Attention: TDR Forum Junkies I know there are detailed instructions here, but I used a few different threads to help me decide to do this. I've never done injectors before, and this was suprisingly easy IMO.
You want to start with a clean engine compartment, especially around the injector line/valve cover area. Disconnect both batteries.
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First, undo the oil dipstick, and bolts holding down the intake and heating grid assembly, and stuff rags into the intake, and boost line.
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Here you can see my valve cover bolts are loosened. The valve cover can be a little tricky tol remove. Tilt the cover 45° or so, and remove the rear bolt, makes life easier.
You can also see I've unscrewed the injector line retaining nuts, and slid them up the fuel lines. I've also removed all fuel line hold down bracket bolts as well.
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Here is injector #1, seated in it's well. If you look up at #2, you can see that the bridge is still installed. You only need to remove the left bolt, the other side of the bridge is slotted and will slide out.
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Loosening the fuel line brackets allowed me to move the lines, ever so gently away from the injector feed tubes. Be careful, the last thing you want is a bent/kinked line. After I pulled the lines back, I used a small screwdriver to pry the threads of the feed tube out, and to pull then out of the head an inch or so. The injector will NOT come out unless you do this
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Here, I've used an intake bolt, and threaded it into the top of the injector. You can fashion a mini slide hammer if you want, but it wasn't needed in my case.
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I used a pair of bent needle nose pliers, and leveraged it against the valve cradles to "pop" the injector out.
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And here is #1 removed! I was very happy at this point.
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The new, 100 hp internal bling!
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Use a bit of grease to hold the copper washer on the new injectors when you insert them into the head. Also, on removing the old injectors, make sure the old copper washer comes out along with the injectors. All of mine came out fine. You can also see my 19mm crows foot I used on the rear injector line retaining nuts.
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At this point, my camera died. I apologize for that.
To reseat the injectors, make sure the fuel hole is lined up with the feeder tube, and tap the bolt to make it seat. Remove bolt, and replace bridge.
#5 and 6 injectors require creativity to remove, and replace. I used a wrecking bar to remove them.
After they are all installed, replace the valve cover, and button everything up. Make sure all toold are removed from engine compartment, and re-connect the batteries.
Some say to leave a few lines loose, and to crank the engine until fuel comes out.
I didn't do that, I tightened everything up, and bumped the starter. This caused the fuel pump to run for 30 seconds. I repeated 4 times, then held the accelerator pedal half way and started it up. It ran rough for maybe 5 seconds, and then all was fine.
You want to start with a clean engine compartment, especially around the injector line/valve cover area. Disconnect both batteries.
#adFirst, undo the oil dipstick, and bolts holding down the intake and heating grid assembly, and stuff rags into the intake, and boost line.
#adHere you can see my valve cover bolts are loosened. The valve cover can be a little tricky tol remove. Tilt the cover 45° or so, and remove the rear bolt, makes life easier.
You can also see I've unscrewed the injector line retaining nuts, and slid them up the fuel lines. I've also removed all fuel line hold down bracket bolts as well.
#adHere is injector #1, seated in it's well. If you look up at #2, you can see that the bridge is still installed. You only need to remove the left bolt, the other side of the bridge is slotted and will slide out.
#adLoosening the fuel line brackets allowed me to move the lines, ever so gently away from the injector feed tubes. Be careful, the last thing you want is a bent/kinked line. After I pulled the lines back, I used a small screwdriver to pry the threads of the feed tube out, and to pull then out of the head an inch or so. The injector will NOT come out unless you do this
#adHere, I've used an intake bolt, and threaded it into the top of the injector. You can fashion a mini slide hammer if you want, but it wasn't needed in my case.
#adI used a pair of bent needle nose pliers, and leveraged it against the valve cradles to "pop" the injector out.
#adAnd here is #1 removed! I was very happy at this point.
#adThe new, 100 hp internal bling!
#adUse a bit of grease to hold the copper washer on the new injectors when you insert them into the head. Also, on removing the old injectors, make sure the old copper washer comes out along with the injectors. All of mine came out fine. You can also see my 19mm crows foot I used on the rear injector line retaining nuts.
#adAt this point, my camera died. I apologize for that.
To reseat the injectors, make sure the fuel hole is lined up with the feeder tube, and tap the bolt to make it seat. Remove bolt, and replace bridge.
#5 and 6 injectors require creativity to remove, and replace. I used a wrecking bar to remove them.
After they are all installed, replace the valve cover, and button everything up. Make sure all toold are removed from engine compartment, and re-connect the batteries.
Some say to leave a few lines loose, and to crank the engine until fuel comes out.
I didn't do that, I tightened everything up, and bumped the starter. This caused the fuel pump to run for 30 seconds. I repeated 4 times, then held the accelerator pedal half way and started it up. It ran rough for maybe 5 seconds, and then all was fine.
I hear the Jammers are pretty good but you should consider the Mach series from Formula 1 also.
