Need Cummins part # for fuel solenoid

[LWilliams]

I need to replace my fuel solenoid and I sure don't want to pay the price at the Dodge place. My local Cummins shop said they could order the part if I had the part number. (They are a large truck dealer and shop and don't do any of the "B" series engines. ) But, they said if it was the wrong part they could not take it back or exchange it. So, do any of you have the "for sure" correct part number for the fuel shutoff solenoid for a 96 3500 4x4 5sp. My wife would sure appreciate it. She is getting tired of crawling under the hood every time I want to start the truck. #ad

 

[illflem]

Larry, I don't know the number, but you should first make sure the solenoid is the real problem. It can also be the relay or contacts in your starter motor. The solenoid rarely fails although it can get gummed up with crud on the shaft or linkage and fail to work properly. Seems like many folks replace the solenoid needlessly then have to go back and replace the real cause of the problem.

------------------
95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,BD E-brake,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)

 

[LWilliams]

Illflem, the solenoid fails to pull the plunger in. I have felt on the underside and the rubber boot is very deteriorated. I can reach under and pull up on the plunger and it will start fine. I had the so called mechanic at the dealership look at it and he said this was the problem but I am open to any suggestions. I have ordered a service manual last week and should be to me first of next week. Should I pull the solenoid off and see if the plunger is gummed up, maybe squirt some B12 on it, or what? Where should I start?

 

[LWilliams]

Ok, guys, I just went out to the parking lot and had a friend turn the key to "on". The plunger did not move. I could pull up on the plunger and it would come up and when I let go of it it would go back down. I told him to push the acc. pedal half way down (which is how I am having to start it) and start the engine. When he did that the plunger was pulled all the way into the solenoid and the engine started. It runs fine and stops when I turn the key to off. What do you think?

 

[illflem]

Larry, the shut down solenoid has two coils, a high amp one that pulls the plunger up when the key is in the crank position and a low amp one that holds it in run position. It sounds like your high amp coil isn't working. I don't remember the pins or wire colors off hand, but the connector has just three wires, ground, run 12V+ and crank 12V+. Check that you are getting power at the appropriate times with a voltmeter. I'll bet you aren't. You could even run 12+ to the solenoid crank connection and see if the solenoid closes, you will then know if it is in fact the solenoid. Next check the relay on the drivers side firewall above the fuel filter, it is the one closest to the drivers side. To check it correctly you need a scan tool, but if you have someone to turn the key you will hear clicking at the appropriate times. The next step is where I'm a little uncertain without reading the manual, but I think the relay gets it's crank signal from the starter motor contacts, it seems this is where people have the most problem. I don't know the method for checking this out other than rebuilding the contacts, I think the kit is about $30 or installing a rebuilt starter. Other people need to help me here.

I have often thought that if I ever have problems with the shut down system that I'll just go buy a $15 choke cable and replace the solenoid with it. It would be very easy, fool proof and a he!! of a lot cheaper.

 

[FD5]

I had the same problem with my 95. Changed out the relay ($35 from NAPA) on the firewall and its been fine since.

------------------
1995 2500, SLT Laramie, Xcab, auto, 3. 54, stock plate forward, 237K, Amsoiled throughout, dual by-pass filter, muffler and cat fell off, if you find them, there yours!!
1989 250, Cummins, auto, stock, work truck, 190K, soon to be Amsoiled
1967 Coronet 440, Steve Thomas built 360, auto, 2. 94, factory A/C, am radio, FAST!!!and is FOR SALE $5,500
1987 Celica GT convertible, auto, 67K
1989 Holiday Rambler Aluma-lite travel trailer
Amsoil Dealer

 

[Jeff Burke]

Larry,

To see if your solenoid is functioning, turn your key on, and then manually push the plunger on the solenoid up. If the magnet pulls the plunger up, the solenoid is good. If not, then it's probably not good. By checking this way, you are taking the relay out of the loop. If the plunger is pulled up by the magnet, check your relays, the connection at the fuel shut-off for sticking, and the plunger itself for crud. Chances are good it's not the solenoid, but one of the other parts. Good luck.

------------------
'96 4x4 Auto, Ext Cab, K&N Air, Long Box, Kitty Be Gone, TST #6 Plate, AutoMeter Pyro and Boost Gauges, Jannetty rebuilt transmission with Pro-Torque Convertor

 

[Jeff Burke]

Larry,
If I understand what you are saying, when your friend started the truck, the solenoid pulled in as it should. If that is correct, then you need to look at your relays as illflem was saying, cause your solenoid is fine.

------------------
'96 4x4 Auto, Ext Cab, K&N Air, Long Box, Kitty Be Gone, TST #6 Plate, AutoMeter Pyro and Boost Gauges, Jannetty rebuilt transmission with Pro-Torque Convertor

 

[LWilliams]

Jeff, since I posted that note I have been turning the key to "on" and reaching under the hood and pulling up on the plunger. I just give it a boost and it will pull the plunger on up into the solenoid. Am I to assume at this point that the solenoid is good and it might be the relay? There are two relays on the firewall. A small one and a larger one on the drivers side. I think the larger one is the one Illflem has referenced. If so it has the number "1945" on it above the number "1" and that is all. I called the local parts store and these numbers won't cross in his system. At this point all I can do is visit the Dodge parts dept.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Larry:

On your original questions get the engine serial number off the data tag on the gear housing cover and the CPL #. Cummins can tell you what you have for a part number on the fuel cut-off solenoid. I think they range in price from $200-300. #ad
Also I have inquired if the boot was available, but it is not. I would think you could "invent" a boot out of a large bicycle inner tube etc. .

However, I change three relays to every one solenoid, when someone complains of this problem. I think the solenoid relay (the others referred too) was about $60 retail at you Mopar parts counter.

Are you close to a Cummins Southern Plains?

They can help you. .

Take care and good luck,

Andy

 

[Jeff Burke]

From the sounds of things, your solenoid is good. There is a way to check the solenoid relay for resistance to see if it is good, but I don't remember how (mine was within the specs, but on the low side). When I replaced my relay, what I actually got was both relays and the bracket - cost was about $45. I got mine thru carparts on the web. Mine's been good ever since.

------------------
'96 4x4 Auto, Ext Cab, K&N Air, Long Box, Kitty Be Gone, TST #6 Plate, AutoMeter Pyro and Boost Gauges, Jannetty rebuilt transmission with Pro-Torque Convertor

[This message has been edited by Jeff Burke (edited 05-02-2001). ]

 

[FD5]

I must appologize for the info I gave earlier about the NAPA #. I purchased mine thru the local dealer (with employee discount, son works there, very helpful on dealer items only) but the relay was the problem and not the solenoid.

------------------
1995 2500, SLT Laramie, Xcab, auto, 3. 54, stock plate forward, 239K, Amsoiled throughout, dual by-pass filter, muffler and cat fell off, if you find them, there yours!!
1989 250, Cummins, auto, stock, work truck, 190K, soon to be Amsoiled
1967 Coronet 440, Steve Thomas built 360, auto, 2. 94, factory A/C, am radio, FAST!!!and is FOR SALE $5,500
1987 Celica GT convertible, auto, 67K
1989 Holiday Rambler Aluma-lite travel trailer
Amsoil Dealer

 

[LWilliams]

I have located a relay at another Dodge dealer and will go by after work and pick it up. The part number is 56007067 and is $45. That's cheap enough. Andy, I haven't been able to locate a Cummins Southern Plains anywhere close but I am going to try this other dealership. It's several miles away but I think they are better than the one here local. I'll let you know what happens.

 

[LWilliams]

Thanks to everyone who helped me save a bunch of money. It appears that the relay was the problem. I got one last Thursday and put in on and ever since then the Cummins comes to life without touching the throttle. $36. sure beats $400. plus. Thanks again to you all.

 

[Jeff Burke]

Larry,
If it wasn't for others who helped me through the same thing, I for one would have a new solenoid and the same old problem.

------------------
'96 4x4 Auto, Ext Cab, K&N Air, Long Box, Kitty Be Gone, TST #6 Plate, AutoMeter Pyro and Boost Gauges, Jannetty rebuilt transmission with Pro-Torque Convertor

 

[Turbo Thom]

Larry:
I'll jump in here. I had the same problem 16 mon. back. I changed the solenoid and that was it. $113. 00. Remember, the rubber boot is all that holds the unit together with one wire tie. When the boot wears out it will let trash into the sleeve and even though the unit will pull the plunger up, any grit will wear like it would in a bearing. A bad boot is still bad.
Check it.
Preston

------------------
96 3500, Black SLT, 5 speed, turbo diesel, , with US Gear overdrive, Rhino liner, Reese 15,000 lb. fifth wheel hitch, US Gear de-celarator exhaust brake, muffler elimination kit, Amsoil lub. , Mag-hytec rear cover, dual-remote by-pass filters, and Roadmaster Active system, AutoMeter Pyro & boost, Primeloc