You should be careful when using a valve for a snubber on a mechanical fuel pressure gauge.
I run my mechanical gauge with no isolater. Just straight diesel to the back of the gauge. I feel this is the most accurate way to do it. But, that accuracy comes at a price. The VP44 causes vibrations in the fuel that make the gauge rattle and buzz like crazy ( more than enough to make me want to drive right off a cliff ). So someone came up with the idea to use a needle valve as a snubber to lessen the vibration between the VP44 and the gauge. Common practice is to close the valve completely and then just crack it open ( 1/8 of a turn or so ). I used that method for about 7 mo.
Then I start to see my LP pressure start to fall accross the board, idle - cruise - WOT, where all falling. So I go and buy a new LP from Freightliner for $133 + tax, and order a Wildcat Flow Kit. I install my new goodies and hook up the gauge as I had it before. Everything is great ffor about 2 weeks, then my pressures start to fall again. I'm thinking great, must have got a junker LP right out of the box.
The problem turned out to be the needle valve. It was giving me false low readings at the gauge. Even with it open 3 full turns I was only reading 8 psi at WOT ( with the gauge buzzing like there was no tomorrow ). Also noticed that my pre-start prime pressure was off also. But here is the killer, my cruise psi never changed. The false readings where only coming during WOT and pre-start prime. So I removed the needle valve completely, and now my WOT = 11 psi and prime psi is back to spiking to 15 psi before start. I also slightly modified the Max Flow Kit so that I now have no needle valve and no buzzing of gauge.
Sorry for runnin on, just sharing my experience.
Jeff