Need first gen driveline torque specs

[MidwestMotorman]

Well, some routine maintenance has now turned into a bunch of work. I started noticing a "ting" noise on my 90 when taking off. I crawled underneath to investigate and found the center ujoint on the rear shaft to be worn. I also noticed a trans crossmember bolt gone, my transmission output yoke loose, and my rear pinion seal seeping.



So... now my whole driveshaft assembly is laying in my flatbed and I need some torque specs. Anybody have a service manual that can give me the transmission output yoke nut torque on a 90 D350 auto without overdrive? What are the hanger bearing bolts torqued to? Ujoint retaining strap bolts? I removed everything under there by hand with a small 3/8 ratchet and a wrench, so I know things were not properly torqued or retorqued down after the trans rebuild.



I was lucky to see my pinion seal seeping. I started to remove the rear diff fill plug and noticed fluid bubbling out while I backed it out. As the plug came out an audible "HISSSSS" was heard, and the plug popped out on its own. I immediately checked the breather and found it plugged with dirt. I removed it, cleaned it out, and reinstalled it. This would be a good time to check your own breather and prevent a big repair bill. I think I was lucky to catch mine before the axle seals and pinion seal was trashed.



I am now going to install three new ujoints and will want to make sure everything is properly torqued down. Any help would be appreciated as my service manual has not arrived yet. I need to make a few hundred mile trip this weekend and want my rig in top shape. Thanks in advance!

 

[Grey Wolf]

I don't have the book for the '90 but here is spec's for the '93... ... .



Center bearing to support bracket 50 ft lbs.



Prop shaft to axle yoke 21 ft lbs.

 

[MidwestMotorman]

Thanks, and I still need the output yoke nut torque for the transmission. Mine is 2WD and does not have the sliding yoke on the front of the driveshaft, but has the yoke bolted on.

 

[JApplegate]

tight!. . i know that is useless but when i put my drive line back in i couldn't get a torque wrench on that small of a bolt so i went with blue lock-tight and pulled as hard as i could down on that little mextric wrench as i could.



not to take away from his question but i put my yoke on my new NV4500 and i drove one side in and got the keeper pin in but the other side won't go in far enough to get the pin in. any suggestions on what i should do or do you think i got something under the cap with the needle bears in it?

 

[Grey Wolf]

Hey MidwestMotorman,



The manual trans yoke has a value of 280 Ft Lbs for the the two wheel drive transmissions. It also advises to use engine oil or petroleum jelly on the seal surface before you install the yoke!



Have fun

 

[MidwestMotorman]

With these large ujoints, it is very apparent if you get a needle turned sideways under the cap. You will see an obvious gap where the cap grease seal does not meet the center of the ujoint cross.



My middle ujoint was overheated due to a previous ujoint repair. The ears were slightly bent in and the joint overheated due to the extra pressure. The grease smelled very cooked and looked like coal. The other two joints were also overheating due to lack of lube. The rear ujoint was also installed correctly with the grease zerk the wrong way making it impossible to grease unless the shaft was dropped.



Being my Dana 70 pinion is offset to the passenger side, the center ujoint bends down and to the side. It takes a lot more load than the other two.



Now I can get my rig together. Changing all three is easy, but you have to be sure to mark the centerlines and the grease zerk locations on the ears. Providing there is no hassles, all three can be done in under an hour. Thanks for the torque values!

 

[MidwestMotorman]

All my bolts were standard and not metric. The ujoint strap bolts are 5/16" size.