Need heater core replacement help

[firefighter_2000]

Heater core began leaking into the truck today. I'll be tackling this job soon. Does anyone have a step by step guide for the 4th gen trucks? Also, any helpful pointers from anyone who's successfully completed this before? Should I go ahead & replace the blend door motors? Temp sensors? Evaporator? All assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Craig

 

[Cummins12V98]

Good luck! Hope it's a HE!! of a lot easier than a 2nd gen.

 

[jgillott]

I'm going to be doing the evaporator on our 2010 here very soon. I found this video that is a pretty good guide on how to disassemble that dash assembly. I am planning on doing the heater core on mine when I do the evaporator. Probably not going to mess with the doors or actuators unless I see something when it comes apart.

 

[Newsa]

If the heater core has a slow leak, will a sign be that the in cab air filter is damp or wet?

I haven't checked my in cab air filter, but did have a low coolant warning on an interstate trip last month and just wondering what are the early symptoms so I can head off any issues before my Christmas trip.

Haven't noticed any wet carpet.

Edit. In-cab air filter not wet and carpet also dry

 

[Timd32]

Here are some things I found.

I like how it assumes the dash is already out.

But might have some different notes on here to supplement that video.

The AC evacuate and is also not in the beginning of that video, which is a big part as well.

Never done it good luck with your fix.

 

[firefighter_2000]

Here are some things I found.

I like how it assumes the dash is already out.

But might have some different notes on here to supplement that video.

The AC evacuate and is also not in the beginning of that video, which is a big part as well.

Never done it good luck with your fix.

Thank you again for saving the day Tim!

 

[Timd32]

That video is pretty well done. Between everything it's still quite the project.

Says labor time is 7.2. Note says not including AC work.

 

[Ozymandias]

If the heater core has a slow leak, will a sign be that the in cab air filter is damp or wet?

I haven't checked my in cab air filter, but did have a low coolant warning on an interstate trip last month and just wondering what are the early symptoms so I can head off any issues before my Christmas trip.

Haven't noticed any wet carpet.

Edit. In-cab air filter not wet and carpet also dry

Well a bad smell of coolant would be the first indicator, second would be coolant dripping out of the drain tube.

Wet filter, not so much as it is before and above the core.

 

[firefighter_2000]

Well a bad smell of coolant would be the first indicator, second would be coolant dripping out of the drain tube.

Wet filter, not so much as it is before and above the core.

With mine, I never smelled coolant or found it dripping out the drain. Happened to notice fluid in the passenger floor mat. Checked and found that it was coolant. I’m sure this failure has absolutely nothing to do with the coolant flush a couple of thousand miles back.‍

 

[Newsa]

Well a bad smell of coolant would be the first indicator, second would be coolant dripping out of the drain tube.

Wet filter, not so much as it is before and above the core.

Good info, thanks. My nose has trouble identifying this new OAT coolant smell, but my wife will probably smell it. Maybe hot coolant is easier to smell than ambient temp?

I think maybe the problem a couple if weeks ago was that we went from 99 F degree Florida weather to 50 degree morning weather in Western NC mountains. And when I started in the morning the truck was parked nose up on a steep grade. The low coolant warning was only momentary and went away after we started moving. Maybe the sensor was exposed due to the steep grade. I added coolant anyway and it probably blew out the expansion tube as we drove.

 

[Ozymandias]

@Newsa i had once a heater core fail in a Semi, the smell was really bad. And the windscreen also almost instantly had an oily residue on the inside above the louvers.

 

[Newsa]

Not so humid of a day and no water nor coolant came out of the drain tube. Thanks for alleviating my concerns, ozy.

 

[cerberusiam]

Replace blend doors and evaporator or you will be doing it again. Motors are pretty solid, no real reason to do them unless OCD demands it.

 

[firefighter_2000]

Replace blend doors and evaporator or you will be doing it again. Motors are pretty solid, no real reason to do them unless OCD demands it.

I went ahead & ordered a new evaporator & expansion valve, as well as the actuator motors. Hopefully the doors are good.
Craig

 

[RamVenture]

Just found out from the shop my 2012 2500 evaporator is leaking, and needs replaced. I figured I should replace the heater core at the same time. I just installed the Geno's air filter kit. I did notice the recirculation (outside /cabin air) door (looks more like hood than a flapper) didn't appear to move and was in the mid open position. I didn't think too much of it. Watching the Motor City Mechanic evaporator replacement video (link below) that truck had the same problem. If the recirculation door isn't working seems its either the door or actuator. Since the door didn't move, I'm guessing the actuator is the problem. It may be best to replace both. Where would I find the recirculation door? Looking online, I see Blend Door USA makes aluminum blend doors, but they are big money ($315 for complete kit). Anyone know where else I could order blend doors from? Any other items I should replace while the dash is pulled off. Hoping to not have to do this again.

Part 4/4: 2009-2015 Ram trucks A/C evaporator and recirculate housing - YouTube

 

[Ozymandias]

Mopar or Blenddoors USA - for no money you want to do that job twice.

 

[Topzide]

Replaced evap and heater core on my 01 1500! What a PITA! If you're going in, do all that you can while there. You DO NOT want to have to go back in there again if you can help it. My evap was the issue that had me diving in. Since dash needed to be pulled, did the heater core while apart. If you're needing blend doors, like @Ozymandias said, you want the best to avoid going back in! Allow plenty of time and TAKE your time. Good luck with the repairs, helps to have another ride!

 

[RamVenture]

Thanks for the helpful tips. Did you guys use Mopar evap and heater core replacements? I can get GDP ($51 evap) or Mopar ($253 evap) cores from Rock Auto, GDP and few others are about 1/5 the cost of Mopar. Is there a big difference in quality on these types of components? The truck isn't a daily driver so I could take on the work but looks like a PITA job and it's 100 degrees here in AZ. The shop said they recovered the freon and would get me a quote for the repair. If it's reasonable I may just have them do it. The tech said he needed to check but was somewhere in the 8 to 10hr job. If I want the blend doors done I'm thinking it'll be more shop time $$$. The shop does a lot of work on big rigs. May also need to look around for A/C shop that's familiar with this job and could do it quicker for less otherwise time to bust out the tools. I have no experience working on the A/C system which gives me some hesitation tackling this job, but my understanding is if the freon has been recovered it should be safe to work on the system? Once I got everything put back to together, I could take it to a shop and have them charge the system?

 

[petersonj]

but my understanding is if the freon has been recovered it should be safe to work on the system?

That is correct. If you do take on the challenge, be sure to immediately seal the open ends of the refrigerant lines well when you disconnect them. This will not only keep out dirt, but will also keep out water vapor entrained in the surrounding air from entering the lines.

Also, one benefit of doing the repairs yourself will be that you will take your time, which will result in less collateral damage and a better inspection along with better repairs.

I replaced the heater core on my '02 truck 5 years ago myself and I am glad I did the work. I modified and fixed a few other things along the way.

- John

 

[jgillott]

Thanks for the helpful tips. Did you guys use Mopar evap and heater core replacements? I can get GDP ($51 evap) or Mopar ($253 evap) cores from Rock Auto, GDP and few others are about 1/5 the cost of Mopar. Is there a big difference in quality on these types of components? The truck isn't a daily driver so I could take on the work but looks like a PITA job and it's 100 degrees here in AZ. The shop said they recovered the freon and would get me a quote for the repair. If it's reasonable I may just have them do it. The tech said he needed to check but was somewhere in the 8 to 10hr job. If I want the blend doors done I'm thinking it'll be more shop time $$$. The shop does a lot of work on big rigs. May also need to look around for A/C shop that's familiar with this job and could do it quicker for less otherwise time to bust out the tools. I have no experience working on the A/C system which gives me some hesitation tackling this job, but my understanding is if the freon has been recovered it should be safe to work on the system? Once I got everything put back to together, I could take it to a shop and have them charge the system?

I used GDP from Rock Auto when I did my evap core and heater core. Fit perfectly.