Need help with 98’ brake rotors

[JHastings]

Hi all,
Looking to see if there is a good write up on putting in new brake rotors on my 98’ 12v. I know they are different from earlier and later models. Has this job been accomplished in one of the back issues? Also, any recommendations on rotors? I installed hawk pads a number of years ago and they worked well for me.

Thanks,
Jamie

 

[Stox5225]

The entire wheel unit bearing needs to be removed as the wheel studs hold the caliper and hub together. PITA for sure. You’ll want to use a press.

 

[rotohead]

Used to do them myself but the last job I took the new rotor and hub to a local brake shop. They charged me $30 to press and true up the rotor to the hub. Well worth the money to avoid that PIA.

 

[JR]

Whatever you do don't drive the studs out if you plan to reuse them. Yes, its been done many times but is not the preferred method. Likewise, don't pull the studs back in using the lug nuts and an impact . It will most definitely stretch the threads to the point of degredation. Again, people do it and get away with it (sometimes) with a stack of washers but it's not the correct method. Lisle makes a tool with a bearing for this method if you don't have access to a press, which is the best method for both removal and replacement.

 

[Stox5225]

Might as well do the unit bearings while you’re there ... pricey, but it’ll save you later down the road. They should come with new studs.

 

[JMcCoy]

Keep it simple:

1) Pull the hub/rotor (drink beer)

2) Bang the studs out with a drift (drink beer)

3) Swap rotors (drink beer)

4) Bang the studs back in with said drift (be sure they are fully seated and don't wack the threads) (drink beer)

5) Reassemble (drink beer)

6) Re-tighten wheels after test drive (ONCE YOU HAVE SOBERED UP and maybe a week or so later

You will in no way damage rhe studs by hitting them with a drift. Like stated above, don't use the nut to pull them in. It usually does not seat properly and may stretch the threads. I would spray the whole thing down with penetrator the night before. Good luck

 

[JHastings]

Ok sounds good. It doesn’t sound fun. Any suggestions on rotors?

 

[GrantP]

Ok sounds good. It doesn’t sound fun. Any suggestions on rotors?

I've been very happy with the powerstop stuff. Not the drilled/slotted ones, just the plain rotors. I've had them on multiple vehicles and never an issue. Nice and quiet and no dust.

 

[JHastings]

Ive been reading some other posts and seems like if I’m going to be in there, I might as well do unit bearings, ball joints, rotors and pads. Should I do u-joints too? None of this stuff has been messed with in the past 160k maybe ever. Pickup has 230k on the clock. If so recommendations on types/ part numbers?

Unit bearings: Sks or Timken?
U-joints: spicer sealed?
Ball joints: Dana or spiced greaseable or not?

Do I need seals too or just be real careful so the axle shafts don’t crush them when removing axles shafts?

Thanks

 

[GrantP]

Ive been reading some other posts and seems like if I’m going to be in there, I might as well do unit bearings, ball joints, rotors and pads. Should I do u-joints too? None of this stuff has been messed with in the past 160k maybe ever. Pickup has 230k on the clock. If so recommendations on types/ part numbers?

Unit bearings: Sks or Timken?
U-joints: spicer sealed?
Ball joints: Dana or spiced greaseable or not?

Do I need seals too or just be real careful so the axle shafts don’t crush them when removing axles shafts?

Thanks

I had to do u-joints with a lot less mileage than yours on my 97 so I'd say that's not a bad idea. I proactively replaced the wheel bearings with Timken, no issues. I'm starting to think any ball joint discussion becomes a "which transmission is best discussion/argument". I'm running Carli's on my 06 with the AAM axle but either Dana or Spicer (technically I think those are the same thing) should be fine on yours if you think they need to be replaced. I'd certainly check them for slop before I put in the money and effort though.
Don't worry about the axle seals, just be careful. You may have some seepage for a few days from the R&R process but it will clear up. I had the axle shafts in/out many times and never had an issue with the seals.