Need Banjo Bolt Info

[BigBadDodge]

Hey all,



I was looking at some Banjo Bolts on Geno's Garage web site and I have a few questions.



How many Banjo Bolts can I replace on my 1997 215 Motor ? and which ones are they ? I know there is one on top of the Fuel Filter going to the pump, and then one on the pump, but are there more ? where can I put the one they make for the sending unit ? I called Geno's and the guy on the phone said I can replace 5 of them. I don't know where all five could be, the other one on the filter has the return manifold fuel line going to it, not sure if I can replace that one or not. I have replaced the overflow valve already with the one that piers sells.



Has anybody here with the same motor done this yet ? (replaced stock Banjo Bolts with bigger ones) if so was it noticiable ? flow more fuel ?



Any help would be greatfully appriacieted,



Thanks,



Scott

 

[illflem]

I think replacing all the banjo bolts with the bored out ones is more of a weak fuel system 24 valve thing. You need only replace the one on the injection pump with one that has a port tapped for the sender. Make sure you use a gauge snubber on your sender or the lift pump pulsations will destroy it in short order.

 

[Don M]

The bolts that Ray makes are for the 24 valve "weaker type" engines. Our 12 valves dont need no silly banjo bolt upgrades.



Don~

 

[Brandon]

easy now I just freaked out scott last night about fuel... ... ... . just the one should do scott





lol





Brandon

 

[Don M]

Scott and Brandon,



Check fuel pressure at idle, running in driveway about 2500rpm and driving around.

Shim the overflow valve to increase the pressure over the factory specs. I like mine about 24psi idle and no less than 25 at WOT while driving. At 2500-3000rpm in the driveway I have about 38psi.

More power from the higher pressure, but its hard on lift pumps.



Don~

 

[BigBadDodge]

Thanks guy's, I guess the dude that answerd the phone at Geno's today was the janitor, or was just trying to make a sale on the kit of five.



Looks like I will be ordering one for the supply line to the pump.



Thanks again.

 

[BigBadDodge]

Hey Brandon, will I need a pressure snuber like those in the attachment below to control fluctuation ? even with an electronic gauge ? Have you had any problems before with out them.



http://www.grainger.com/images/catalog/1421. GIF



Scott,

 

[Cooker]

Hemi-Dart and someone else (sorry I forgot who) drilled out their stock Banjo bolts and they were both happy with the results. If I remember correctly Hemi picked up about a pound of fuel pressure.



Sorry I don't remember the rest of the details.



-Ryan

 

[radixr]

Banjo Bolt

BigBadDodge,



That banjo bolt that illflem mentions will not fit your injection pump! It isn't the same size. I should know; I have a set of 5 that I haven't used because they don't fit. I think there is only one that can be used and it's not the one in the injection pump.



illflem drilled and tapped his stock injection pump bolt and after reading about his modification, I did the same to mine. It works fine. I used a 1/8 NPT male/female needle valve at the injection pump as a snubber. This has an added advantage of giving you a way to shut off the gauge fuel supply if something starts to leak.

 

[BigBadDodge]

radixr, what size did you drill the bolt out too ? and how did you install a fuel pressure sender ? My main reason for changing the bolt was to add the sending unit.



If you drill out the bolt on the pump, why not drill the one at the other end of that supply line on top of the filter ?

 

[illflem]

I drilled out the one at the IP and tapped it to 1/8" NPT mainly because there is lots of room and it's out of the way. Don't attach the sender directly to the banjo bolt, engine vibration will kill it. I found that a grease gun hose works well to relocate the sender off the engine, they come with 1/8" male ends, are tough and cheap. I went though two senders before adding a snubber, better to use one, they are only $7.

 

[radixr]

I did what illflem did except I used 3mm diesel fuel hose and barb fittings. I mounted my sender on the sheet metal near the hood hinge.

 

[LarryB]

Bill and others

I'm thinking I'll add another solenoid to my boost/exhaust pressure gauge and read fuel pressure too. I'll put a momentary-on push button to activate it whenever I want to check.



Question: will fuel work its way up to the gauge and damage it after a few readings? Any ideas on how to keep this from happening? Is this a dumb idea? I just don't have any room for more gauges. Besides, I already have a perfectly good 60psi pressure gauge, right?



LarryB

 

[illflem]

Larry diesel won't harm your gauge but that black ink used engine oil you put in your fuel might, sort of like clogged arteries. Only possible problem I can see using a three way solenoid valve is that small amounts of diesel might make it's way back into your intake and exhaust at shut down. No big deal as far as I'm concerned. There are isolators available that will keep the fuel on one side then read air pressure on the other, but they are pricey, maybe even more than the rest of your gauge system. I've seen left, right, middle fuel tank selector valves with switches that would work great. I'd say go for it without an isolator.



Did my mechanical fuel pressure gauge system for less than $25, no lighting. It's not something you need to look at all the time and can be in an out of the way place. Mine is way low near the transmission hump. I can't read the numbers but since I have a 40 psi gauge I know that normal pressure is with the pointer straight up. Works for me, I think you could find room also.

 

[LarryB]

Thanks for the vote of confidence Bill.

I guess the pressure gauge is a bourdon tube so the fuel won't hurt it. OK, I'll give it a try.



Let's see, what else can I hook this pressure gauge up to?

 

[Don M]

I worry slightly about the vibration finally making the thing leak. Poly tubing and fittings like that seems to have quality that is lower than I would want for full time use.

Of course I had an oil pressure gauge leak on me after about a year and made a big mess. Maybe Im just gun shy.



Stainless tubing and fittings would be better as long as the sending unit was under the hood and the gauge was electrical in the cab. I could live with that.



Larry, you come up with some cool ideas Man



Don~

 

[LarryB]

Don M

Thanks for the nice compliment.



Your right about the vibration . I have a few yards of SS tubing I'll have to use.

Larry