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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need exhaust valve spring tools

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Where would I find the tools to change the exhaust valve springs in my 12V without pulling the head?



Spring compressor, tool to inject air to hold valve closed, etc.



It has probably been posted here before but I can't find them.



Thanks for any help.
 
I don't know if they still loan or rent tools, but I went to Checker and borrowed a valve spring tool with no cost. You might try Autozone, They charge but refund your money on return. Be sure you get one that has the screw knob on top, not the lever. [ I believe Jim Anderson found this out the hard way] On 5 and 6 you need all the clearance possible to get it started right. To get enough squeeze on the tool, you might have to force down on the spring a little to get it tight enough for removal and install. I brought each cylinder to the top, in case, by chance, the valve decided to drop, none did, just use a little caution.

Marv.
 
Dito on the piston pop up... I couldn't figure out how they were keeping the valves up without air...



Basically bring the cylinder you are working on to TDC on the compression stroke and compress the spring. To make sure you have it... get the piston just before TDC and compress the spring so the the valve is in the cylinder somewhat, and then when you turn the engine over to pop the piston up to TDC, the valve you compressed will be pushed up by the piston... No question of it falling into the cylinder that way.
 
Thanks, I didn't think of renting the tool... ... . :eek:



Good to hear that just bringing the piston to TDC will hold the valve up enough, I wasn't sure about that.



Thanks again
 
I bought the Lisle compressor from Genos for $23 bucks, along with some other stuff since I was ordering. This was substantially cheaper than Napa, Checker, or the other auto parts places around BZ, MT. I ended up making mine into a "stubby" by cutting off the handle just past the first rivet and sliding the cover back on. This way it is easier to manuver around the fuel lines. I also took off the cam handle and used a longer bolt than what came with the kit and added a washer on top. Worked fine.



I didn't use air. Just rotated the piston to the top ... . just in case. No problems.



Make sure you have a magnet for the keepers. And cover the holes ... . just in case. I had one go airborne and never found it. Had to drive to Idaho Falls and scrounge around until I found some used ones at Sage Creek.
 
biggy238 said:
Dito on the piston pop up... I couldn't figure out how they were keeping the valves up without air...



Basically bring the cylinder you are working on to TDC on the compression stroke and compress the spring. To make sure you have it... get the piston just before TDC and compress the spring so the the valve is in the cylinder somewhat, and then when you turn the engine over to pop the piston up to TDC, the valve you compressed will be pushed up by the piston... No question of it falling into the cylinder that way.



If you have a valve drop in at all DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE! I would sure think, unless your a lucky lucky man you'll be bending a valve.



Up to TDC, remove the valve spring, install new and back together. THEN rotate!



My thought would be that the combustion chamber in/on the piston could catch the valve face/lip causing it to bend instead of slide up into the head.



Josh
 
dodgeguy44 said:
Just ordered the tool from Geno's, $23. 00.



Thanks everybody for the help.

Sorry I missed this. You'll wish you didn't order that Lisle tool from Geno's. What a pain. Although MLee mentioned it earlier. You don't want the lever type (Geno's sells this), you want a screw type. NAPA or KD Tool 2078. About $30. You'll probly end up cutting and modifying yours as Traildog did. Nothing against Geno's, but maybe they should start carrying the KD Tool.
 
#5 & #6 are a pain in the butt. So I unbolted the front 4 body mount bolts & jacked the body up about 4 or 5 inches. Made life much easyer. This way I hade plenty of room.
 
I didn't mean drop the valve completely into the engine... just enough to confirm that the piston is there... I understand your concern...





Geno's has a not that the valve compressor's handle can be released and a wrench used to turn it.



That's what it says. . I don't have one.



On Edit. . I mean to rotate the engine by hand... I doubt you'll bend a valve with a barring tool unless something else is badly wrong.
 
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By the way, there are some great instructions on the TST site. Also make sure you "screw" the larger springs onto the compressor a little. It'll work much better.
 
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