Need a bit of help...KDP stuff.

[Idually]

Boy, do I need an FSM... I want to the local Cummins Parts place today to get the new Gear cover seal, and front crank seal, as well as a few other things. I get home and I'm looking at a front seal "kit". Kit? Obviously, here it comes...



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What goes where? I pulled a single seal from the cover(the one with "red" around it, but what are the the other two items. Sorry for the stupid, but...



Also. I got a KDP tab today(Thanks a million, Sam!). The bolt on the '91 is recessed about an 1/8" or so... do I need to create a "dogleg" in the tab? it won't go in "flush".



Thanks, as per usual.



Andrew

 

[Reb.B]

the red seal goes in the gear cover. The metal piece is the seal driver after you get flush and it puts in the the new correct depth. the plasic sleave goes in the seal and guids it over the crank. The black seal can go on after the job is done in front of the red seal on the crank. I don't use them, i think they cause more harm than good, but thats just my opinion.

 

[Greenleaf]

I also do use the front lip seal. I don't see them with the OEM seal and the "red" seal won't leak by it'self. I believe it to be a dust extruder.



-S

 

[MLee]

Iduelly;

you did not get any instructions? Its pretty easy, do as the guys have stated, make sure the crank shaft is dry!!!!, Its a teflon seal and transferes cemical to the crank [ use the install guide, plastic, when you push on the crank the guide will come out to youit protects the seal surface. I used some guide pins [longer bolts with the heads cut off and tapered] to install the cover, and every thing lined up great, and did not have to fight it and make a big mess with the sealent. Hope it goes great.

Marv.

 

[btoscano]

I didn't use the dust seal (black) either.



As stated, the metal ring is used to drive the seal into place. It may or may not be used depending on your technique. Some find it easier to drive the seal in with a 4" pipe from behind. Have patience. It will often go in crooked and patience not brute force will make it right.



As for the KDP tab, I bought mine from harold, its stepped just right to fit the 1st gen case. The dealer tab is not suitable for our 1st gen trucks. I apologize in advance, but I do not know who sam is to know what his tab is like. I will say that Harold's tab is great.



Brian

 

[btoscano]

Be sure to tighten all 6 timing case cover bolts. Several of mine were not as tight as they should have been. If you are wonering where they are, there is a picture somewhere, but in words, two are down by the oil pan, one up next to the oil pump gear, 2 behind on the cam gear on the right side, and the KDP. There is one behind the cam gear that you cannot put a socket/torque wrench on so it must be snugged up as best as possible with an offset 10 mm open end wrench. Given those are hard to find, some make them at home with a torch and hammer.



Brian

 

[Idually]

Hey guys, thanks, a bunch!

Nope, no "destructions", thus the FSM comment.

I dog legged the Tab an it will work just fine.

6 bolts... Hmmmm. Just like Easter... . I'll find 'em. How much torque should I put on them?

Andrew

 

[MLee]

I thought you might already know, 18 ft llbs, not much but if you remove and re-locktite its enough. You are tightning aluminium to steel and you don't want to stress the case. What I did on others that I did was, checked for tightness with a tourqe wrench at 18 and they were loose I would re-locktie. But to be safe ----relocktite anyway.

Marv.

 

[Idually]

I wanted to say thanks again. KDP tab is in. Easy project when you are this close to it. Here is a pic. Cleaned and relock-tited(sp) the case bolt. Hopefully we are good to go!

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Thanks again for the help.



Andrew