Mysterious electric drain

[Dave2385]

I have a 1999 Dodge 2nd generation.5.9 diesel.
Got back after a trip, 2 days later the batteries were dead. Replaced batteries, alternator, and no success.
When you turn the truck on and turn off all factory gauges stay energized. And when you (jiggle) turn key on and off they go to zero. I replaced ignition switch and no change. Some mentioned it could be relay/ fuse? I don't know where to begin. Anyone have any advice?

Placerville Dave

 

[Iron Duke II]

Did you disconnect the negative battery terminals, then locate and check the 140 amp fuse link in the power distribution box on drivers side inner fender, which I understood was used on the 2nd gen w/24 valve trucks?

Looks like:
https://www.moparpartsinc.com/p/Dod...MIhda5vN_X_gIVIy2tBh3lUwnIEAQYASABEgIjrPD_BwE

 

[GAmes]

All the wire diagrams you need. Might even be some troubleshooting procedures.
1999 Dodge Ram Factory Service Manual (genosgarage.com) If you have a wealth of printer paper
1999 Dodge Ram Factory Service Manual CD (genosgarage.com)

 

[Dave2385]

Did you disconnect the negative battery terminals, then locate and check the 140 amp fuse link in the power distribution box on drivers side inner fender, which I understood was used on the 2nd gen w/24 valve trucks?

Looks like:
https://www.moparpartsinc.com/p/Dod...MIhda5vN_X_gIVIy2tBh3lUwnIEAQYASABEgIjrPD_BwE

Iron Duke II ,
Going out to pick up the 140 amp. link and I'll keep you posted!
Thanks Again

 

[Dave2385]

All the wire diagrams you need. Might even be some troubleshooting procedures.
1999 Dodge Ram Factory Service Manual (genosgarage.com) If you have a wealth of printer paper
1999 Dodge Ram Factory Service Manual CD (genosgarage.com)

Perfect,
Thanks Again

 

[Dave2385]

Iron Duke II,
Got the 140 amp fuse link and installed. nothing changed. Would you have any other suggestions?

Thanks Again,
Placerville Dave

 

[petersonj]

When you turn the truck on and turn off all factory gauges stay energized. And when you (jiggle) turn key on and off they go to zero. I replaced ignition switch and no change.

You say no change here. Do you mean that you still have to jiggle the ignition switch to make all of the factory gauges go to zero? Or, do you mean that the batteries still go dead after a couple of days? Or, do you mean both?

- John

 

[Dave2385]

John ,
Still have to turn the key on and off 3 to 4 times each time to zero out the gauges, The batteries remain fully charged at this point. (Tested for 5 days)
The problem is if I just turn the ignition off like normal the gauges remain in that position and drain the battery's completely in 2 days?
Any Support would be appreciated.
Thanks Again

 

[brucejohnson]

John ,
Still have to turn the key on and off 3 to 4 times each time to zero out the gauges, The batteries remain fully charged at this point. (Tested for 5 days)
The problem is if I just turn the ignition off like normal the gauges remain in that position and drain the battery's completely in 2 days?
Any Support would be appreciated.
Thanks Again

Just for clarification on my part, a quick question: Did you change the Ignition Switch (electrical part) or Ignition lock cylinder (key part), or both?

 

[petersonj]

That would be a good question. I think a failure of either part could match his symptoms.

- John

 

[brucejohnson]

That would be a good question. I think a failure of either part could match his symptoms.

- John

John, and David,
I don't have a 1999 specific manual, but I do have the 1998/1998.5 and 2002 manuals. Shouldn't be too much difference other than the halo light for the key.
The 1998 shows some Cautions not to do certain things with the lock linkages. A few "do this" type of things to integrate/align the mechanics.
The symptoms point to worn switch mechanisms. May need both pieces - electrical contacts and lock cylinder. Or, just a proper sequence of installation.
All the instruments appear to be powered through the PCM. The PCM gets its power through the Ignition Switch in the Run position. As far as I could determine, there are no relays or switches to hang up, other than the Ignition Switch. Potentially a short across a couple wires flexing in the steering column, but that would be less likely than the ignition switch. Then there is Murphy. I follow the KISS principle and go from there.
Hard to analyze without eyes-on and hands-on troubleshooting. Tab a into slot b, then set lock pin c type of thing; and, just to keep stuff exciting, DON'T EVER TOUCH THESE OTHER THINGIES.

 

[Dave2385]

John & Bruce,
First of all, Thank you for all your help & Support!
I did replace the ignition switch only, and not the lock / key cylinder?
This was very helpful and heading out to get the lock cylinder.
I'll keep you posted!
Thanks Again

 

[Iron Duke II]

Sorry for the late reply, however I have no other information at the moment.

 

[Dave2385]

Iron Duke II ,
Thanks Again I'll keep you posted.
Thanks Again to everyone for the support!

 

[Iron Duke II]

These links include 1998 and 2001 SMs.
http://spillage.net/Public/98 Dodge Ram Truck SM.pdf
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwD...M1E/edit?resourcekey=0-neUBOgpHjVKc2bFldNYtBA

 

[brucejohnson]

These links include 1998 and 2001 SMs.
http://spillage.net/Public/98 Dodge Ram Truck SM.pdf
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BwD...M1E/edit?resourcekey=0-neUBOgpHjVKc2bFldNYtBA

Iron Duke II,

Thanks for posting these manuals. Sure makes it easier to see the details for component alignment/positioning of the lock tumbler, ignition switch, and locking mechanisms, as well as the plethora of other things as the needs come up.

For quick reference relating to this thread:

The 1998 manual has the ignition switch and tumbler lock removal and installation instructions on paged 8D-24 thru 8D-28. (PDF pages 419 thru 422)
Ignition Switch Wiring Schematic on page 8W-10-16. (PDF page 624)

The 2001 manual has the ignition switch and tumbler lock R & R on pages 19-10 thru 19-13. (PDF pages 1603 thru 1606).
Ignition Switch Wiring Schematic on page 8W-10-22. (PDF page 779)

 

[Dave2385]

Iron Duke II and Bruce,
Thanks for the link , I printed the pages for the Tumbler lock removal & install.
Hope to change it out this weekend!
Thanks Again

 

[brucejohnson]

Iron Duke II and Bruce,
Thanks for the link , I printed the pages for the Tumbler lock removal & install.
Hope to change it out this weekend!
Thanks Again

Before committing to the tumbler lock, check the original out for all functions and positions of the lock cylinder to ignition switch. (Follow the manual's instructions to ensure proper assembly, alignment and function). IF the tumbler unit functions and aligns it may not require changing. IF you end up having to change the tumbler lock you may end up with keys for the door locks and keys for the ignition on your key ring.
Now would be a time, with the switch out, to check the switch's contacts with switch positions verifying contact/position functions using a multimeter and the switch contact schematic in the service manual. Also, wouldn't hurt to confirm the part number you were sold is the correct one.

 

[Dave2385]

Bruce,
Great Ideas,
Thanks Again

 

[brucejohnson]

Gosh. I hate it when I think too much, which is too often, 'cause I am often considered as an over-thinker. My organic calculator might be slower than a fancy electronic one, but I often use better logic. When I was working and dealing with IT programmers they often would exclaim "I hate you!" as I would somewhat easily point out the problem in their sub-routines.
Anyway, without having the pieces-parts (ignition lock cylinder and ignition switch) to see and feel their functions, I am visioning the lock cylinder as the device that positions the switch in each of the modes. How does it feel when rotating? Smooth, tight, loose? Does the position feel off from the norm?
Darn them questions...