Nag, nag, nag, ... get a fuel pressure gauge

[KLockliear]

I would recommend mechanically isolated mechanical gauges. Then it's just a matter of black or white.



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[CFAR]

Does DD now offer an isolator that doesn't need to be on the same level as the gauge?

 

[KLockliear]

We do supply a mechanical isolator with those gauge kits. It's best to have them as high as possible. We mount them to the cowl lip above the firewall.

 

[snowracer69]

Awww.... who needs an isolator?



1 year and counting... no fuel leaks (knock on wood), and gauge works perfectly!



Josh

 

[CFAR]

Ditto, 2 years for me.

 

[KLockliear]

More of a liability thing for us. Straight mechanical would work, but we don't want to sell something that puts fuel in the cab.

 

[snowracer69]

I understand it from your point of view, and have nothing against those that do it...



For me though, being the cheap a$$ that I am, it just made sense to run the fuel into the cab and hopefully (knock on wood again) forget about it. Needle valve is there just in case though.



I have read many more horror stories of the isolators going tits-up and causing problems then I have of diesel leaking in the cab (1 I believe).



Josh

 

[KLockliear]

Depends on the isolator, but yes, they can.



The one we use definitely wasn't the first we tested.

 

[C. Harlan]

always remember... be a cheap @ss, it will come back to bite you in the long run! spend a little more now, than alot more later... I dont want to jinx your luck or anything, but just think about next time you want to take a shortcut...



-Chris-

 

[snowracer69]

I think about it every time I want to take a short cut and weigh the decisions and the outcomes in my head.



Mechanical boost gauge w/ fuel in cab:

Good: Cheap, fast install, accurate readings, no worries of isolators or $100 senders failing.

Bad: Chance of fuel in the cab (that can be shut off almost instantaneously w/ a 1/4 turn of a needle valve), chance of gauge failing (slim to none?).



Mechanical w/ isolator:

Good: No fuel in cab

Bad: Isolator craps out, have fuel in cab, and possibly bad liquid (antifreeze?) making it's way downstream into the injection pump/engine, more expensive



Electric w/ sender:

Good: One wire into cab (two maybe?)

Bad: Expensive!!! Sender goes bad, and there goes even more $$$. Gauges not always accurate, and can't always see something going downhill in time.



All in all, in my head, the boost gauge with fuel in the cab won out. It was the least $$$ and seamed to be the best and easiest thing to do at the time. It's working great (knock on wood) and should continue to do so in the future.



Josh

 

[Joe G.]

I use a Westach 0 - 40 PSI eletronic. It replaced a mechanical that decided to leak in the cab. The mechanical didn't look good anyway. I left the needle valve that I used with the mechanical gauge in place. It reads the same as the machanical gauge did in the same conditions. I've had it for a couple of years now which is about 50K miles or so. No problems. It looks good and matches the rest of my gauges.

 

[cap-n-cray]

Josh



I am using the same gage with no problems. I did re-label it to Fuel Oil. I used braided stainless steel for my lines. Have a shut off valve under the hood. I talked to Autometer and they said the presure gages are all the same from oil to boost. 10K on mine.



Cary





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[illflem]

The way I look at running diesel into the cab is if I can run water pipes in the walls and ceiling of my house and not worry about them leaking I'm doing just fine.

If my water plumbing skills resulted in leaks I'd have second thoughts about running fuel into the cab.

One of the main causes of leaks in both types of systems stems from overtightening fittings.

 

[CFAR]

I thought all you diesel heads loved the smell of diesel? Especially in the morning.