2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Need brake and ball joint info please!

[Fishin Guide]

Okay,



I did some Periodic Maint. tonight. Oil, filters, rotate tires, ect.



When I had the wheels off, I inspected the front brakes. They are shot! At least the inner pad is. The outer still looks really good. And the rears don't look like they have been used at all.



What is the best deal and best performing pad out there? Is there a need to resurface the rotors? They look real good and there is not even any deep scars.



Also, while under there, I checked the track bar and the front end. Had to grease it right? Well, with the wheel off, I can move the entire hub assy. about 1/4" in/out while lifting on the hub. Seems loose to me. What's the spec and what's the best way to check this tolerance. And yes, I have a manual, just looking for the best method to this.



I'm sure the joints are the PITA, but I have the will and even more tools. Gimme some suppliers and pricing if you guys have that handy!!



Thanks!



Dave

 

[Sojourner]

What is the best deal and best performing pad out there? Is there a need to resurface the rotors?

No Dave, it is not absolutely necessary to turn the rotors if these are your original pads and they is no indication of metal to metal contact on the surface. I didn't bother having the rotors re-surfaced when I replaced the pads for the first time, and I had no problems. You do need to inspect them very closely and if there are any irregularities in any of the surfaces then they do need to be turned.



"Best deal" and "best performing" are two different things to some folks. For value, my choice had been the Bendix Fleet pads ($60-70, but they include an application for a certificate for one replacement set, so you get two full sets for that price, provided you follow their redemption directions to the letter), however I've switched to the carbon/kevlar pads for best performance and I like them alot (the supplier told me to expect them to last 2 - 5 times longer than conventional pads). Kinda pricey at $180 per axle though. I'm sure others can share their experiences with other brands/types of pads to give you some more options. HTH

 

[McCRam]

"When I had the wheels off, I inspected the front brakes. They are shot! At least the inner pad is. The outer still looks really good. And the rears don't look like they have been used at all. "



This is telling me that your calipers are not putting even pressure on each of the pads. Make sure that the sliders are well lubed. When I did mine last, they had some corrosion in them that i took out with the dremel. I lubed it with anti sieze, but that starting to dry out pretty bad. Works good, just doesn't last long. I'll use a high temp axle grease next time. A friend of mine told me a he used a product called brake grease on his, I haven't found it anywhere yet though.



Ive used the reybestos heavy duty pads from checker. I haven't had problems yet. They came with new caps too.

 

[Dartman]

Brake Job

My first brake job @ about 12K: Had a problem with brakes pulling to the left. Replaced the pads with carbon/metallic from PFC. Didn't really like them too much. Stopped okay, but dirty and lasted about one year. Didn't turn my rotors first time either. Turbo Dawg is correct: Inspect your rotors; any grooves, and I'd turn 'em. Mine had also worn the inside a LOT more than the outboards. Had 1/16" left on inboards and about 5/16" on outboards. Noticed the factory doesn't lube pins or the guides enough. I also tried anti-sieze on the caliper slides and pins, but dried out due to tempurature. Only place where didn't dry out was between the bolt and sleeve of the pin. This was because I mixed diff lube with the anti-sieze to thin it out so I could get it down bewtween the bolt and the sleeve. The brakes quit pulling for about 100 miles, then started pulling again. N. . e. . x. . t... ... ... ...



Second brake job @ 37K: Still pulling since first brake job but pads wore evenly this time. Don't know how your '02 hubs are built, but I would've had to press out the lug studs to separate the hubs from the rotors. Found a place that could turn them w/hubs installed. Bought ceramic Raybestos Pro Grade QS from Checker for about $67. 00. So far, so good. Also flushed my fluid with cheap stuff (Valvoline Synth power) and bled. Cleaned the calipers and rebuilt them. Installed speed bleeders. These are awsom and would recommend unless you want to get a power bleeder system. And here's something I tried: Polished the slides of the spindles and the calipers starting with #240 and worked my way to #600 wet-or-dry. Left the machine marks to hold lube, just wanted to polish the main surface area, not take it down too far. That took a while. Greased up the slides with high temp bearing grease and will see if it starts pulling again. Also adjusted rear brakes. After reading a bit on this site, a lot of guys adjust the rears frequently. Only about 50 miles on new brakes, but already stops better .



Future brake stuff: Still going to flush more because it is going in clear and coming out gold. Then will put in ATE Super blue racing fluid. Pretty good boiling points and cheaper than the Castrol SRF I wanted to use. Still might go with the Castrol at a later date. Just received my stainless steel braded lines from EGR. They have good stuff. To be installed this week end. Going to install larger wheel cylinders ( Raybestos cylinder PN: 37337 from NAPA) also.



Had some good input from a lot of experienced folks here at TDR also, Thank you.

 

[Fishin Guide]

Thanks for all the input so far. I am getting closer to resolving this.



Dave

 

[Sojourner]

EGR Brakes has a product specifically made for lubricating brake parts where necessary. It is called Pastelube, it's synthetic and is supposed to be 2,400 degree lube. I'm using it and my brakes are not pulling after a couple of thousand miles. I also installed new pins just to be sure.

 

[BarryG]

I just finished doing a front brake job on mine. 115k on the original front pads, rear pads still good to go at least for a while. I did not turn the rotors they just didn't need it. Relubed everything up good and put it back together and everything is working well. I used some raybestos pads but cant remember which ones. They were like 75. 00 a set from Pep Boys. As far as the lube Pep Boys had "Brake Caliper Grease" that I used. It was darn expensive for grease and almost didnt buy it. I did go ahead and buy it, like 9. 00 for a pint or so. I did some checking with a mechanic friend who said the reason it is expensive was the temp properties it has, it wont dry out at high temps, we shall see next time around. He also mentioned that many auto parts stores sell just little packets of it for a 1. 00 or 2. 00, so you may not need to buy a ten year supply like I did.

 

[lrox]

The best brake caliper lube for the sliders that I have found is from Wurth. saBesto Silicone lubricating compound, made for brake caliper parts. I'm not sure if they'll sell to the p[ublic or not, but the number is 1-800-WURTH US

 

[AKAMAC]

Fishing Guide,

Make sure that its not your bearings. The ball joint play will be up and down and should not exceed 3/16 play. You should use a dial indicator. If it is your bearings and the end-play of the b/j's exceeds 1/16 I'd go ahead and replace them as you are so close to them labor time wise.

Moog upper #: K7394 or K7396 (adjustable camber)

Moog lower #: K7397

Have fun... . Mike

 

[jtwcummins]

Sounds like the play is wheel bearings. Had to replace one last year and the other last week. Lube with synthetic grease and do a good job 'polishing' the caliper mating surfaces and the binding will be reduced. Kevlar pads are great, don't fade and almost no dust. I did the complete EGR upgrade to the fronts and have had no problems. If I feel the slightest pull it means the rears need adjusting.



When the rears are adjusted the brakes are awesome, but they don't stay that way very long so rear disks are in the budget. I also clean and relube fronts about once a year.

 

[Fishin Guide]

Well, the job is done.



It was in fact the upper ball joint, but I replace both on the same side because of the PITA factor. Only the upper was bad.



I went with Moog replacement parts and the job was relatively trouble free. I used a National Auto out here and paid $69. 00 a joint. Not the cheapest price I have seen but great service.



The drivers side showed no signs of wear yet, so I didn't touch it.



Thanks for the help and info! As always you all are a great source!



And BTW, my brake pads are on the way too. Next week... .



Dave

 

[Dartman]

And BTW, my brake pads are on the way too. Next week... .



Dave[/QUOTE]



Hey Dave; What pads did you order?

 

[Fishin Guide]

Dartman,



A post by Thomas, I could not have said it better!

Contact TDR member and brake guru Sam Peterson. His shop number is 360. 357. 4958. Many TDR members have pads shipped to their homes from Sam's Olympia, Washington shop.

Dave