak its not leaking#@$%! takes it back out drives it less then 5 miles No leak, leave it run for 30 minutes still not leaking. Next day drive it 20 miles and it starts leaking again. leaves it sit for 3 hrs drive it back Home No leak. I have sent New 80 over to him to replace the leaker.

No way are we able to get any CP3 up to running temp (engine temp) on Our bench or anyone I know off, SO WHEN THAT DAM PUMP GETS HERE I WILL BE THROWING IN IN THE RECYCLE PILE ASAP:)
 
AD It many steps above You. . At least It required More effort then Keystrokes. . Your invisible support awaits.
Laughing. . Hmmmm these 2 owners are trying to resolve what has been determine to be related to FD problem. Enough info has been dispense on your real motives and lack of concern.

Their are 100s of FD owners that have NOT had the Noise Got HO and PD have. So someone that has the FD with the Noise should swap. . its that simple,this way FD can be removed and the host being the problem or install.

Again the point misses you completely, thou not really surprised with your complete lack of attention to detail in your posts. Each and every time someone corrects or challenges your information you get defensive and start your keyboard war. You take every correction personally and pay zero attention to the fact that you may have been wrong, or unclear in your post. People make mistakes all the time, it's how they are handled that is important, and we all have a clear picture of how you do! It's a simple reevaluation of the question and answer, but you skip that and go on to the personal attacks. I would suggest re-reading the course of events in any number of threads, but I know you won't. There will simply be some comment that degrades your integrity further... Even Harvey will admit when he makes mistakes, and he is probably the most stubborn one of us on here.

The noise may not be the CP3 "timing" or "phasing", but that issue is known and sounds similar. The FD could easily make it more noticeable. Is it on every truck with a FD, no it's not, but there are quite a few in this thread with it. It's a feasible issue, and just shooting it down like it's not possible on any truck is just plain ignorant. It's even more ignorant to argue the point when you don't even read peoples posts to realize what they are saying.
 
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I installed a Fluidamper on my truck after Sheid Diesel Extravaganza in 2010. Have had no issues with it of any kind. I can't honestly say that I can tell any difference compared to the stock one although it was in good condition. From experience I am convinced that a bad dampener, OEM part or aftermarket is really bad for a crankshaft. Case in point, an inline 6 cyl. 71 series Detroit Diesel engine powered Euclid 25T off road haul truck, air brakes with a front of engine, bracket mounted air compressor running well. Threw the tandem belts off the compressor. Put new on, ran it for a few hours, belts off again. Put new Gates belts on, same problem. Pulleys all good and aligned, what the #@%$. Out of ideas, I was up on the fender watching the belts while the engine was slowly revved to the no-load speed and about 1900 rpm you could feel a bad vibration through the fender and the drive belts at this rpm range flailed around violently. No one could find the problem. I just by chance was looking at the front of the motor and noticed that the back side of the dampener looked kind of wet and it wasn't motor oil. Looked in the service manual to find that it was a "viscuous" dampener and whatever is in it is coming out. We replaced it and that solved the drive belt and vibration problem. How long it ran before the vibration got bad enough to throw the belts and how much did it stress the crank? Too much, it broke the crank a couple days later. I know the OEM dampener will not last so I am hoping the FD will last much longer.
 
1972JohnBody Customer Name Dave, Dave Has N14 it keep chewing up belts. . Calls and ask if I could look at it. . I said I don't work on big Iron anymore, but bring it to the shop in MV and I will take a look. I could not find anything wrong so I told Dave BC it keeps chewing up Belts,replace the dampener. . Well he said as I will make an appointment With Midwest for the repairs,Well that night Dave was returning form 111 and the entire front of motor exploded just North of the River on 35w. It was found to be defective dampener that caused the Problem. .



AD. . I have NO Enmity against You. . its what you tried to promote as factual when your knowledge is limited to the social network you belong too. When someone challenges the knowledge you pocess. . its you who turns to the personal attacks. . BC if you challenge the Knowledge of those who disagree YOU would lose (In Most cases)



AD. . You are the foremost promoter of filtration on CR. . But you have allowed the attention you have received to cloud your thinking. Their is more knowledge and understanding then just what is type on the social networks.
 
Hmmmm... looks like Dr Sheldon Cooper has joined the discussion. :eek:



I’m just commenting so we can get this up to 100 posts. Yes, I am that shallow, have no life and it helps with my OCD. Oo.
 
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