Need help/ on relocateing lift pump

[pwr2tow]

This is the fourth lift pump in less than 40,000 miles and I want to relocate the pump back by the tank on the frame rail.

My question is what size is the fuel line and what size is the line from the pump to the fuel filter.

I want to run original line from tank then cut line as it comes out to the frame rail, attach pump, then run rubber line to line that runs into the fuel filter. In other words I need the fuel line size and the line size of the line between the pump and fuel filter. This will put the pump back about 6-8 feet and we all know electric pumps like to push rather than pull fuel.

Are the two lines the same size. I will take the sizes you guys give me and get a fitting that fits in the fuel pump and attach rubber lines to that.

I am hopeing this will keep the pump running longer.

I am also thinking about installing a auxillary tank in truck bed and hooking fuel lines in to that, this way I would have gravity feed from the tank to the lift pump and then the pump could push the fuel the rest of the way. Hopefully after moveing the pump back closer to the tank will be enough and I wont have to put in an auxillary tank.

Ron

 

[MikeR]

The fittings I bought were from Parker Fittings,and the thread size was 12mm x 1. 5. The line size is 3/8ths. All you'd need is three fittings and enough hose for in between.



-Mike

 

[pwr2tow]

Thanks Mike,

Is that inside or outside diameter. Are both lines 3/8ths (I haven't looked yet). I wanted to use the line in the fuel filter as that already has the bend in it. Useing this I will only need two fittings for the pump.

Where can I find the rubbler hose line and is there a special type for diesel.

Where did you buy the fittings.



Any body know of someone with this set up and does it increase the longivity of the pump. I guess it would still be easier to change the pump in that location than in the original place.



Thanks again,

Ron

 

[Bigsaint]

Ron, if you want to use the rubber fuel line, get yourself some 3/8" ID line that is rated for fuel, that will slip right over the existing hardline and you can secure same with hose clamps. My first Mallory was set up this way before I swapped it all out to the braided SS line and it worked fine. Consider placing a good flowing filter that stops down to 40 microns or so before the lift pump, it's good preventive medicine and should help to prolong the life of the pump. That's about all you can do to help the pump, moving it back and adding a pre-filter. Like you said, at least it will be easier to access if you have another failure. Hope this helps !!!



Scott W.

 

[rubberneck]

hey big saint, how did you adapt the stainless an lines to the one coming from the tank?? is there an adaptor fitting, or did you just hose clamp it on?? Also,did you run stainless braided line from the outlet of the mallory all the way to the factory filter body, or did you adapt back to the factory line. im thinking of duplicating your set up with the mallory and the prefilter, my pressures are in the toilet with just the ez and dd3's, and santa brought me a pm3 comp for christmass, so i know i need more fuel. any hints on the pm3 comp, things you would do again (as far as install or whatever) how you still liking the bd5's, how is smoke controll, im thinking the pm3 will give me more than i can use anyway (definitely until i get a turbo) but you never know when i might need more. thanks phil

 

[Bigsaint]

Phil, I adapted to the rear hardline using a Earl's compression fitting, which then goes to a male -AN to -AN adpater, to the braided hose end (female). Runs a short legnth to the Earl's screen filter (male -AN fittings on both ends), which then adapts to the Mallory using a -AN female coupler and a 3/8" Npt to -AN fitting at the inlet to the Mallory. Coming out of the Mallory going towards the fuel filter it goes like this... 3/8" Npt to -AN fitting (male) to the braided hose end. At the filter head it goes from the braided hose end to a Earl's pressure port fitting (-AN male at one end/ hose end (female) at the other, which is again linked with a male -AN to -AN coupler, to a Weber adapter, which screws into the filter head and replaces the exisiting banjo bolt there. At the bottom of the fuel filter I removed the banjo bolt and went with another Weber adapter to a swept 90 degree Aeroquip elbow to another pressure port adapter to the braided line, which then runs the short distance to the VP44 and adapts via another Aeroquip 90 degree elbow and Weber adapter, thus removing the last in-bound banjo bolt and allowing for a smooth flow of fuel. Hope this makes sense. If you don't want to do the leg work hunting down these fittings, give Brandon a shout at his shop (209) 578- 1850. He helped me with my initial upgrade to the lines and can set you up if you wish. You can also find them on-line at either Jegs or Summit.



I see that you already have a good clutch, I think the addition of the EZ box and the TST will be pushing your turbo to it's limits, so I'd think about a new turbo before you jump into the step 5 injectors. Piggyback the EZ to the TST by going like this... TST into the Map plug, EZ to the TST Map and then the OEM to the EZ plug, works great.



I can't say enough for the BullyDog step 5 injectors. I still have not dynoed since their install but can say that they rock pretty hard in the ETH. So much so that I very seldom use the TST, the EZ and step 5's are enough for me as a daily driver. I use the TST comp. box for play only. The smoke isn't much worse than those stage 3 injectors ( I ran with the BD step 3's and the EZ until June of this year, then I upgraded my lines and added the TST and the step 5's). Smoke control is regulated by the go pedal, nail it with low boost and you will completely obscure the traffic behind you. If you run the rpm's up while accelerating, the smoke isn't bad. Colder weather really makes a difference, hot and humid days equal some smoke no matter how you drive, but once the turbo spools up they are smoke free and powerful. Be sure to up grade to either modified banjo bolts or Aeroquip elbows before you try the 5's, they suck alot of fuel.



One last note on the TST Comp. box. You will notice a heavy shutter when you let off the go pedal in levels 7-9, common for most of us using the Comp. box. I'd avoid those levels for a daily driver and try a somewhat lower setting for day to day use, it's real hard on the VP44 IMHO. Hope this helped !!!



Scott W.

 

[rubberneck]

scott, thanks yeah, that helps alot, so, it appears you have pressure ports both pre and post filter, correct? i am going to stop by brandons shop tomorrow, still trying to decide on the pump to use, i like the idea of the mallory being a georotor design, but i have heard some good talk about the summit pumps. then again, i have a paxton kamikaze high pressure pump in the tool box off of my injected off road car (similar to the aeromotive chris is running) i may just try that thing out. later phil

 

[DCavanagh]

K&N

Ron...



Sorry i dont have any lift pump advice however, if you still have the K&N for sale i will gladly buy that!. My email address is -- email address removed -- . Thanks, dan

 

[fox]

rubberneck, if you heard good of the summit pumps, let me adjust the ratio!

I bought one of their pumps and when it arrived I noticed it was plastic but used it anyway. Well, after installed it was over fueling/ over pressure the system. Something like 30 lbs. , so I took it apart and found it had an extra spring in it laying sideways so the thing couldn't regulate.

It was on a car several years ago.

I'd recommend name brands like mallory, carter holley.

Have a good day.



fox

 

[Hemiville]

rubber hose for fuel??

Is it true that you must use diesel fuel line and not just gas line, as the diesel will eat up yhe rubber? Just something I heard.

 

[pwr2tow]

Hemiville,

Yes that is true, cummins has it or just about any tractor supply store, or implement dealer.

Ron

 

[Bigsaint]

Phil, you are correct, pre and post ports for FP monitoring. I have the Autometer Ultralite on the cowl (mech. gauge) for pre-filter psi's and the SPA post filter. If you only want one, go with post filter so that you know exactly what the VP44 is seeing. I decided to go with two gauges because 1) I wanted to be able to accurately adjust the Mallory at idle to my desired psi's and 2) I always wanted to mount a gauge on the cowl for more shock value . Brandon's a good man and he will set you up with all the goodies. If you decide on the Paxton pump, just run a return regulator with a line going back to the tank. I plan on doing this to my truck in the spring, regardless of which pump I'm running. Have fun and shake B's hand for me, someday I'll get out there to meet him in person.



Scott W.