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My Ksb-1 Sucks!!!

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CATCHER ECM only, how's it run???

Backpressure gauge question

The boost you are seeing is about right for your setup..... In fact if you were to see much more boost thanwhat you are I would recommend wastegating the turbo. It has been my experience that the B-1 makes max HP around 43#. Using a variable wastegate controller while dynoing this is the point I made max HP, as boost went above this level HP dropped across the board with it.



As for the flutter, the KS models are known to do this, some trucks are worse than others. You might try wastegating the turbo as I have seen this help out with the flutter but not always. Personally I feel the KS models hae too tight of an exhaust housing. Normally when I set up a truck with a tight TC I go with a B-1-2 if the customer is really concerned over lag. In my own truck I run the regular housing, tow alot, and love the turbo.



Good luck,



Doug
 
Ron A, I hope so...



JetPilot, A lot of people running my setup have said that they are getting 48-50 lbs at sea level (that's where I am) with this turbo.

The flutter is at 25-30lbs. Are you saying I should wastegate it to below that level? I hope not cause my stock turbo did a lot better than that. I don't know a lot about this stuff yet so please explain. It is a KSB-1-2 actually. I don't love it at all so far. I sure as hell am not seeing the $1600 benefit over my stock turbo with the turbomaster... :(
 
AVSTAR,



My experience with a comp box and mach 2's the boost is about right. Also please remember that higher boost #'s don't always mean more HP. Like I said before every setup and turbo has a sweet spot that makes max HP, more or less boost than that amount will lower HP. Every truck that I have dynoed using a B series charger made max HP between 37-43 psi.



I am not saying to wastegate the turbo down to 25-30 psi but rather when using a wastegate some of the pressure is being bled off well below the max pressure set. This is why this sometimes helps. The KS turbo's do flutter on a lot of trucks.....



The B-1-2 is not a KS model. The KS models have the smallest exhaust housings, follwed by the B-1-2 and then a full B-1. So the B-1-2 is between the KSB-1 and a full B-1.



What egt reductions are you seeing compared to your original turbo? This should be where you notice the most improvement..... Again the larger exhaust housings help with lowering egt's on the top end.



Hope this helps,



Doug
 
If you haven't even talked to the dealer who sold you the turbo why would you post on a public forum that the turbo is crap? Thats not a good way to do business, as both sides will suffer.
 
Doug

It seems like the EGT's are not too bad but I drive to keep them down. I know that I can get them way up there if I just hit 5x5 and full throttle for a while. I'll do some test runs. I was able to keep them down towing thanks to the water/meth and easy driving. It doesn't seem that the new turbo is much improvement over the stock turbo as far as EGT's to be honest.

Thanks for the input.
 
F8LDOSE said:
If you haven't even talked to the dealer who sold you the turbo why would you post on a public forum that the turbo is crap? Thats not a good way to do business, as both sides will suffer.



Actually, I did talk to the dealer about 3 weeks ago and told him what my boost numbers were. He said that was weird as he is one of the people that told me I would get 48-50lbs out of this turbo. I was trying to decide on either this or twins and figured that 48-50 would do. I'm not getting that. He said he would find out what was up and get back to me and I haven't heard anything yet. A little frustrating since I have dumped a decent amount of money into this truck and have been disappointed with two of the most major mods.

It's a little discouraging and I was looking for advice from others with experience.

Thanks for YOUR input though, it's helped a lot. :rolleyes:
 
This may or may not be relevant so here goes anyway. I'm running a B1-04 (possibly a B1-2-04, hard for me to clarify) and I was told that it was wastegated at 38 lbs. I couldn't get past 28 lbs loaded uphill and wot. No matter how much fuel I threw at it with the TST. I hooked the wastegate up to a controllable air supply to verify gate opening and lbs required. Turns out it was cracking at 28 and apparently that was enough to stop boost rise dead in it's tracks and by 38 it was full open. I threw in an adjustable TST elbow that I modified to bleed off 10 lbs and allow more adjustment via the screw and viola'! 55 lbs so easily that I had to back the adjustment out to lower it a bunch! Just my experience for what it's worth...



Richard
 
robertyoke said:
astar, what altitude were you at when pulling grade? the higher you are the less boost you will see.



I was climbing from around 2000 ft but I have run it trying to get the boost to climb down here at sea level, loaded and still 40psi.



Gypsyman, Mines not wastegated.
 
ASTAR said:
Actually, I did talk to the dealer about 3 weeks ago and told him what my boost numbers were. He said that was weird as he is one of the people that told me I would get 48-50lbs out of this turbo. I was trying to decide on either this or twins and figured that 48-50 would do. I'm not getting that. He said he would find out what was up and get back to me and I haven't heard anything yet. A little frustrating since I have dumped a decent amount of money into this truck and have been disappointed with two of the most major mods.

It's a little discouraging and I was looking for advice from others with experience.

Thanks for YOUR input though, it's helped a lot. :rolleyes:



Don't worry about the boost #s worry about the EGTs. If EGTs are not over 12-1300* pre turbo the housing is properly sized and you are making enough boost. The turbo may take as much as 1000mi to break in (usually sooner 2-500 for a single) but you will see more boost, faster spool, and a slight egt drop after the breakin happens. On my twin setups its much more pronounced than on a single.



FWIW,

Mark
 
Mark_Kendrick said:
Don't worry about the boost #s worry about the EGTs. If EGTs are not over 12-1300* pre turbo the housing is properly sized and you are making enough boost. The turbo may take as much as 1000mi to break in (usually sooner 2-500 for a single) but you will see more boost, faster spool, and a slight egt drop after the breakin happens. On my twin setups its much more pronounced than on a single.

FWIW,
Mark
Good point. Boost doesn't matter all that much. Heck, you can blcok of your intake and both boost AND EGT go off the charts.

FWIW, the less boost it takes to keep EGT under control, the more efficient the setup is. You don't WANT high boost numbers. Boost is a measurement of the opposition to airflow compared to the potential airflow. The more boost, the more opposition. If the engine was using the air as fast as it was being pumped in, you'd have no boost at all. m

When I think of efficiency, I first think of J. R. Adkins' modified turbos. Trucks with his turbos have dynoed some impressive numbers with remarkably little boost. Like dynoing over 500hp with only 40psi.

Take it FWIW.

justin
 
Hohn,



Good point..... When tuning for Fall Brawl I was able to make 574 HP with just 37# boost. By upping the boost to 42 I only brought up HP to 576. All this with a single turbo that is both streetable and can be used for towing.



Doug
 
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