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Need AC Help on 2007 5.9 CTD

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Hi.
My AC doesn't work. I tested the compressor with an ohm meter and it isn't open. The pump turns over fine too. I can't get voltage to the compressor with truck running, AC button pushed on dash, fan on high and it could be low 134a refrigerant causing a no go situation.
I can read the 134A pressure on the black tank on the firewall with a gauge kit but I can't find where to hook up the can of new 134A to recharge. My older truck had a screw on connector to hook to. Where is it on my truck?
Thanks, Herb
 
The refrigerant fills thru the same port you read the low side pressure. The gauge and can tap are on the same line you can get at any parts store. Put the can on the tap and start filling until the pressures are good.
 
My pressure was in the Green zone which is too low. Suppose to be in blue zone. I guess I need a new recharge kit and I don't have enough parts to put can and meter on same tap. Oh well. Thanks for the tips! Herb
 
Scare me! I had added some 134a and suddenly zip pressure on the gauge with truck running and AC on at full tilt. Turned out the pressure increase caused my compressor to engage and that's when the pressure dropped. As it turned out I put in two cans of refill 134a and it is blowing cold now! Still needs more refill as the gauge needle isn't fully in the middle of the acceptable area. Hopefully it won't leak out. Time will tell. LOL You should run the AC often to keep it oiled and sealed as part of routine.
 
You must have a leak somewhere. Continuing to add refrigerant can run you into problems because when the system leaks down, you also lose oil that is in the system. Fill your system by temperature at the center duct. A/C systems often put out the coldest air with a slightly lower charge than spec. LOOK for any OILY stains around the A/C components. That is a sign of a refrigerant leak. I rebuilt my '07's A/C with a new compressor, receiver drier and expansion tube. I personally chose to ditch the R134a and switched to Dura-Cool 12a. I have lower low compressor head pressures and lower outlet temps.
 
I was tempted to do that to my signature truck when I had the dealer replace all the HVAC doors, but the system hadn't leaked any refrigerant in 10 years, so I decided to leave it alone. Every refrigerant that followed R12 is a compromise in one form or another. Not only is it easier on the compressor, it doesn't leak as readily as 134 and is not as corrosive in the presence of a small amount of moisture. How much more refrigerant did you use compared to the factory spec.?
 
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