Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need Instructions To Remove Stock & Install New SBC Clutch

[Dave M]

Dave,



We have a 97 and the way I remember it, you have to push a retaining cap down and give it a 1/4 turn, (it locks onto two projecting pins) then the spring pushes the stub shaft out and that is it. Might have to just reach into the toolbox and get creative.



Make sure you pack a clean towel into the open tower to prevent foreign objects from getting into the gearbox.

The pic shows I have pried the shift ext off the the shifter/ball assembly which now is in the shift tower. The book says to remove the shift tower which has 10 bolts and is pretty long. I don't think I can get to all the bolts without lowering the transmission.



Do I need to remove the sfit stub and then the tower?



Help guys... . I'm not sure what to do. My shift tower is not a little square thing but is pretty big and long.



Thanks,



Dave

 

[Dave M]

Well, My son removed the stub by useing 2 screw drivers and pushing down and turning ccw while I was contemplating how to do it. Took him 5 minutes.



I figure the shift tower will stay on and I can drop the transmission enough to clear the tower. If the tower needs to come off someone chime in.



I'm slowly plugging away. Pic shows a rag in tower hole where stub was.



Dave

 

[Bob V]

The tower does not have to come out. The design was changed in the '98MY and you can take the newer tower off with 4 bolts. You may find that will have to bend up the floorpan a little or twist the transmission for cleance. Jacking up the front of the engine will also help. I always took the transfer case seperate, but I know others do not. You should also LIGHTLY greese the input shaft splines and the hub where the TO bearing rides.

 

[Dave M]

The tower does not have to come out. The design was changed in the '98MY and you can take the newer tower off with 4 bolts. You may find that will have to bend up the floorpan a little or twist the transmission for cleance. Jacking up the front of the engine will also help. I always took the transfer case seperate, but I know others do not. You should also LIGHTLY greese the input shaft splines and the hub where the TO bearing rides.

Good to hear the tower stays. I'll try jacking up engine. I assume nothing needs unbolted like motor mounts. I'll try jacking under damper.



Thanks for the input. It's what I needed at this point. I'm gonna try to leave transmission on jack and move it back rearward while I work on fly wheel and clutch. Don't think this will work due to weight etc. . Not sure if I'll pull transfer case or not.



Dave

 

[MMeier]

If you haven't done so yet. . remove the TC, one less awkward thing to worry about.

 

[Dave M]

If you haven't done so yet. . remove the TC, one less awkward thing to worry about.

I'm removing the linkage, wiring, vacuum lines etc now. I haven't found the bolts for the TC yet but I'll try removing it.



Thanks,

Dave

 

[Bob V]

Should be 6 nuts that remove the TC (IIRC)

 

[Dave M]

Should be 6 nuts that remove the TC (IIRC)

I'm glad I cleaned everything of oil and grease and dirt before starting. I believe I found them faceing forward pointing toward front of truck above the transmission mount. I assume I won't need to replace seals to pull the TC if they are not leaking.



Thanks,

Dave

 

[Bob V]

I'm glad I cleaned everything of oil and grease and dirt before starting. I believe I found them faceing forward pointing toward front of truck above the transmission mount. I assume I won't need to replace seals to pull the TC if they are not leaking.



Thanks,

Dave

I never had to

 

[MMeier]

I'm glad I cleaned everything of oil and grease and dirt before starting. I believe I found them faceing forward pointing toward front of truck above the transmission mount. I assume I won't need to replace seals to pull the TC if they are not leaking.



Thanks,

Dave

Shouldn't have to, just use some black silicone between the two units is all my guys ever have done when we were swapping around transmissions.

 

[Dave M]

Shouldn't have to, just use some black silicone between the two units is all my guys ever have done when we were swapping around transmissions.

Great. I got front driveshaft off and will start rear in morning. Not sure how the first rear shaft comes out but I see the back rear just unbolts. I'll check book in morning for removing the shaft behind transmission. Need to look for some silicone too.



Dave

 

[MMeier]

Just undo the shaft at the rear diff and drop the center carrier bearing, 2 nuts hold that in place IIRC. Keep the 2 shafts together that way. Be careful not to drop any caps off the rear U -joint when you have it off or you will be picking up all the needle bearings from inside.

 

[CSnyder]

I always remove the driveshaft from the rear axle then wrap tape around the bearing caps to prevent them falling off. Then you have 4 bolts on the center carrier bearing. You will need a wrench to hold the tops. Then the shaft slides right out of the transfer case. Have a spill pan ready to catch the fluid unless you drain it first as it will spill fluid.

 

[Dave M]

I always remove the driveshaft from the rear axle then wrap tape around the bearing caps to prevent them falling off. Then you have 4 bolts on the center carrier bearing. You will need a wrench to hold the tops. Then the shaft slides right out of the transfer case. Have a spill pan ready to catch the fluid unless you drain it first as it will spill fluid.

I have been trying to remove 2 bolts that hold the carrier bearing to the bracket... . what a pain... those bolts are inside the bracket with little room to turn a wrench. I have one off and am gonna tackle the other with my air wrench. The 4 bolts you describe must hold the bracket to the bed/frame. I'm gonna keep trying on the other bolt and will try the 4 bolts if this doesn't work. Geez... this is a pain... and I still got lots to do. . :{



Thanks,

Dave

 

[Dave M]

Got the 2 rear driveshafts off as an assembly. The next pain is my MBRP 4 in exhaust. The end of the downpipe has a rod that is in the transmission mount. I guess the downpipe has to come off. It's a pain to remove the turbo end. I used band clamps but it's still hard to remove.



Dave

 

[Bob V]

IIRC I think that you can undo the mount and it will slide off the rod

 

[Dave M]

IIRC I think that you can undo the mount and it will slide off the rod

Thanks Bob. I'll try that.

 

[Dave M]

Got the transfer case out and now struggling with replacing the slave cylinder. Having trouble getting the clutch pedal off the master cylinder crap. Geez... getting frustrated. I still have the cross member to deal with.



Dave

 

[Dave M]

Took exhaust off but really didn't need to. Pulled the transmission mount bracket with exhaust bracket off after jacking up transmission. The transmission bracket then came off exhaust hanger. My son removed exhaust and bell housing bolts since I figure it had to come off to get new flywheel on. Son took off cross member... he said it came out real fast and easy. A few wacks up on it and it was out.



transmission with bell hosing attached will come off in morning. I'll too tired to go on. My 2 sons may finish removing it tonight... if my other son comes home soon... while I take wife to dinner. Nice to have help.



Thanks all for help. I'll post again in morning.



Dave

 

[Dave M]

Crank Rear Seal Leak or transmission?

My 2 sons pulled the transmission last night and the pics here show the carnage. I definately have a leak into the clutch. It appears to be black sooty oil residue everywhere.



Looks like truck is down for a few days. Was hoping to do Xmas shopping this Thursday since we haven't done anything and with 8 kids it usually takes some time. Any suggestions on how to go about pulling the crank seal? I think that is what is leaking but it could be the transmission seal.



Quad 4x4 has a kit with some tools for around $140... . Man that sounds expensive for doing a rear seal. What have you guys done? I have a slide hammer with attachments that might work or I might borrow something from work.



Anyone have some tips on doing the crank seal? What about the transmission input seal? What a bummer... . I didn't need this just before Xmas. I just replaced both front rotors and brakes a few weeks ago at about $450. And this job up to now is $900+. Sorry to complain. Again... this is the first time for me doing the clutch on this truck and doing these seals.



Edit: The pics don't do justice to how black everything really is. The pics really get washed out and lightened from the flash. The black marks on pressure plate and flywheel in the first pic are greasy streaks. The second pic shows an oily leak below the bolt holes for flywheel. Kinda looks lick its from the lower lips of rear seal. I also noticed that when I removed the clutch Slave/master the resouvoir it was nearly empty. I don't think that would leak into the clutch but it explains why I was grinding gears due to the weak clutch engagement.



Any ideas appreciated. Thanks again, Dave