Need help with a Gasser!

[Idually]

Hey guys. Yep, it's a gas engine, but at least it is a Dodge.



Here it is: 1982 Ramcharger 4x4, 318, 4bbl(factory), NEW(reman)engine (1000 miles at most), brand new carb (Edel 1400, 600 cfm) new Trans (A727) as well as any other bits that I could replace.



Someone had been in this one before I got it, so I'm wondering.



The Question... Is there ANY chance that the electrical(engine) system can affect the "PERFORMANCE" of this engine? To qualify this... it starts fine when cold(choke working properly) and runs o. k. Gas mileage is in the toilet(carb, I'm sure), but power is bad(again, the carb), but I'm wondering if any "ELECTRICAL" items actually affect performance? In otherwords... if it starts, it's o. k. ?



Something in the wiring backwards(Original harness)? Something missing? CTS switch?



Any help is greatly appreciated!



BTW! I know I Should have put a CTD in it. My bad. Bad Andy, Bad.



Thanks in advance.

Andrew

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by Idually

The Question... Is there ANY chance that the electrical(engine) system can affect the "PERFORMANCE" of this engine?

Yes it can.



How are the plugs (condition/proper gap), plug wires, cap/rotor, coil. Does the distributor have points/condenser, (If so, what shape are they in, improper gap or burnt) or is it electronic? Distibutor timing off. Condition of any of the electrical conections of any of the above (corrosion)?



Carb need to be rebuilt? With the reman, did they install a new timing chain, was it installed properly?

 

[Idually]

Condition?

Well... New Dist, plugs, etc. . CONDENSER??? More, please.



Carb is new, Brand new. Plugs. . proper gap(and good plugs, too). Cap, Rotor. . All new.



Electronic Ignition... Yes.



More...

 

[Extreme1]

Is the timing set correctly? Is the wire to the ignition supplying 12 volts? Was the truck built with an electronic ignition or was it an upgrade?

 

[B.G. Smith]

Well the 318 ain't gonna burn the tires off, got an 89 in the back yard. If it has a vac. spark advance, make sure it is hooked up correctly and working. If you have a vac. gauge, try setting the timing using the gauge with the engine idling, just move the dist. until you get the highest vac. Some harmonic balancer have been known to rotate on the rubber mounting and throw the timing off. I am not familiar with the carb you have but make sure the secondary barrels are opening up on hard acceleration. bg

 

[JLEONARD]

Lift the hood and watch it run at night... . this will let you see if any of the wires are arcing and shorting out.

Jay

 

[Philip]

NEW(reman)engine

flat top or dished pistons?

New Dist

Mopar or parts store? Check the air gap on the pickup assy. If it is to wide it will cause performance. Check the advance weights and see if they are working right. Also have it recurved for a faster advance. Mopar makes a good performance replacement dist.



Is it hooked up to ported vacuum or full manifold vacuum?

brand new carb (Edel 1400, 600 cfm)

What color are the plugs running? If they are white step the jetting and metering rods up a little. I might be running to lean.



Is this running the stock POS intake manifold?

 

[bmoeller]

Re: Condition?

Originally posted by Idually

Well... New Dist, plugs, etc. . CONDENSER??? More, please.



Carb is new, Brand new. Plugs. . proper gap(and good plugs, too). Cap, Rotor. . All new.



Electronic Ignition... Yes.



More...

Points- #ad




Condenser- #ad

 

[bmoeller]

Found this info here- http://www.seanet.com/Users/clauded/tuneup.html



#ad




Pardon this rather clumsy drawing but, I think it captures the essential simplicity of the ignition systems we are dealing with. The ignition switch, coil and points make a series circuit with both the points and ignition switch acting as switches. The ignition switch is activated(closed) by a turn of the key while the points are opened by the cam on the distributor. They close by spring pressure. Assume that the ignition is "on" and the only switch in this circuit is the points. When they are closed, current flows from the battery, through the ignition coil and through the points to ground(or from the ground to the battery, depending upon polarity). This current flow generates an electromagnetic field in the coil which suddenly collapses when the points are opened. The collapse of this field induces a very high voltage, low current electrical pulse in the winding of the coil connected to the distributor rotor and ultimately, the spark plug. That's it-that's your ignition system-full stop.

 

[TowPro]

For a Dodge with Electronic ignition from the 70's and 80's, This drawing is missing something. Between the ignition switch and the coil is a ballist resister (on a dodge its a white porcilin thing) When your in the crank position you will have full battery voltage to the coil, in run you will have a reduced voltage. This is a known problem with the Dodges. Most times you would get an engine that would start, but as soon as you let the key return to the run position it would stall.



On a points ignition in a GM, you have 2 wires going to the positive side of the coil. One is battery voltage when cranking, the other comes from the starter. This wire from the starter is a resistive wire which lowers the voltage to the coil when in the run condition. On a HEI gm ignition, you just have 12v going to the distributer, no voltage drop needed.



Not sure about Fords, never did like them enough to look into "what makes things work"

 

[Hammer]

An 82 small block mopar will not have points and condenser due to electronic ignition. So here are a few things to look over and see if you may have missed anything... .



-Make sure ALL vacuum lines are properly placed and hooked up,along with not being cracked or sliced.

-Recheck your timing and see when you tightened down the distributor that it didn't retard some when you tightened it.

-Since this is a 82 and should be emissions controlled(i. e. -air pump equipped & catalytic converter)has any been removed and not plugged or is the cat blocked due to its age?.

-The new carb comes baseline jetted and may need to be jetted to suit your needs. Do you know what jets and metering rods are in it from the factory,lean conditions will kill hp and mileage.

-When you pulled the motor did you pull the transmission?. I know someone who pulled the transmission when they did theirs along time ago and lost some transmission fluid when doing it. Upon the re-install they never checked ALL the fluids which led to poor performance due to transmission slippage and then ended up in a rebuild for it also.

-Does it idle rough at all?. If so spray some either along the intake(along the top at the head)manifold while its running(idling) and see if the intake manifold is leaking seeping air. If it revs up the intake manifold is leaking and the gaskets need changed.

-ALWAYS carry a extra ballast resistor with you,its a Mopar fact they go bad for no apparent reason and cause many headaches.



Remember to keep in mind not all re-builders or rebuild companies are the same. Some when assembling a rebuild will have the rotating assembly tighter fitted than others. The more it takes to turn over the long block the longer it will be to "loosen up" and cost you performance and mileage also till it does.



I never worried about mileage or performance when a rebuild was first installed as after proper break in we would then look into that. Make sure all fluids are at proper levels and the temps are in line,break it in and then go after stuff out of line,but,its your ride. hope this helps a bit... ... ... ... ... Andy

 

[yyzski]

One other thing to consider is that the truck may have been equipped with the Lean Burn system . Part of that includes a distributor that doesn't have vacuum advance.



Check the distributor - it should only have one lead coming from it (two wires - black rubberized connector with one male, one female 1/2).



If it has two of these leads, then you will need to replace the distributor with one that has vacuum advance. Set up the timing & go.

 

[AKAMAC]

I'm with vaccum leak/timing issue. Be sure to check brake booster for leaks. Mike

 

[bmoeller]

Originally posted by TowPro

For a Dodge with Electronic ignition from the 70's and 80's, This drawing is missing something. Between the ignition switch and the coil is a ballist resister (on a dodge its a white porcilin thing)

You're right, hadn't noticed. Gives you the general idea though. I didn't draw it up.



Ford gasser engines (at least the ones on the 901 tractors) have a ballast resistor also.

 

[moparguy]

Please accept my apologies if I missed this in a prior post, but, first thing I'd do after checking the obvious things already pointed out is swap the ECU (electronic control unit, rectangular box about 4"x 6"x 2" with a 5 or 6 prong plug plugged into it, may be on the firewall, drivers side or inner fender, drivers side)with someone else that has one that's known good. Or spend 20 bucks at a auto parts store and try a new one.



My experience is that at least half the time that's the culprit.



Good luck, RJR