Need 1 Inch Lift For Back of Truck

[Big MAK]

Leveled the truck yesterday; put 2 1/2 inches up front -- decided to go with quality "donuts" (actually a sleeve) to insert at the springs. Was contemplating new springs but decided inserts and sticking with stock springs made more sense. Rancho 9000s all around. Rides great and love the look. Problem is; it's PERFECTLY level. 20 1/2 front, 20 1/2 rear. When I put the trailer on the nose will be too high. I'd like to put 1 inch in the rear and then it would be barely nose high with the trailer -- or 1/2 inch rear then airbags. Either way; I need to add just a little height to the rear. Any ideas? I'm inclined to get some custom blocks cut since it's such a mild height addition.

I REALLY like the look and feel without the nose dive position. I had to tip my seat back forward to see where I was going; it was nearly reclined; and I know I'm going to enjoy not having the headlights in the ground directly in front of the truck.

Also ordered Alcoa LTS wheels and new Michelins all around -- a GOOD DAY! #ad
#ad
. Finally decided to commit to stock sized wheels and tires; I like my gearing and power and don't want to mess it up. Went with the aluminum Alcoas thinking less unsprung weight may improve handling a little too.

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Big MAK
98. 5 ISB 5spd 4x4 Quad Cab 3500, 275s and Original PowerMax
A "WARRANTY FREE" ZONE
https://www.turbodieseltrucks.com


[This message has been edited by Mark Kitchell (edited 05-30-2001). ]

 

[DBCooper]

I had the same problem you do and ended up building my own blocks for the rear that were 1 1/2 inches taller. I had custom U bolts bent up for me at a local truck shop. Project cost about 75. 00. Works perfect.

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'98 QC 4X4 LWB Auto, 3. 54 LS's Leveled with 2" Skyjackers in the front, and bone stock everything else... so far.

 

[jt1]

My 01 2500 QC had 1" blocks under the rear springs which I took out to lower the rear end a little. You could probably get them from your dealer, or I have a set I'd sell CHEAP. Don't know if they would work on a 3500 or not, let me know if your interested and I'll get you them dimensions. 3500 springs may be a little wider.

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01 2500 QC w/leather,2wd,5 spd,SB,Flame Red,EZ, plus 7 other Dodge/Cummins in my business.

 

[Cooker]

What brand/product did you use to level out the truck?

IMO Your best bet is to leave the rear ride height alone and install either a set of airbags, or the Roadmaster Active Suspension.

I have bags on the truck now, but I'm thinking I may remove them when I put on the RAS I have awaiting installation. I'm not sure yet.

You said you have Alcoa LTS wheels on the way? What do they look like?

 

[Big MAK]

Does the Roadmaster increase the height? By how much?

Alcoa LTS: "5 Star Pattern" -- look more like 5 triangles to me but that's what they call them.
http://www.alcoawheels.com/light/lituratur/index. asp

 

[Cooker]

The Roadmaster do not increase the height. But they will keep the truck level when you add a moderate amount of weight to the rear (ie a few hundred pounds of trailer tounge weight).

Mr. Bob is/was a TDR member who distributes the RAS systems. His number is (877) 543-7563. You might give him a call to see if he can better answer any questions you have.

-Ryan

 

[pcorssmit]

I'm in the same boat. I put in 2 1/2" coil spacers, now the truck is perfectly level, which is what I thought I wanted, turns out I just wanted it bigger. I want to raise the back about 1 1/4", which means going from a 4 3/4" lift block (OE) to t 6". The biggest aftermarket ones I've been able to find ar 5 1/2". My price was around $35 for just the blocks, I removed my factory overloads so my OE u-bolts are long enough. '93 Dodges had 6" blocks, but I haven't found any used ones and the local dealer reports that they are made of solid gold. If a 3/4" lift is enough for you, I'd get the 5 1/2" block, available from any 4 wheel drive shop, try 4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers. Keep in mind that increasing the block height will increase axle wrap, I plan to build some traction bars when I get a chance.

I also have the Roadmasters, and agree that Mr. Bob is very helpfull over the phone. Seems like a good guy.

DBCooper, did you just make your blocks out of a solid chunk of steel? I've been considering the DIY route if I can't find any 6" blocks.

Pete


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'97 2500 CC 4X4 5spd Sport
'83 K5 Blazer 350 TBI (ex 6. 2), 39. 5 TSLs, 3" lift, Dana 60/GM 14 blt, Detroits

 

[DBCooper]

pcorssmit, I made them out of 3"X6"X3/8" steel rectangular tubing with 3/8" top and bottom plate, and two 3/8" "stiffeners" welded inside each. As for the bump stops, I cut a piece of 2"X4"X1/4" rectangular tubing the same shape as stock and welded onto the sides at the same angle as stock and at the stock distance from the frame. I used 3/4" round headed bolts (cap bolts with the outside dia. of the head, not the threads is 3/4") as axle locating pins. This is where many of the "one size fits all" type of blocks will screw you. The pin on the Dodges is huge compared to the others and may alow axle movement. I haven't had any problems with axle wrap yet, but it's stock with small tires. I also kept the overloads, so the longer U bolts were in order. By the way, your Blazer sounds cool. I have a '78 with D44 8 lug in the front, 14 bolt in back, sm465 trans with a 205 Xfer behind it. Fact tach dash, AC tilt bla bla. Fun truck, but is for sale since I bought the CTD. Hope the description of the blocks helps.
Dan

 

[pcorssmit]

Thanks, sounds similar to what I have in mind for building some. Hadn't given much thought to the bump stops, don't see much need for them. I might add some rings for the u-bolts to pass through just for peace of mind. Good to know about the large centering pins, I remember seeing them now (from when I put in the Roadmasters). Mark, keep in mind this centering pin differance if you go aftermarket.

You may not notice the axle wrap as bad with the auto, it's pretty bad on mine. I run 255/85R16s.

I won't tie up server space with a pic of the Blazer since it's way off topic, but go here to see it: http://www.off-road.com/chevy/readers_rides/pete.jpg

Pete

 

[lawdog]

Mark,
I understand what you are saying about dropping the rear with a trailer, I also just put in the daystar coil spacers, and am concerned with dropping in the rear. My suggestion is the factory 6" blocks. All the dodges I have seen have the bump stop arm attached to the block. You most likely will NOT find an aftermarket block with the bump stop arm. If you do go with a custom made block, I would suggest making it a touch bigger than the factory block, so there is good support. I also recommend buying longer center pins for the spring pack and bolting the custom made block directly into the spring pack. It is real scary when you have stacked blocks, and they come apart. Would not want to put that much torque to stacked blocks, unless the short custom was bolted into the spring pack.

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2000 QC SHORT BED 4X4, 24 VALVE W/ 275 HP INJECTORS, 3. 54 GEARS W/ POSI, AUTO, BLACK WITH EVERYTHING EXCEPT LEATHER,285/75R16 KELLY SAFARI AWR, RAIDER NOMAD CAB HIGH CAP,FACTORY RAZ STEREO W/ STEERING WHEEL CONTROLS, KENWOOD 848 AMP, KENWOOD EXCELON 6X9 IN DOORS AND KENWOOD EXCELON 6IN. ROUND DUAL-MAGS IN REAR DOORS, MTX FACTORY FIT BOX W/ 2-10"SUBS UNDER REAR SEAT

2001 ARCTIC CAT ZR800 TWIN LE BLACK... . Totalled 03-09-01 at 90-100 mph. Ambulance ride and 2 months off work, and a new 2002 Arctic Cat ZR 500 LE Green now in garage

 

[Big MAK]

Agreed on the "avoid stacked blocks". I'll try to track down the six inch factory blocks. We have a big truck salvage yard in town -- I'll go look around.

Thanks about the axle wrap warning; hadn't thought about that. Bombing is always the same ehh? One thing always leads to another whether it's engine or suspension...

 

[Hammer]

Mark,,Don't you mean witht the new Alcoa's rotating weight and not unsprung weight???,,Well known formula that racers use in this case and it applies here is,for every 1 lb of rotating weight removed=7 hp,,Now I can not say wether its a tried and true deal,but I can say this,,In both of my race cars,1st the drag car-a lighter wheel and aluminum driveshaft make up a couple thousandth's in e. t. ,and sometimes in a straight up class race or record run you need to have this in your bag of tricks,2nd-the sprint car-As anyone who knows this kind of racing thrives on lightweight parts and exotic metals for HP,titanium drivelines,lightest weight wheels ever(there is a HUGH difference between the wheels of today and just a few years ago),,Can all this be applied to our beloved Rams,yes,cost efficent,not all the idea's,,The trick for our trucks is the lightest and strongest wheel,that will carry the load we want and still look the way we want,will help in fuel milage and rear wheel HP,,Now want another idea,moly driveshaft's,,They are still lighter than stock and are strong enough to handle the abuse we give them and are relatively reasonable to have made,,Not only that it give you the added option of having a spare if you pull at all and would ever twist one apart,,One thing I do not understand though is,why level your truck?,,Two things come into mind here to me,1-nose down attitude helps the frontal area slice into the wind at its nose thus helping with fuel milage and less chance of a frontal air push(nose dancing in the wind) and 2-While I certainly am no supporter of DC by any means(especially after to many screw jobs)they designed these trucks with the person to tow in mind,,Nose down,rear up and when what ever you tow is applied most times no major leveling equipment is needed(I do realize that MOST everyone uses weight distribution hitches in a tag mode and anti-sway controls),,I mean think of it,try to stick a 37' fifth wheeler on a level truck and watch the nose,up up up,,I agree if your not interested in towing a level Ram could be interesting to see,but,how easily would it drive in wind and at speed,,Sorry for being so windy... ... .....

 

[pcorssmit]

Originally posted by Hammer

One thing I do not understand though is,why level your truck?

Mine's bigger than yours.



Pete

 

[Big MAK]

Why Level? Wanted it that way I guess! Since the truck is w/o trailer for most days I've grown tired of looking at the ground. It's amazing what a difference it makes in ride attitide.



I'm putting a 1" spacer over the stock lift block; complete with anti-slip nub so it won't move. I had a set cut for me at the local welding shop then the truck shop found a set from Rancho and practically gave them to me. When I see how it sets I'll decide if I'm going to adjust the stops. I'll probably put a piece of 1" stock between the frame and stops to keep them at the same seperation as stock.

 

[Hammer]

Mine's bigger than yours eh????,,,I kinda figured that answer would show up,,,Gotta love it!!,,I agree Mark,with the level look for a non-towing application and I certainly realize that we all have different tastes and desires for our trucks,,Bigger than yours... . sheesh... ... ... .