Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Need a bigger Radiator!

[R.ebel]

High coolant temps

Turboman,

I frequently tow at 6000-11000 feet. I'm at 400+HP and I have also experienced high water temps (230*). It seems that any time the boost runs above 30 psi for more than 3-4 minutes the water temp starts to climb. Turning off the A/C helps lower the coolant temp a lot (also lowers egt about 100-150* ) on hard, hot and high pulls .



In an effort to lower the coolant temps I've had the raditor rodded, pressure washed the fins to remove all the bug and other debris, changed to the 180* t'stat, replaced the water pump and tried the water wetter product. Of all of these, cleaning the radiator and charge air cooler seemed to have the biggest impact on temperature reduction. Even with all of the above I can still get to 230* if I really push-it when pulling grades at altitude. At lower elevations I don't seem to have a temp problem although I haven't pulled any of the big grades in the southwest deserts in triple digit heat.



IMO the more power you use the more cooling capacity you will need if you intend on using big power for extended durations of time.

 

[GeneralMachine]

Originally posted by Turboman

I'm sorry, I had the Comp on 1x3. A little cranial rectal inversion there.

Yep that was a inversion, Miss read that part. Harv

 

[SOLER]

Radiator

I don't think anyone answered the original question. Where to get a bigger radiator for our trucks?



The first thing I would check or replace is the thermostat. If it is not opening all the way, you will have a problem. The engine is heating up faster than the water pump can circulate the water.



A new thermostat is a $3 fix, or at least a $3 elimination check. If that doesn't cure it, then a bigger radiator is the way to go. But chect the'stat first.



When I drove trucks, we had this POS Ford with a POS Detroit in it. It died, and the boss replaced it with (curses) another Detroit, but a much bigger one. This was much more powerful than the old one, but also made more heat. The original cooling system was nowhere near adequate. I could make one round-trip run in the morning, and that was it. Every run thereafter would result in serious overheating. The boss wouldn't listen to me or my brother, and he blew another engine.

 

[athompson]

Originally posted by athompson

Any good radiator shop will be able to add rows to your radiator.

 

[NVR FNSH]

And now for the unpopular response... .



Ever consider that the combined load at that altitude is out of the design parameters for the truck? And that you might want to use a more suitable tool for the job?



How much room is there to add additional cores? You've got the aftercooler in front of the radiator and the fan behind it.





Brian

 

[Turboman]

NVR FNSH

Ever consider that the combined load at that altitude is out of the design parameters for the truck? And that you might want to use a more suitable tool for the job?

WHO LET YOU IN HERE!!!!??

 

[Seed Guy]

Would adding a pusher fan to the front of the radiator make any sense. Our Mercedes has one. You could flip a switch in the cab before a long hot grade and get some air moving. I have no idea when the stock fan decides to kick in, but it seems that having an electric up front might be something that would be a proactive step to stopping overheating. Also the fans on our Peterbilts have a switch in the cab so you can kick it in on a hot day driving around the container yard, stop and go traffic, or hot pulls. I think that adding an electric or running a switch so we can engage our own might be a very good bomb.

 

[NVR FNSH]

Re: NVR FNSH

Originally posted by Turboman





WHO LET YOU IN HERE!!!!??

The same people that let you in here... ... Ah, the unpopular opinion elicits cries of democrat or worse yet -socialist



Brian

 

[Turboman]

NVR FNSH

Just yankin' your chain man!!!





I appreciate any and all opinions on this forum. In my opinion I don't need a bigger truck, I need a bigger radiator! All I want is to know where to get one.



Thanks

Chris

 

[NVR FNSH]

I know you were just yankin' my chain. I just had to respond in kind



Seriously, you can probably get a bigger core thru any good radiator shop but the conditions you were in were a bad combination. Problem will be mating the tanks to the new, larger core.



What about the Horton electromechanical fan kit? Does it move more air than the stock vicous coupled fan?



Brian

 

[JBlock]

How to check the stock fan

Can anyone tell me how to check and confirm the stock fan is operating. I never heard to load sound everyone refer to.



thanks Joe B

 

[Sean Flanagan]

I too, am looking for a bigger radiator, along with a couple other High Altitude folks. I have tried all the remedies and snake oil stuff but nothing really helps. The radiator is sized for STOCK power levels, not 2 times stock at high altitudes. Local radiator shop wouldn't touch it because of the crappy plastic tanks. He said too much fabrication was involved.



I put a bigger radiator in my old pickup (Jeep) and all the overheating problems went away.

 

[K_Arts]

If you find something Sean. . please keep me informed as I am looking for 2 of them. . one for each truck.



Kev

 

[Brandon]

pull the radiator and clean the outside, ours was plugged



or get an old 12v radiator

 

[K_Arts]

Brandon,



Been there done that, no improvements. Even after installing a 180* thermostat, my truck is still at 195* for normal driving. Towing the 3000lb boat, my truck rests at about 220*.



My truck may not be in danger yet. . but these temps sure are lowsy!!!



Kev

 

[dseabaugh]

I've got the old factory thermostat the yoyo's up and down from 160? to 190 all time. I don't think that makes any difference but here are some thoughts. The never 34a freon runs Substantially higher condenser temps than the the old R12. 2 any increased slippage in your torqueconverter or transmission either from load or wear will raise your cooler temps. Either of these will raise the air temp that goes through your radiator reducing it's ability to cool. another idea is just slow down or back off on the hills. When business is better I reguarly make a trip 1-2 times a week to Indiana Grossing up to 28 K with my truck and run 70 mph every inch. Part of the fun of making these trips is watching the temp gauge and the speedo rise in unison! I usually back off a little as the temp starts to get to 200 /210 . Never had a hill that got me to 230. Goreville hill on I57 is 2. 5 miles long and steep (some call it 3 mile hill but I have measured it) There is a direct relationship to the depth of my foot in the pedal and the rate of rise on the temp gauge but after I top the hill I can back off to 1/2 throttle and keep my speed and after 2-3 miles my temp is back down. I've never tried it with over drive off or air off before.