Need input on Cold Start Problem

[Bernie]

I am sorry, I am re posting this. I am no closer to a solution.

History
-2003 truck, HO, auto, stock except for air intake and filter
-About 197k miles
-I have had it about 110k of those miles. No major repairs (except wear parts in the drive line and suspension)
-Lately, it does not want to start when cold. I have had to plug it in for any weather close to or below freezing.
-Over the past few years, it only needed to be plugged in during sub zero temps.

-The really odd thing is, I have left it at the airport (with temps in the teens and twenties) and it has started with out a problem. I run the heater grids a few cycles, and it starts.

-One thing to add, it seems to need longer cranking all of the time (even warm) then it used to. Not much, but a second or two.

-Once it is running, it runs fine. No driving problems, seems to still get good mileage, and idles fine.

Trouble Shooting
-I have verified plenty of oil, good voltage, and grid heater is working.

Questions
-Why all of the sudden has my truck developed a dislike of barely cold weather. It used to start fine down to zero, and only needed to be plugged in when it was sub zero. Why, with 20 degree nights and 30 degree days, has it become a problem?
-Why, when it dropped to zero during the time it was at the airport, did it start then and not now?
-Why is the crank time to start longer

Relevant info
-Stock lift pump. I have not replaced it in the 110k miles I have owned the truck. Not sure if it had been replaced by the previous owner.
-Stock injectors. I have not replaced them in the 110k miles I have owned the truck. Not sure if they had been replaced by the previous owner.
-Fleetgaurd fuel filter, changed every 15k miles. It is due, and I will be doing that this weekend with an oil change.
-I have a new lift pump, and I will be putting it in this weekend as a precaution.

Injectors?
-I don't want to replace injectors if mine are still good. It drives fine and gets good mileage, so I do not (at this tim) suspect my injectors.
-What is the best way (with out removing them) to test the injectors?

Shop?
-I may need some professional help. I live about an hour south of Buffalo, NY. Any suggestions for shops that would be familiar enough with the 5. 9 HPCR to trouble shoot with out throwing parts at the problem?

 

[BDaugherty]

Your symptoms sound exactly like mine. You need a rail pressure gauge to watch during cranking. If it doesn't build rail pressure, then you need to find out why. I bought the rail cap from Geno's and the return isolator from Glacier and then spent a couple evenings retorquing jumper tubes and testing return flow. I never could get any decisive results even through my injectors were so worn that I could only build 800 psi during cranking at 50 degrees. It took about 1100-1200 psi for mine to start. With new injectors, it starts so fast I cant even see the rail psi coming up. I fought and resisted replacing the injectors. I even pulled them and had them tested. New nozzles brought the return back into spec, but after putting them back in they just weren't quite right. Once I installed a new set of Bosch Motorsports 50HP, it was night and day. It ran better across the board in addition to the extra power. 18 degrees is the coldest morning we've had since the install, but it fired right up.

 

[JJPage]

Here is a really good list of procedures to follow for your symptoms.

Dodge Cummins diesel diagnostic information. Repair and troubleshooting information for Dodge diesel pickup trucks courtesy of Oregon Fuel Injection

 

[LNaugle]

definetly need to have injector bypass test done at reputable shop... sorry cant help with shop i am in colorado, however... I have also seen the over psi valve or cascade valve , same thing, on the common rail leak also causing same problem. which is starting to be lil more common on 03 & 04 trucks. maybe some of our east coast friends have an idea on a shop?