Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Need mechanic recommend for VP44 replacement. SE Idaho

[IdahoJim]

I'm having some hard starts when hot issues. The truck has 285,000+ miles on it with the original pump. I spend a lot of time out in the sticks, so figure it's probably a good idea to
change out the VP44. Anybody have a good shop they would recommend in southeast Idaho? Or anywhere in Idaho for that matter, or possibly northern Utah?
Many thanks,
Jim

 

[Killer223]

Mike at Mopar1973man.com.
he's in new meadows. but hes' the #1 man on second get trucks. with out a second thought that's where i'd take it.

lol his name happens to be Mike Nelson.

 

[IdahoJim]

Many thanks, Killer. I'll give him a call. Would be nice to find somebody closer, but we'll see. It's about 350 miles over there from here. But, I do want somebody that knows what they're doing.
Jim

 

[JR]

285,000 miles has to be some kind of record for a original VP! I have seen them go close to that with the upgraded bushings but the OEM pumps were notoriously short lived due to a multitude of sub par parts.

They are very simple to change out. Basic tools is all that is needed, with the exception of the puller which can be bought for around $40. There are some very good step by step instructions on Blue Chips website. He's the VP guru.

 

[IdahoJim]

That sounds good, JR. I'm a decent mechanic, just wasn't sure I wanted to tackle the job. I think I'll go that route...might as well dive right in....LOL I've watched all the stuff on these pumps, and
wondered when mine would finally die. Glad it got me back home from the Wyoming back country, Thursday. So, the next question is this...are there differences in remanned pumps? Is there a
particular pump I should buy? Or avoid? As always....any help gratefully accepted. Oh yeah...is there a special puller I need? Where do I get one?
Thanks again,
Jim

 

[JR]

Opinions vary on where to buy one, but make absolutely sure you are getting a new FPCM (electronics on top of the VP). Bosch does not mandate a new FPCM, only that it passes the bench test so as long as it does you may be getting someone else's unit with unknown hours and heat cycles. Unfortunately this is a question many try to dance around, I've even seen where a certain online store advertises them as new when in fact they are reman FPCM's. Alot of people squawk at Blue Chips prices but they are the only company that breaks down which parts they replace inside the VP. They also publish their warranty returns which are stated to be less than 2%. I doubt very many other rebuilders will come forward with that kind of info, if any. For those reasons, along with the fact that both Chip and Doug will talk you through any problems whether you buy their pumps or not is why I chose to buy one from them. I'm sure there are other reputable builders but they are the only pump I have had to buy so cant comment on anyone else.

You can buy the gear puller through Genos.

https://www.genosgarage.com/product/cgp010/tools

If you buy a pump through Blue Chip they will send you instructions with some good shortcuts to save time on the remove/install and a puller to use. You simply return it with the core VP when you are finished.

 

[IdahoJim]

Thanks, JR. I'm not sure what I'll buy, yet. I'll give those guys a call Monday.
Jim

 

[KATOOM]

Yes, I'm sure Mike can help you out. Good guy.....

 

[IdahoJim]

I decided to do it myself. I'm going to buy the Premium pump from Blue Chip. That'll have the new computer on it. I was going to go with the Standard Special, but decided I care more about reliability
than I do extra power, or a bit more mileage. I appreciate the help.
Jim

 

[KATOOM]

Do ask if you need any help. Even though its a pretty straight forward job, there are some tricks and things to look out for.

 

[IdahoJim]

Many thanks! I always go to school on Youtube videos before I tackle a new project. Blue Chip also has really good info on the job.
Jim

 

[SnoKing]

When I did mine, I did not remove the 4-6 injector lines. They are on the side of the pump next the the block and can be just pushed aside towards the block and the pump will slide out. Same going back in. Watch the key like a hawk.

SNOKING

 

[IdahoJim]

Yup...got all that.
Jim

 

[KATOOM]

The most important thing is to make sure the shaft key is pointing upward before removing the pump so it doesn't accidentally fall into the timing case. A cool trick is after using the gear puller to pop the timing gear loose, you can us it again to push the VP out of the hole. Making sure all bolts and mounts are removed first.....

Then making sure the key is seated properly and correctly in the shaft cog before tightening the timing gear otherwise you'll smash the key edge. At the point it must be removed again and a new key ordered.

 

[IdahoJim]

Yup....one video i watched, the guy used a center punch to "upset" the key a bit to make it a snug fit in the slot. Not a bad idea, along with making sure the key is on top.
Jim.

 

[SnoKing]

New shaft and interior gear surface should be cleaned and dry before putting it back together. I think my instructions from MWFI said to use alcohol. SNOKING

 

[Bromiley99]

Since no one has mentioned it, if you have never replaced the tappet cover gasket it's a good time to do it. The first VP I ever did I did not change it an 3 months later I was going back in just for that gasket!!! Since then I change that gasket every time I got a pump off.

 

[IdahoJim]

Many thanks, guys. I hadn't seen anything about cleaning the gear. I'm going to replace the cam sensor while I'm in there, Guess I'll be doing the tappet cover gasket, too. I adjusted the valves
yesterday....had a couple too loose, and a couple too tight, but nothing completely out of spec.
Jim
.

 

[SnoKing]

MWFI provided a new overflow valve also. Said you had to install a new lift pump to have a warranty on the new injection pump. SNOKING

 

[IdahoJim]

My lift pump is fine. I have a pressure gauge, and did the big line pump relocation job years ago. Have 10-15 lbs all the time.
Jim