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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) My goat broke it's leg!

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Was driving home last night and for the fun of it, floored the throttle, 3rd gear, turbo blasting at 52 psi, 9,000 lb truck, a loud snapping sound, engine free wheeled to 2,700 rpms and truck stopped speeding up......:--)

Tried using other gears, reverse, nothing. Looked under truck, everything is in place. Tried 4wd, nothing. I can shift the gears without pushing clutch pedal and truck not moving.

Later this morning, scheduling a shop time to pull transmission out.

I think the input shaft snapped.

Nv4500 Transmission has 570,000k/357,000m.

This has been one tough transmission and I love it. Put on 30,000k/18,750m since putting the mods in my sig last may 2013.

I mainly do towing heavy loads, some drag racing, and some sled pulling.

The clutch doesn't always hold the power and not in sled pulling with the gear that I want to use.

I have mentioned several times to my buddies at home that I'm saving for a better clutch and input shaft. But now have to buy another 1 1/4" shaft if that's the part the broke until the funds becomes available.

It's funny that while I'm working on funds for a certain part, it breaks or quits before I do and becomes immediate priority. :rolleyes:
 
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Maybe you tore the hub out of the clutch although not likely on an OFE. Now's the time to get a 1.375" shaft and a new DD clutch.
You estimate your torque at 1,300ft-lbs?
 
Woodenhead: haven't dyno'd truck yet on a load dyno. The last time truck pulled 283 hp with 950 tq at the wheels. Now it's even higher.

Good possibility the hub broke as it's happened before with the factory clutch.

Gonna check with Peter of sbc.
 
Interesting. If that's the case, your torque/hp is more than 3:1 whereas typically you'll see around 2:1.
An OFE isn't intended for 1300ft-lbs, neither is a 1.25" input shaft. Installing another one of either would be wasted $$ I think.
Mike
 
Mike: my truck has always produced high tq to hp ratio. At the last dyno day we had, there were 5 cummins powered trucks including mine with hp within 291-300 hp at the time. None of them made over 600tq at the wheels while mine made near 800 tq. It's probably the nature of the 180 hp pump, I'm not sure, but the torque is enormous.

The turbo starts spooling down at 1,200 rpms and can produce 40 psi there. Max boost I've seen is 52 psi at 2,200 rpms.
 
What turbo are you running? I've got the 100 plate and 50 horse injectors and had to put my stock fuel plate back in to get my EGTs back under control. I need more air.
 
Cosmo: it's a stage 3 turbo kit with a 86mm wheel on a hx35 turbo. I bought it off of pure diesel power.

It did as advertised, 200°f drop in egt, few more psi in boost pressure, faster spooling and can allow a 12v to tow with 400 rwhp all day long. The differences between the stock compressor and this one is night and day.

I love it, well worth the $400 for the kit.

The truck doesn't go over 1,550°f at full power with 52 psi. And the egt is much more manageable.

A lot of times I can easily tow with plenty of power to haul heavy and keep the egt's at 1,250°f-1,350°f. The p7100 is adjusted as much as I can make it go without spending money on it.
 
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Woodenhead: looking at the mods in your sig for your 1996, how is the SBC FE handling that kind of power with pdr twins and stage 4 injectors?

They're not that much higher in rating compared to a OFE is it not?
 
I guess I should clarify, the twin kit is actually Jason Burtons (NW Customs) but the HX40 I used was one of the PDR modified units from way back.

The FE has held up to everything I've thrown at it (had 370s before the DDP4s) including towing plenty of stuff way heavier than I should have. I don't baby it but I'm not stupid about it either, I'm sure I could have wrecked it if I wanted too. It was still in decent shape when it came out.

That being said I think the FE has become the fuseable link so when I moved the 5600 over to the '98 it got a South Bend DD3250 at the same time as the '98 motor will be bombed at bit more than the '96 was.

The FE hooks up hard (aka grabby) so if you get one you'll want to get setup with the ability to use low range in 2wd for backing up trailers, if you have a 4x4.
 
Cosmo: it's a stage 3 turbo kit with a 86mm wheel on a hx35 turbo. I bought it off of pure diesel power.

It did as advertised, 200°f drop in egt, few more psi in boost pressure, faster spooling and can allow a 12v to tow with 400 rwhp all day long. The differences between the stock compressor and this one is night and day.

I love it, well worth the $400 for the kit.

The truck doesn't go over 1,550°f at full power with 52 psi. And the egt is much more manageable.

A lot of times I can easily tow with plenty of power to haul heavy and keep the egt's at 1,250°f-1,350°f. The p7100 is adjusted as much as I can make it go without spending money on it.

I'm seeing the stage 3 kit with a 60mm wheel, $335 plus I imagine it would be somewhat foolish not to add the $105 for the rebuild kit while you're in there.
 
Cosmo: that's the one. $335 plus tax etc. 60ind/86exd.

I did my own machining and left the turbo as is as it was in good shape still.
 
Transmission is now out. It's not looking good. The shaft exploded, taking pilot bearing, and the piece that hold the input shaft in place on transmission which also holds the release bearing shattered.

The organic side of disc is not worth reusing but the Feramic side looks ok.

Looks like maybe a FE disc with larger shaft would be needed.
 
Cosmo: I had to machine the housing just a little bit to make room to accept the larger wheel. Tried to upload a photo which is a good example but it's not working .
 
Did it come with detailed instructions for machining, or did you have to figure it out yourself? A buddy of mine is interested, and can get the metal work done at work for a few beers. I'm interested too, but I'm going to wait to see how it goes for him. And I'm going to have to start ferreting money away and save up for it. The wife doesn't get it.
 
Cosmo: it comes with instructions. I used a pretty large lathe that can hold the exhaust side of turbo without taking it apart.
 
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