2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Need Control Arms

[Ghost Rider]

Looking for some advice on control arms. Put in a Carli kit, and am getting a little rub, and my original seem to be worn. I'm hoping some new ones will get rid of some clunking noise from under my feet. Like Carli's arms, but dang, just blew a big chuk of money on the kit. Don't have the cash for a $900. 00 dollar set of arms now. Anybody know of a equal or (preferably) better set than OEM for a good price?

 

[TBurow]

check ebay, i just scored a 4" skyjacker front lift kit for $50. i needed arms also and for the price even if i only use the arms it was a great deal.

 

[Graphic man]

I just found these... . may be a good deal



Custom Length Control Arms 94-02 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 - (eBay. ca item 250217560558 end time 19-Mar-08 23:29:11 EDT)

 

[Joe Mc]

I purchased these for mine about a year ago, went with std length.



Custom Length Control Arms 94-02 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4



I had same problem - like someone was beating the floor under the pass side front.



The install wasn't too bad. FYI if you are doing at home like I did - a few points that will save time and busted knuckles.

1- penetrating oil everything, buy tube of marine type grease (green and real sticky) and 10 - 90 or 45 degree zerk (grease) fittings - you only need 8 but if you buy only 8 you'll lose one and break another one . . .

2- wheel chock the back tires, pop in neutral to put full weight of truck on the chocks, set parking break, assuming your driveway is sloaped, point truck up grade, break nuts loose on all thru bolts before doing "anything"

3- remove the zerk fittings on new tubes and install 45 or 90 degree zerks (step 1). If you retain the straight ones that come installed you will not be able to grease the upper frame and upper axel fittings - just too much in the way, use the little packets of grease that comes with the tubes to coat the bushings and thru bolt tubes

4- hardest one to get at - right side upper frame - due to exhaust pipe being in the way

5- do "one" tube at a time, do the uppers on both sides first (one at a time) - they're the hardest to remove and install

6- before removing bottoms mark the cam washers with a paint stick and axel alignment tabs so you can put pinion angle back where it was

7- do the bottom ones next - they're a snap

8- snug all bolts and pump the green marine type grease (step 1) thru till it seeps out from everywhere, realign cams to paint stick mark (step 6).

9- refer to shop manual for torque specs and torque every bolt/nut to spec. do not overtighten.

10- have alignment checked.



Hardest part was having to spread the frame and housing tabs to accept the bushing in the tube ends. Lube them (tube ends and tabs) up real good and put a rag over the hammer so you don't screw up the powder coat on the tubes if you have to pursuade them in - I did. If I didn't make clear "do not remove upper and lower from one side at the same time as the housing may shift and then you'll have to pull or push it to where needed to align the tube ends - not fun if you are in the driveway". Do one tube at a time - it's a challenge at points but it's the best way to go - if doing in your drive. If you are more darring then yank all four out at once and rely on the sterring componets and front drive shaft to hold everything in place - you'll be sorry:{#@$%! . . .



These tubes were best bang for the buck, IMHO, and since they are a round tube they're stronger then the stock stamped steel, eliminate the part that sticks out on lower stock arms that the tires (315 and up) rub when lock to lock and are "easily" serviceable.



Have fun