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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) need engine (second in 146000 miles)

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) VP Going Going Gone?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Lost 5th Gear Nut,Options??

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What kind of oil filters do you use?? I hope not the dreaded Fram! They are well-known to plug up the oil squirters on these things. :D



Tom
 
?????? The name of them escapes me at the moment, i get them from Geno's garage. They are supposed to be recommended by cummins.

Change oil between 3000-5000 miles with Shell Rotella.
 
like i say, the egt gauge seems to be functioning properly, how would you go about checking for accuracy ?



I have located these three engines. how can i tell witch one would work in my 01. two of them are for standard transmissions, my 01 is an automatic. Can i take the flexplate off my bad engine and bolt to one of these ?





235 H. P. @ 2900 RPM - 5. 9 LITER

TURBOCHARGER - ECM - MANIFOLDS

STARTER: 12 VOLT - FLYWHEEL HOUSING

FLYWHEEL STANDARD SHIFT

CPL 8413 or 8412

BUILD DATE JULY 2003



250 H. P. @ 2900 RPM - 5. 9 LITER

TURBOCHARGER - ECM - MANIFOLDS

STARTER: 12 VOLT - FLYWHEEL HOUSING

FLYWHEEL

BUILD DATE JULY 2003

CPL8226



305 H. P. @ 2900 RPM

5. 9 LITER

TURBOCHARGER

ECM - MANIFOLDS

SAMPLE SERIAL 57070038

STARTER: 12 VOLT

FLYWHEEL HOUSING

FLEXPLATE

BUILD DATE JULY 2003

CPL 8213
 
Andler said:
idles down at 3000 runs empty at 600 tows at 900 uphills with heavy load will go to 1200. seems to be working right.



Andler:



I'm not an expert here but two things in your posts caught my attention.



The first is your statement that 300hp and 275hp injectors are the same. I may be wrong but I have always thought, based on comments made by others, that 300hp injectors flowed more fuel than 275s. Can anyone say with certainty that I'm wrong?



The other comment that got my attention was the temps you posted. They are lower than I experienced with my '01. I'm suspicious of your pyrometer. After two engine failures I would try replacing the pyro or at least borrowing and comparing it with another one.



My '01 was a factory stock HO/6 speed with 3. 54 differential EXCEPT that Joe Donnelly installed 275 hp motorhome injectors at a TX TDR rally when the truck was relatively new. I just sold it to family members at 322k miles with the original engine. It never had a box or chip installed and is stock except for injectors. My EGTs always read considerably higher than you reported. Mine always ran at 800 to 1000 degrees at highway speeds with a trailer behind and a little headwind. Pulling grades it routinely climbed to 1300 degrees or higher. Pulling steep grades in the summer with high ambient temps my truck could easily peg the pyro at 1500-1600 degrees. I always backed out of the throttle pedal and kept the temp at around 1300. I probably pulled several thousand hills at 1300 degrees with no engine failures.



You didn't report a highly modified engine. One engine failure is very rare, two is almost unheard of. Something isn't right and I suspect your pyrometer.



Another thought: Have you pressure washed your radiator? As most TDR members know the crankcase vent tube on the Gen II trucks blocks the radiator coils and can cause excessively high temps.



Again, I'm not a mechanic and don't claim to be an expert but I don't know if any of the three engines you inquired about above with 2003 build dates can be retrofitted into your truck without modification. I think the wiring harnesses are different.



Harvey
 
FWIW,



I would tend to agree with the pyro being bad theory. The pyro on my truck is new and installed by Relentless Diesel so I know it was done right and works. I routinely run at 800-1100 at highway speeds and will steadily run at 1000-1250 while pulling. I back off once she its 1250. I was told our Cummins can hold 1350 degrees indefinitely. Accordingly, I stop the temp rise at 1250 as extra insurance.



As they say, so long as you have guages, running a box is no big deal. But if those guages aren't reading correctly, it's like running blind.



Sucks to hear that Cummins is gouging you.
 
i thought that was the reason i put the egt gauge in. seldom let it pass 1200 before we gear down or deaccelerate. engine temp gauge runs 190-200.

pyro is pre turbo. maybe i am just asking to much of these trucks. i am pulling a 40' gooseneck --not terrably heavy but do have a lot of wind resistance
 
I agree with your number seeming to be off. I have the same truck as another member mentioned. 01 HO 6spd 3. 55 gears. I have the Diesel Dynamic stage two injectors that pushes me well over 300 hp. With out the boost elbow I could climb over 1300 easily towing, never let it go over 1350. Now I hit 30-31 psi and can't get it over 1100 on the pre turbo pyro.



Why weren't you running a boost elbow? Those help tremendously in keeping egt temps down.
 
ThrottleJockey said:
Why dont you just bore and rebuild the one you have? WAYYYY cheaper than a new engine.



More fun, too.



This may be the way to go. You dont have to worry about finding a compatible motor with your truck. Also, might be an opportunity to build it up better than before. Could put a high performance cam in with a lobe for a mechanical fuel pump. Could fire ring the head, have the ports opened up, whatever. . Yeah, it all costs money, but should be better than before when its back together.
 
What about getting rid of the VP44 and getting the 305hp Common Rail motor?



Assuming the motor comes with all the electronics and what not.



It would definitely be a good opportunity to upgrade if possible.



Or heck, go back in time and get a 12 valve motor.



I personally would replace the pyrometer to be sure.
 
There is NO WAY those EGT's are correct. You could get higher than those easily with just the injectors. Now add the Edge EZ and guess what, no way those numbers are right. You cooked that motor man.
 
Shortshift said:
This may be the way to go. You dont have to worry about finding a compatible motor with your truck. Also, might be an opportunity to build it up better than before. Could put a high performance cam in with a lobe for a mechanical fuel pump. Could fire ring the head, have the ports opened up, whatever. . Yeah, it all costs money, but should be better than before when its back together.



Oh, yeah, Shortshift...



I forgot about the opportunity to add a mechanical lift pump! How cool would that be? :cool:
 
Spoke to Channing at Geno's about the pyro and gauge (Isspro) and he directed me directly to Isspro in Portland Oregan.

Isspro said to send them the gauge and pyro and they would check it for accuracy.

I have already told them melted down two engines so most likley they will find the gauge and pyro ok.

Anywhere else i could send to have them checked?
 
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