Mysterious electric drain

[Topzide]

The ignition cylinder is the easiest to re-key to the original key. You should be able to remove a c-clip to remove the key cylinder which allows you to change out the tumblers to match up to key. Any good dealer would be able to assist and if you have a walk in locksmith shop, they would be able to also. Around here, a walk in locksmith shop is no more, all mobile! We did this all the time in the dealership were we also had the door cylinder caps to do re-keying.

 

[Dave2385]

Bruce,
You crack me up! I attempt to over think things also.
I'm the original owner of the truck 23 years old now and 370,000 and like new condition.
The switch seems smooth when turning, never an issue with it ever?
One additional thought was since new when starting cold the AMP. Gauge was always slow in coming up to the middle 14 amps, I believe due to the heaters.
It is slow now even when engine is warm about 30 seconds (could be and I'm overthinking again) Plan to change the switch tomorrow.
I'll keep you posted,
Thanks Again

 

[brucejohnson]

What!!?? We all know it n-e-v-e-r gets cold in the Central Valley!
Both my previous Gen 2s (98.5 & 02) acted similar in amperage display. Add an altitude over 9.000 feet and they had a mind of their own when cold...maybe it was me hallucinating due to the lack of dense oxygen.
Anyway, best of luck. Hope all goes well with the installation. Keep us posted.

 

[petersonj]

One additional thought was since new when starting cold the AMP. Gauge was always slow in coming up to the middle 14 amps, I believe due to the heaters.

Both my previous Gen 2s (98.5 & 02) acted similar in amperage display

I know you both probably know this, but just in case others do not and read this, I am pointing out that the "amp gauge' mentioned here is really a voltage gauge.

The alternator is putting out far more than "14 amps" for recovering the batteries after starting the engine. When the ignition switch is turned on, the grid heaters cycle on while the "Wait to Start" lamp is lit (drawing about 200 amps for the duration). The starter draws about 600 amps of current continuously while cranking the engine. Once the engine starts and the alternator replenishes the batteries, then the battery voltage will climb to around 14 volts and stay there while the engine is running - unless, of course, the grid heaters are post cycling.

- John

 

[brucejohnson]

Yep. Knew it. Thanks for reinforcing and clarifying a common boo-boo. Gauge "low" (alternator working overtime - high current) after cold start. Takes some time to crawl back up to "middle" - (Alternator gets a breather - less load). Fluctuates when really cold from "low" to "middle" for a period of time.

For education and entertainment purposes...

 

[petersonj]

You have that memorized..., right?

- John

 

[brucejohnson]

You have that memorized..., right?

- John

30 to 50+ years ago I sure did. Used it a lot. Now it's flickering broken pieces piled on the heap of jumbled background stuff stuffed in the organic calculator.

 

[Dave2385]

Still have the issue of turning the key on and off to drop / zero the gauges out to avoid battery drain?
Upon start up the alternator still takes 3 to 5 minutes to provide the 14 volts the check gauges light is on until then also.
Today the check engine light came on, checked the code and P0122 came up low voltage to throttle position sensor?
Resent the code and light stays on, wonder if this could be the problem all along?
Any one have any Ideas?
Thanks Again

 

[Topzide]

Just picked up a Power Probe 3 the other day. This thing is really going to help with electrical issues! You can reach anywhere on the truck with it! It will show whether a ground or hot and if hot, show the voltage. You can power components with it, like a relay or a light bulb and fan motor up to around 10 amps. You can even power trailer light through the trailer connector! This will be my go to tool when hunting down electrical issues now. You can clip onto battery or use in 12v power port. When I was hooked on battery on drivers sdie, was able to go to back of truck and have about 5 feet left to play! Wonder if this would help confirm the low power at TPS? Have you been able to have a meter on the output terminal of the alternator to confirm voltage levels? It sounds almost like there is some sort of corrosion tracking that might be back feeding circuits. Keep plugging away and give updates as it might trigger someone to remember a fix! Good luck, standing by for updates.