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Need Death Wobble HELP!

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Heat control unhappiness...

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ddivine,

Dont know,

I am still running the original series Michellin load range E as originally equiped.

Rog
 
I have 315 BFGs now.



It seems a smaller tire in load range E would be a good idea next time around.



The dealer changed the speedo last time.



What is the best way to handle that?



Thanks,

D.



The dealer or a smarty can reprogram your speedo. There shoudnt be any reason to go to a smaller tire in a load range E unless you want to, If you think it will fix a problem then look at whats causing the problem, the BFG's are notorius for DW but load range D is not the problem.
 
I, like others, had the BD Steering stabilizer (or DSS) installed, and it helped tremendously.
As one poster said though, it's not a singular thing for every truck. I'm in the process of replacing the entire front end from the tierods to the suspension, tires, shocks, track bar, etc.
 
Firestone / Bridgestone make a load range E 315 I've got a set on oder as he Pro-comps just did not cut it. I had Coopers on before but did not like the slick feeling in the rain with them... . But they did last over 70,000 miles. As for the Death wobble I'd make sure everything is tight as it can be, ball joints steering links. Update to the late 08 kit I should add that Moog now makes replacement parts for the 08 system maybe better than Dodge's? or atleast have grease fittings. My kit has held up very well.
 
DW can be caused by anything, and everything. My 04. 5 never had it until 125k miles when i switched to pro-comp tires. A lot of people had good luck with them, i have not. went to Nitto's and have not had a problem since. I have nothing in my steering or suspension that is Dodge and I had it happen, it really just depends. It seems as if our trucks find something they don't like and all h3ll breaks loose. I always love the posts that say "death wobble cured" or something like that. They should read, "cured for ME". My point being is what works for some won't necessarily work for anyone else. In your case Pete, i say tires, tires, tires. how long does your truck sit between drives? There's no worse feeling than having the wobble hit ya, I wish i could help you.



In your signature it shows you have the Dyna Trac system, wouldn't that help, now that the spindal has a wider spacing between the wheel bearings?
 
Believe it or not, the first time i ever had death wobble was after the Dynatrac install. I had read for a few years about all the problems people were having with DW and was basically trying to do everything i could to avoid it. The hubs i don't think made much of a difference in that area. What did it to me was tires, plain and simple. They were a D rated Pro Comp 33'' mud tire. I didn't use my brain and i paid for it. I could get my truck to DW dang near on command. One positive thing about it was the fun i had with the America's Tire salesman who swore up and down tires wouldn't cause what i was describing. I took him for a ride in it. When we got back he cleaned his shorts and we put on some 285/75-17 E Nitto Terra Grappler and I've never had a problem since. Needless to say i will always have E rated tires from now on.

This goes back to my post earlier though, i've read on here for hours about every case of DW and although there were many that were caused by different components, a lot were tire issues. My opinion is that it all comes down to your tires. Start there and work your way in. Do you have the proper pressure, are you rotating often enough, is your alignment still within specs, how long does your truck sit between use, these are all questions i think should be asked before you start spending big bucks on front end parts.
 
Interesting, I believe the tires may be a contributing factor but not a cause in itself. I have ran D on my truck since new, of course they are rated at 3500 pounds but never been an issue. In order for the suspension to get into an ocilation mode (DW) there has to be issues with the components or their geometry. If the tire is true, round and balanced I can not see their weight rating being the cause od DW. Just my opinion though.
 
That's the key, not all D rated tires are the same. The D rated tires I ran were only in the low 2k lbs per tire. I didn't look before I bought them, and just assumed that they "good enough". The sidewall strength is what I believe allows the tire to rebound quickly from pot holes or hard bumps, and retain its shape. In your case SierraRam, I don't think you'll ever have a problem with 37's, there plenty of tire there to prevent any problems. I feel in general, if your tires aren't rated high enough and you put a few thousand miles on them, or even earlier, they start to break down and can't support the load anymore. Keep in mind this didn't happen to me overnight, I put about 5-7k miles on them before they started breaking down. One tire unparticular started humming a different tune then the others. I ended up rotating later that week and when that tire was put up front, DW started. I got it to do it at 30mph, 50mph, and at 70mph, it didn't matter. In my case it was because of the tires. I stated earlier that alignment is a big factor as well; I just stress checking your tires before you buy to make sure the weight rating is sufficient.
 
Had the same problem with mine when it was new. Got rid of the BFG's and went to Bilstein shocks. Never had the problem again. Now I have over 180,000 miles.

Good luck!
 
Just picked up a set of 315-70-17 Bridgestone Duller at's what a nice tire I've had Coopers and Procomps but they were all load range "D" these Bridgestone's are load range "E" what a diffrence in ride and handeling!
 
A buddy of mine in Byron, GA told me that his started doing that and he adjusted the steering box and it stopped it.



There's the nut/screw on top and then there is the back adjustment where the steering shaft goes in.



On my 01, I had to do the steering shaft input. On his, he adjusted the top nut and he said he has had no more problems.
 
just broke a tie rod end. and its the new 09 up grade kit. snapped the stud rite off at 70 mph. and down in the ditch what a ride. didnt hurt the truck i got it stoped in time just lucky it was a big ditch. the dealer is warranting the kit. and given me a new kit.
 
just broke a tie rod end. and its the new 09 up grade kit. snapped the stud rite off at 70 mph. and down in the ditch what a ride. didnt hurt the truck i got it stoped in time just lucky it was a big ditch. the dealer is warranting the kit. and given me a new kit.



When you install it you have to make sure both tie rod ends are parallel to each other or they will break, Ive helped a few friends replace some because they weren't parallel, If the dealer installed the kit originally I would go back and inspect there work very closely and educate them about how steering geometry works.
 
Parallel may not have been the best word to use, but both tie rods need to be level with each other, if you have one angled forward and one angled back they bind and will break. when you install it put a level on the flat part of the tie rod and make sure both are level or atleast at the same angle.
 
O I see, that would have to do with caster or camber witch ever tips it up or down. I cant rember witch one does what. but wont that chang whin i get a front end alinement that guy would have to make sure there are at the same angle. I will ask about it. Thank you for your impute every thing helps. I see you are running 37. i hurd that if you run some thing bigger or smaller then the 315 you dont get the D. W. is that true
 
Umm, well interms of when the joints would bind it would be when you turn the wheel the entire steering setup twist's and my understanding is that is when they will bind and break. As far as D. W. tire size doesnt matter, I have seen trucks with stock tires get it and I have had it with 37's when I had a bad steering stab and was too low on tire PSI.
 
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