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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Need Bed Clearance for 5th Wheel

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Smog check station in L.A.?

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I can't get enough clearance from the bed of my 97 4x4 dually to the frame of the 5th wheel trailer. Rear springs 3+1 leaves, 3" wide with a 4 3/4" spacer between axle and spring. The bed sets 2" high at the rear. I can't modify the 5th wheel any further. I need to get the bed down at least 2" and will still pull the trailer a little nose high. Front coil springs are about 13" high with weight of truck on them. Any suggestions?

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Your description is not very clear. Are the springs you described on the truck or the trailer?

4 x 4 trucks and smaller fifth wheels are often not a good match.

The problem can be eased by raising the trailer. You can do this by swapping the trailer axles so that they rest above the springs if they don't already. Also, if needed you can have a good welder cut the spring perches off the frame at the front and rear of each set of springs then have the welder weld a section of 2" by 4" or 2" by 6" square/box tubing on the bottom of the trailer's frame rails approximately 7' long sufficient to span the distance from beyond the front perch of the front spring to beyond the rear perch of the rear spring. This addition will form a new sub frame. Then weld the spring perches on the bottom edge of the new sub frame. The trailer will now be raised 4" or 6" depending on which tubing you selected. Also have the welder weld straps along the inside and outside edges of the frame and sub frame rails in several places to attach them together securely and prevent the sub frame from rolling or twisting away from the original trailer frame under stress.
 
Truck Bed Clearance

The trailer springs are on top of the axles and the spring perches are already 5 1/4" below the main trailer frame. My question, I guess, is the 4 3/4" spacer under the truck springs stock. Since I bought the truck used 7 years ago I don't know if the suspension is stock. Raising the trailer height would be a last resort since it's expensive and makes it even more top heavy. I would rather lower the truck bed a couple of inches.
 
Sorry, I can't answer that. One of the Gen II 4x4 truck owners will probably tell you if your blocks are OEM or not.
 
The 3rd gen trucks have this same problem, chrysler introduced a narrower /smaller block OR remove the block to fix the situation. You might look into this as a fix. Get a heavier trailer and push those overloads down.
 
Bed Clearance

Well, I ordered 1" blocks to replace the 4 3/4" blocks under the truck springs with new u-bolts. The fuel tank will be a little closer to the drive shaft but should be ok. Drive shaft will be a little flatter. No rear stabilizer so that's not an issue. Took the air bags off and got a better ride. Hopefully I won't have to do anything to the front. The trailer's a light weight 25 footer with only 970 lbs pin weight compared to my old 30 footer with 1600 lb pin weight. For where I go the smaller trailer works better. Those little light weights are already top heavy and didn't want to make it any worse by adding height to it besides I would have to travel 125 miles to get the work done on the trailer and probably spend more. Parts should here in about a week.
 
39" is the tailgate load height (tailgate down).

edit: Out of curiosity I measured to the top of the tailgate: 57. 5".
 
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What size tires are on your truck and are they stock size?



Maybe you need smaller tires on the truck and larger tires on the trailer.



george
 
Bed Clearance

If I replace the 4 5/8" blocks with 1" blocks does it lower the rear by 3 5/8" and if so what other surprises might I have? If the rear is lower than the front I could use my air bags to level the truck.

Anybody know about how much it costs to raise the trailer by using a subframe?
 
Finally got the truck lowered enough to get 6" of clearance for the 5th wheel. About 3" in the rear and 1 1/2" in front. Also added 1 3/4" blocks to the trailer.
 
I hope you used steel blocks under the truck. The aluminum ones, unless they are solid billet or forged, will crack and break under the weight of that truck.

I just had to replace the factory cast iron blocks under my truck after they mushroomed out, screwing up my pinion angle.
 
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