Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Need Lower EGT's

[cojhl2]

TGIBBs if you are responding to my message re 1200 deg I did say Pre turbo not post. You are absolutly correct on post turbo it should never be over 900 deg at the most. .

 

[JKinney]

I know its only guessing, but I would have to validate that the egt guage is actually working properly.

 

[TMRoper1669]

No, I don't. Call your local cummins dealer.

I will give them a call! Thanks. Any info on a good air intake? Anyone have any ideas? BHAF or AFE or Volant? Whats the best, which one will it help?

 

[Tcolesanti]

I have a Scotty Air II that I really like. Has a UNI filter in it.

 

[TMRoper1669]

Thanks, The Probe is post turbo it was installed that way (local shop). I have read plenty about how it should be pre turbo, but havn't had a chance to change yet. The last time i got on a good grade with about 10,000lbs it got up to about 1050*As for the engine temp it got between the last line an 240* right in the middle so i did back out of it. I have come to understand to drive it according to the guages, although i have a trip planned to drive up the same grade with a heaiver load, about 14K so i am trying to make sure there is nothing else i can do to get it cool. other then drive by the guage. If thats what i should do thats what i will do.

 

[cojhl2]

You are asking the engine to produce more power than you should at 1050 post. 900 should be absolute tops as far as im concerned.



Ive driven class 8 with pyros on either side and it makes no difference so far as you know what the hi values should be. Pre turbo should not run over 1200.



What you are measuring is an indication of the energy not producing rotaional power. It is always a percentage of the total power fed to the engine. Diesels will attempt to produce power to the point of destruction. It is up to the operator to determine that the engine is doing all it can to maintain speed and force. There comes a point where the speed msut be decreased (The force stays the same) so that the total power input to the engine will be less than what will destroy the engine.



The water temp is merely passive and at 240 is prob the max value you should see.



If you are convinced the engine is not outputing the power it should and yet these temps are running that hi then your engine is not tuned correctly or at least not running to the design efficiency.



Always run to the gauges. RPM, Pyro, boost are to be watched in that order.



Pyro and boost are related. If you have no heat(temp) then the boost will not exist. If you are passing a lot of heat to the turbo then boost will be hi.



Also if there is not a power requirement to the engine the pyro will get cold and boost will be non existant.



There are limits to the boost but I think if you keep the pyro where it should be the boost comes out ok.



Anyway this is the way I drive em!!

 

[DieselLady]

Just a quick note. In your signiture it says "Ranch hand bumpers front and rear". I don't know what the front bumper is like but I have heard some guys complain that some aftermarket bumpers can change the airflow into the radiator and intercooler. If there is any possibility of this being the case I could see how both EGT and water temps could get very high. I also agree to downshift and bring the rpms up enough to move more air through the engine. Just a thought.

 

[TMRoper1669]

I have Thought about the bumber being a cause of the miss direction of air although it is designed with expanded metal in the front for the grill area, i thought about testing to see it that was it but that would involve removal of that 500lb bumper and well no, so i am not sure but i was thinking that too. Maybe i could mount a external fan out on the bumper to blow air in the grill intresting to see about that.