Need a new oil pan

[Big_Horn]

So, a huge rock found its way under the truck and now I need to replace some parts. Where can I find a new oil pan, preferably a nicer one that the stock and what’s the best way to change it out? Any help would be appreciated... Thanks... BH





OH and if someone has a trailing arm lying around that was bent as-well…

 

[JFaughn]

When ever theres a failing part , thats the best time to upgrade/mod , as for oil pans , I have not see any thing besides stock , the trailing arm there is some after market that looked better but I have no link .
So check with the dismantles for a used oil pan ,
Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

 

[nickleinonen]

i remember seeing one on ebay once. it was a cast aluminum one. i don't know who made it [might have been a one off piece]

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I don't know of any aftermarket oil pans for your Third Generation Turbo Diesel. You could add oil control baffles to a stock pan, if you wish. The replacement pan must be for a Third Generation engine. Earlier B and ISB engines had a different block skirt width and gear case depth, so they take a different oil pan.

 

[Big_Horn]

Thanks for the reply's fellas. Now i need to figure out how to get this thing out...

 

[demojoe]

I should have a trailing arm

 

[rbattelle]

Here's the complete oil pan replacment procedure from the 2003 service manual:

REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(6) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(7) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(8) Remove the transmission adapter plate.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(9) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/
OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(10) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface
is not damaged and tighten to 50 N·m (57 ft.
lbs. ) torque.
(11) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(12) Remove oil pan and suction tube.

INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear housing
and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use
Mopart Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent.
(2) Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them
into place. Using a new tube to block gasket, install
and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting
with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the bolts to 24
N·m (18 ft. lbs. ) torque. Tighten the remaining tube
brace bolts to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs. ) torque.
(3) Starting in the center and working outward,
tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs. )
torque.
(4) Install the flywheel housing assembly with the
starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 N·m
(57 ft. lbs. ) torque.
(5) Connect starter motor cables.
(6) Install the flywheel or flexplate. Torque to 137
N·m (101 ft. lbs. ).
(7) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine,
check oil level, and adjust, if necessary.

Seems like a major PITA. My advice: DON'T do step number 10 in the removal section. 57 ft*lb? No way.

Considering how involved this procedure is, if the pan's just dented and not leaking I might consider leaving it alone.

Ryan

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

must be a typo. 50 NM is 37 ft lb.

 

[rbattelle]

Even 37 ft*lb is too much, I think. And why the heck do they make you reinstall it while removing the pan? Just to help stop dripping oil? Is this environmental friendliness creeping into automotive service manuals?

Ryan

 

[Don Tanklage]

the directions are for removing and reinstalling the same oil pan



yea, you put the drain plug back in the pan so it will quit dripping



then, they have you torque it right away cuz it is not good practice to install a plug loose, and leave the tightening for later...



you dont want to know how many times i have seen guys forget to tighten the drain plug



and - it is better to have to eventually repair the threads for a plug that has always been good n tight then to have the opposite scenario (rebuild a motor cuz the plug fell out)



don