Need help with gauges....

[XcumminsX]

Hey guys I just got my EZ and want to run it but i still dont have my gauges in yet. I just ordered a 3 gauge a-pillar and the 1 pod steering wheel. Id like to wire up all my gauges before that gets here so all i have to do is run it threw them and get things going



My question is where can i find a diagram on how to set up my



Boost Gauge

Pyrometer

Transmission temp

Fuel Pressure



Id like to have this all wired before my pods get here. I also still have to drill and tap my ATS manifold for the pyrometer.



Thx



Nick

 

[XcumminsX]

 

[CLAYTON]

What happend to your quadzilla pod? I thought that you were going to mount them in the cubby?

 

[ThomasLawrence]

I also still have to drill and tap my ATS manifold for the pyrometer.

Ya mean you didn't drill, tap, then plug it before installing the manifold?



As for the wiring itself, this document has some info:



http://i.b5z.net/i/u/265866/i/2003_Dodge.pdf



Along with the +12V for the gauge lights, the gauges will need a separate +12V wire that's switched with the ignition. I tapped the red wire from the cigarette lighter for this purpose. Run this to each gauges' +12V terminal. You can use the same ground wire for the gauge ground and the gauge lamp ground... tie them all together and ground as indicated in the instructions above.



You'll also run the signal wires to the electric gauges (trans temp, single wire from the temp sender, and pyro, two wires from the thermocouple).



Finally, there's the two connections to the mechanical gauges (fuel pressure and boost) - these tubes will come from the intake manifold and the fuel pressure isolator.



Can I ask another dumb question? If you're going to be running either an Edge or a TST box, both of which will give you at least boost and pyro readings, why are you duplicating those two readings with separate gauges?



I can understand a boost gauge, since the readings off the MAP sensor top out at about 44psi, but why a separate pyro, especially since the boxes will need their own thermocouple so they can auto-defuel?



-Tom

 

[SRadke]

Originally posted by ThomasLawrence



Along with the +12V for the gauge lights, the gauges will need a separate +12V wire that's switched with the ignition.

Not all gauges require a key switched +12 volt wire. The trans temp will but my DiPricol boost, pyro and fuel pressure did not.



-Scott

 

[XcumminsX]

The quad 3 dash holder was too hard to see... I drive in the city alot and looking down at the gauges can get me killed. You know that A-hole that is going 80 in a 45 at 3 pm traffic weaving in and out... . THATS ME



Nick

 

[XcumminsX]

And hey guys i found something good for the boost, trans and pyro step by step. All i need now is the fuel pressure gauge step by step on setting up the tubing and installing it



Thx for the links



Nick

 

[SRadke]

Dave has a link to excellent install instructions on this site:



http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/gauges



-Scott

 

[ThomasLawrence]

Scott,

Not all gauges require a key switched +12 volt wire. The trans temp will but my DiPricol boost, pyro and fuel pressure did not.

Sorry 'bout that - I meant to say that just the electric gauges would need this. The DiPricol pyro doesn't use a constant +12V source? I thought any gauge measuring millivolts needed a reference voltage. My autometer pyro does.



Or does the thermocouple (because of the much higher temps) put out enough voltage to drive the gauge directly, whereas something like a trans temp sender doesn't?





Nick,

All i need now is the fuel pressure gauge step by step on setting up the tubing and installing it

Not much to this, really. Get a tapped banjo bolt (Geno's Garage, Piers, etc. ), replace the fuel supply banjo on the injection pump, and run a tube from the tap to the isolator. Take another piece of tubing, fill it with antifreeze, and run it from the other side of the isolator to the gauge. Bleed both lines, and you're done. Your isolator must have come with some kind of instructions?



Or... hold off on the fuel side of the isolator until you get your FASS installed - the FASS has a port on it for a gauge.





Scott (again) ,

http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/gauges

That's the same link



-Tom

 

[SRadke]

Oops! Sorry about doubling up the link. I didn't actually open it becasue it takes a year and a day for me to pull down PDF's.



As for the pyro I don't know. Even with higher temps you still onlt get millivoltage and with it no current so I don't know where they get the power to move the needle. The DiPricol pyro's are very fragile and the needles float around very easily but all I know for sure it that it doesn't require a 12 volt power source.



-Scott

 

[PGoble]

Gauge Alternative

Nick,



I didn't want the gauges mounted on the pillar. I had that my 2001 and was tired of staring at the lights at night.



I installed a DiPricol EGT gauge where the cigarette lighter originally was, and moved the cigarette lighter over to the passenger side which actually works better for plugging in the radar detector (You don't have to string it across the face of the radio).



For my other gauges, I made a custom mount out of aluminum and them had it powdercoated flat black to match the drink holders. It mounts down where the pencil holder is (on six speeds) and holds my boost gauge, fuel pressure gauge, and Air pressure gauge (for the Bags). It also houses the switch to turn on the air compressor and the bleeder valve. I wanted these three gauges down low so I don't have to look at four gauges at once, especially since these three gauges are not used very much (unless there is a problem, or you need to air up the bags).



Since you work in a machine shop, you should be able to manufacture something similar without any problems.



I have attached an image. Hope this helps.



Peter

 

[PGoble]

another pic

 

[Buzzer]

Very, very nice!! Really a clean install.